Front Heater Repair and Restoration

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Green Bean

SILVER Star
Joined
May 9, 2021
Threads
144
Messages
2,196
Location
Texas Coast
After a recent coolant flush and replacement of all of the heater hoses, some deferred maintenance issues surfaced. First, the rear heater core had to be sent off for repair after one of the inlet nipples broke off. After that was sorted, I noticed a drip on the transmission hump near the boot for the floor shifter. :mad: Sure enough, it appeared that the front heater core had developed a small nagging leak. Thankfully, aftermarket front heater cores are readily available. Search "HVAC Heater Core APDI 9010346." For example, Rock Auto has them. Mud vendors such as City Racer, Cruiser Corps and Cruiser TEQ also have them. I purchased this one from Cruiser TEQ.

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It is a simple process to remove the front heater from the vehicle. 4 easily accessible M8 bolts with captured nuts. Since I had just refilled the cooling system with fresh coolant, I didn’t particularly ant to drain the system again. I closed the heater valve under the hood and used a small catch basin while carefully disconnecting the two hoses going to the front heater. There was minimal coolant spillage. Removal of the 4 firewall bolts, disconnect the defrost ducts and the heater comes right out. Once on the workbench, the driver’s side of the heater box can be separated by removing 4 small sheet metal screws. Then the heater core can be slid out.

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As far as I can tell, this is the original front heater core. If so, it survived almost 54 years!

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The old heater core had some glued on padding on the ends and sides. I replicated these with 1/4" thick high density neoprene foam that I had left over from another project. Neoprene Foam

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The inside of the heater box would have benefitted greatly by media blasting, but I don’t have access to a blast cabinet. So, I just sanded by hand and treated everything with de-greaser and metal prep before a re-spray with Steel-It. Reassembled everything and installed. I opted to use stainless screws instead of the black ones.

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Awesome write up and pic's. Bonus part numbers and sources; you the man!
I understand buying a new one, but you should practice repairing that old one. I mean its already broke what do have to loose - a little time.
 
Awesome write up and pic's. Bonus part numbers and sources; you the man!
I understand buying a new one, but you should practice repairing that old one. I mean its already broke what do have to loose - a little time.
Thanks. Typical for me, this project derailed a bit. Toward the end, as I thought that I was on the verge of wrapping things up, I should have been quite suspicious because up to that point things had gone pretty smoothly. Things usually do not go smoothly. That's about when I noticed that the driver's side defrost tube had become disconnected to the upper duct. Uggh. This meant removing the instrument cluster to get good access to reattach the flexible duct. So after completing that diversion, I've learned to test things before buttoning up. Behold, the right dash-mounted turn signal wasn't illuminating. Since that light is right next to the duct, I assume that I jarred something loose. Back inside the dash... I finally traced the disconnected bullet connector and all was good until it wasn't. The solder that connected the ground wire to the indicator light gave up. So had to resolder. Anyway, I finally got everything buttoned back up, and put everything away. I'm ready for a break.
 
Since I had just refilled the cooling system with fresh coolant, I didn’t particularly ant to drain the system again. I closed the heater valve under the hood and used a small catch basin while carefully disconnecting the two hoses going to the front heater. There was minimal coolant spillage. Removal of the 4 firewall bolts, disconnect the defrost ducts and the heater comes right out.
Thanks! I was wondering about this and I need to swap out the lower housing. Mine, when I addressed it, is missing a small tab on the bottom I didn't notice that keeps the lower vent springs secured in place. When I used mine as it got cold, the springs went with path of least resistance, and I had to reach under the unit to manually operate it. I'm ready to swap as I will ever be. But the fully belly of newish coolant was my deterrent (well there are others).
 
Glad to hear that is not just me that has little jobs spiraling into a days work.
After fitting the heater, I now have the radiator out with a potential leak, the grill out for painting, and the toyota and diesel badges to restore.
Didn't have original demist hoses, so I fitted some 55mm flanges and pipe to mine.

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