Front shock coilover removal and install (BP-51)

[prharper]

These steps can be used with any aftermarket shock or OEM.

This is based on swapping out existing OME BP-51 front shock coilovers on my 2018 LC. I have a new set and will send off the existing BP-51's for a rebuild. Nothing wrong with the ones on truck but they have over 50k miles and have reached their recommended service level.

I did this install without a lift and I did NOT touch the LCA camber adjusting cams or suspension toe adjusting plates. If you do it this way, an alignment is not required.
The install is easier if you drop the LCA and loosen the camber and toe adjusting bolts, but you will need to get an alignment after the install. I don't have easy access to alignment shops that know our trucks with aftermarket suspension / UCA's.

The Toyota FSM for Front Shock Absorber Installation does not require loosening LCA camber and toe adjusting bolts for OEM shocks. My procedure below is based on the Toyota LC 200 FSM with additional steps (e.g Disconnecting lower ball joint attachment and minor tweaks) along with OME BP-51 fitting instructions.

Let's get started

• Loosen lugs on both front wheels
• Chock rear wheels
• Jack up front, place jack stands on frame
• Remove KDSS valve cover. 12 mm on 3 bolts, 1 needs socket extension
• remove grease from 2 valve fittings (I keep it heavily greased to prevent seizing and rust)
• loosen each KDSS shutter valve (3 full turns, no more) using 8mm socket (prior LC 200 years use hex)

• Remove front skid plate. Note: I have aftermarket skids and did not need to remove.

• Take photos for reference on shock reservoir mounting and stainless steel hose
• Loosen 2 bolts front stabilizer bracket (LH) - 17 mm
• Loosen bolts front stabilizer bracket (RH) 17 mm
• Remove Front Stabilizer link 2 bolts - (LH)
  • 19 mm nut at lower control arm
• Remove or loosen Front Stabilizer link 2 bolts - (RH)
• Disconnect ABS wire
  • 12 mm bolt
• Disconnect brake line bracket
• Disconnect lower ball joint attachment, 2 x 21 mm bolts. The torque on these is 221 ft lbs and loosen is opposite of tighten - set wrench to tighten.
• 
• Disconnect Steering knuckle (LH) - This was a PITA
  • Remove cotter pin
  • Loosen Castle nut 24 mm, leave on a few top threads to protect threads.
  • Grab a BFH and smack the knuckle, avoiding the nut and boot.
  • After it freed up, the bolt would spin when trying to remove the castle nut. Had to use a jack on the bottom of the knuckle to apply pressure to get the nut off.
• Remove the bottom nut - front shock with coil - LH. Note: leave bolt in
  • 22mm bolt
• BP-51 reservoir
  • Remove clip on panel
  • Remove reservoir mounting bracket (2 x 12 mm? )
• Loosen the 4 nuts on top using 17 mm. Note: remove 2, leave front two in for now
• Force LCA down - pry bar or your foot - white rotating the coilover
  • Use a long pry bar on the lower control arm
  • Place the pry bar between the frame and LCA.
  • Push downward.
• After bottom shock is out of the LCA, remove remaining top 2 x 17 mm bolts
• Rotate the reservoir hose forward and downward as you pull it out.

​

Installing new shock coilover (LH)

• Set pre-load if needed
• Install coilover
  • Insert top of shock first
  • Install 2 x 17 mm bolts, hand tighten
  • Force LCA down, slide in bottom of shock
  • install other two top bolts 17 mm (loosely)
  • install reservoir in bracket and tighten
  • install lower shock bolt and nut - 22mm
    • apply antiseeze on non-threaded long bolt
• connect steering knuckle (LH)
  • grease non threaded part
  • torque 21 mm to 81 ft lbs
  • install new cotter pin
  • the bottom of the knuckle to apply pressure to get the nut off.
• connect ABS wire
• Install lower ball joint attachment, 2 x 21 mm bolts. The torque on these is 221 ft lbs and tighten is opposite of loosen- set wrench to loosen. You can't get a torque wrench and socket on this with wheel on so do now.

Go to RH side

• Remove shock and coilover following above steps.
• Install shock (RH) - same procedure as LH side above
• connect steering knuckle (LH)
  • grease non threaded part
  • torque 21 mm to 81 ft lbs
  • install new cotter pin
• connect ABS wire
• temporarily install the stabilizer link with bolt (bottom part) - RH
• temporarily install the stabilizer link with the nut (top part) - RH (You will need a prybar or two)
  • Torque the nut (top) to 94 ft lb (leave bottom loose)

• Install lower ball joint attachment, 2 x 21 mm bolts. The torque on these is 221 ft lbs and tighten is opposite of loosen- set wrench to loosen. You can't get a torque wrench and socket on this with wheel on so do now.

Go back to LH side

• temporarily install the stabilizer link with bolt (bottom part) - LH
  • May need to jack with block of wood
• temporarily install the stabilizer link with the nut (top part) - LH
• Note: Above is per FSM. I found it easier to install the link, top part with the nut first, then the lower part of link
• Tighten 2 x 17 mm bolts front stabilizer bracket (LH)
  • Torque to 64 ft lbs
• Tighten bolts front stabilizer bracket (RH)
  • Torque to 64 ft lbs

• Set BP-51 Compression: 5 Rebound: 7 on each installed shock using OME BP-51 adjustment wrench

Note: every truck is unique based on setup, weight etc. Do your research for ideal settings for your truck configuration.

Prepare to lower truck

• Install skid plate if needed
• Install front wheels
• Lift front, remove jackstands
• Torque wheels 97 ft lbs
• Stabilize suspension - Push down on vehicle several times, each side.

All below torque with truck on ground

• Tighten front shock (lower) LH
  • 133 ft lb
• Tighten front shock (lower) RH
  • 133 ft lb
• Tighten 4 upper bolts in opposite directions (see diagram)
  • 33 ft lb
    
• Tighten front stabilizer link bolt (bottom part) - LH
  • 100 ft. lb
• Tighten front stabilizer link nut (top part) - LH
  • 103 ft. lb

Go to RH side:

• Tighten 4 upper bolts (see diagram above)
  • 33 ft lb
• Tighten front stabilizer link bolt (bottom part) - RH
  • 100 ft. lb

KDSS

• Close valves (3 turns)
• apply grease to valve body face and bolt heads
• install cover

 

[kcjaz]

Nice work! Avoiding an alignment is worth some extra effort for me at least as my shop is in a pretty rural location in anyone nearby that could do an alignment I wouldn’t trust

 

[prharper]

Nice work! Avoiding an alignment is worth some extra effort for me at least as my shop is in a pretty rural location in anyone nearby that could do an alignment I wouldn’t trust

Yep. The last shop that did my alignment before we met at Cruisers on the Rocks said I would need new lower control arms when installing new front shocks and they would have to cut off the cam bolts to remove the LCA's.... I was proactive and picked up new front LCA's and mounting hardware during a Toyota online parts sale late last year just to have on hand in case - depending on shop or self install.

 

[dudemancool1904]

Small detail but on my ‘19 you don’t have to remove the KDSS cover, there’s an access hole for the two bolts you can easily get to you with a short extension.

 

[prharper]

Small detail but on my ‘19 you don’t have to remove the KDSS cover, there’s an access hole for the two bolts you can easily get to you with a short extension.

Correct. In my case, I wanted to remove the cover to visually inspect valve body face and make sure it still had the grease on it that I re-applied a few seasons ago.

 

[prwillard2]

These steps can be used with any aftermarket shock or OEM.

This is based on swapping out existing OME BP-51 front shock coilovers on my 2018 LC. I have a new set and will send off the existing BP-51's for a rebuild. Nothing wrong with the ones on truck but they have over 50k miles and have reached their recommended service level.

I did this install without a lift and I did NOT touch the LCA camber adjusting cams or suspension toe adjusting plates. If you do it this way, an alignment is not required.
The install is easier if you drop the LCA and loosen the camber and toe adjusting bolts, but you will need to get an alignment after the install. I don't have easy access to alignment shops that know our trucks with aftermarket suspension / UCA's.

The Toyota FSM for Front Shock Absorber Installation does not require loosening LCA camber and toe adjusting bolts for OEM shocks. My procedure below is based on the Toyota LC 200 FSM with additional steps (e.g Disconnecting lower ball joint attachment and minor tweaks) along with OME BP-51 fitting instructions.

View attachment 4100135

Interesting, thank you for sharing this picture and writing this thread.

The FSM makes it look like the bolt going between the front stabilizer link LH and the KDSS arm goes with the bolt head on the passenger side and the threaded side towards the driver side frame rail with the bolt closest to the drivers side frame.

Can you take a picture of your installed KDSS arm if possible? Want to make sure my installer knows to install it correctly.

 

[prharper]

Interesting, thank you for sharing this picture and writing this thread.

The FSM makes it look like the bolt going between the front stabilizer link LH and the KDSS arm goes with the bolt head on the passenger side and the threaded side towards the driver side frame rail with the bolt closest to the drivers side frame.

Can you take a picture of your installed KDSS arm if possible? Want to make sure my installer knows to install it correctly.

EDIT - The upper bolt is inserted from the back toward the tire and then add the nut and hand tighten. FSM calls for doing the bottom first and then the top. I struggled getting that top bolt all the way through, it was just barely getting hung up (millimeter or two) even though a brass drift of similar diameter went all the way through.

After 30 mins or so, I switched gears. Removed the lower section from LCA cradle, put bolt thru the top, then used a pry bar to get the lower link back into the cradle and massage it a bit to line up and insert that bolt and hand tighten (no nut on the back, screws into LCA threads).

 

[prwillard2]

View attachment 4100437

View attachment 4100438
EDIT - The upper bolt is inserted from the back toward the tire and then add the nut and hand tighten. FSM calls for doing the bottom first and then the top. I struggled getting that top bolt all the way through, it was just barely getting hung up (millimeter or two) even though a brass drift of similar diameter went all the way through.

After 30 mins or so, I switched gears. Removed the lower section from LCA cradle, put bolt thru the top, then used a pry bar to get the lower link back into the cradle and massage it a bit to line up and insert that bolt and hand tighten (no nut on the back, screws into LCA threads).

Thank you!

Looks to be torqued to 81ft/lbs correct?

 

[prharper]

Thank you!

Looks to be torqued to 81ft/lbs correct?

Nope. Tighten with all wheels on the ground. LH side below:

• Tighten front stabilizer link bolt (bottom part) - LH
  • 100 ft. lb
• Tighten front stabilizer link nut (top part) - LH
  • 103 ft. lb

Edit - adding image

 

[prwillard2]

Nope. Tighten with all wheels on the ground. LH side below:

• Tighten front stabilizer link bolt (bottom part) - LH
  • 100 ft. lb
• Tighten front stabilizer link nut (top part) - LH
  • 103 ft. lb

Thanks!

 

[aLwAyS4SaLe]

what kind of grease are you applying to the KDSS valves, any pictures of the Valves, just want to see for reference. does no one make a KDSS valve cover to prevent water and rust?

 

[prharper]

what kind of grease are you applying to the KDSS valves, any pictures of the Valves, just want to see for reference. does no one make a KDSS valve cover to prevent water and rust?

It’s two bolts or hex screws depending on model year. Use any thick grease (eg bearing, marine).
It has a cover for physical protection not liquid.

 

[aLwAyS4SaLe]

Thank you. I have the 2020, so it’s going to be the 8mm bolts.