- Thread starter
- #21
I did poke it and it was quite soft and easily deformed. I'm going to keep an eagle eye on it and borrow a bigger torque wrench. Mine only goes to 150lbs.
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I did poke it and it was quite soft and easily deformed. I'm going to keep an eagle eye on it and borrow a bigger torque wrench. Mine only goes to 150lbs.
If the leak is more active while parked on an incline, it may be the oil pan arch leaking.
my guess is that the front nut is not cranked to spec and that front pulley is walking out. Quite possibly too that the seal surface on the pulley is scored. Seen this many times. Lots of shops just air gun that bolt on. It is best to remedy this quickly as if that pulley walks too much it will eventually ruin the keyway and deform the crankshaft and then your SOL.
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- #24
I'm on it. I now have some good points to look for. Not sure I'll get to my knuckle job this weekend but may tackle some of these.
I'm not convinced the leak is coming from the Crank Seal.
Was the Oil Pump O-Ring Replaced?
Get a few cans of brake cleaner and determine the source of the leak.
Was the Oil Pump O-Ring Replaced?
Get a few cans of brake cleaner and determine the source of the leak.
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- #26
I'll put some fresh cleaner on it. I don't recollect ever having the oil pump seal done. We should start another side forum... IH8puddles. Thanks Hornd.
My .02. I bought a rig a few years back with a blown engine. Front seal was pushed forward, oil leaked out, wife saw pretty light on dash (oil light) and drove it for a few days before telling the husband. Was told that the seal was only a few years old, so I assumed faulty installation.
After taking it all apart, I found that the crank pulley (harmonic balancer -- whatever it is called) was cracked on the side toward the engine section and was therefore would be expanding on the rearward side. I can image that under load would expand some, thus creating pressure on the seal and pushing it out.
My point is every time I do a front seal now, I clean and look at that balancer quite a bit. Don't know if it applies to this case, but that is what I know.
After taking it all apart, I found that the crank pulley (harmonic balancer -- whatever it is called) was cracked on the side toward the engine section and was therefore would be expanding on the rearward side. I can image that under load would expand some, thus creating pressure on the seal and pushing it out.
My point is every time I do a front seal now, I clean and look at that balancer quite a bit. Don't know if it applies to this case, but that is what I know.
You wont need a torque wrench that goes to the correct torque, just use the gorilla method that most of us are forced to use. 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar + 2' cheater pipe. Stand on the driver side of the vehicle, reach high, grab the pipe and pull it down. That'll put more than enough torque on this bolt BUT, be sure to stop the engine from turning with that force. Having an assistant to help you out. 3/4" breaker bar + socket set can be bought from Harbor Freight for not much coin.
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- #29
Thanks, I was wondering about that, 304-325 is no joke. Since it's within "gorilla" specs I would assume the techs are close to it. I will see what I can come up with though as it may ease my mind. However I'm leaning toward other sources at the moment.
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- #31
Duly noted.
I use a HF torque wrench that goes to 300. I also use a pulley holder that makes the job easy. It bolts to the pulley and braces against the frame. Just did one today. Easy peasy.
Just a thought that someone else might be able to clarify. Normally the extended flange on seals like this runs on another surface to act as a first line seal and keep dirt from getting into the actual sealing surface. OEM pinion seals for example have the extended seal flange and it runs on the back of the pinion flange.
If this is the case for this type of seal on this engine then the crank pulley is not fully seated.
If this is the case for this type of seal on this engine then the crank pulley is not fully seated.
You haven't priced out a 400 ft-lb torque wrench lately!!
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- #35
Strange Update:
I had a "moaning" that I swore was the PS pump and once investigated ended up being the AC compressor. Pulled the belt and voila, no moaning. Since then.....No puddles or drips. I'm wondering if the strain or belt tension was too much and causing the leak or just a stupid coincidence. I'm going to keep watching and see what gives after I clean it up this weekend.
Yeah, $300 for a 400 ftlbs wrench was a bit off the chain. I'll take it to Toyota and have them retorque before I drop that change right now if needed.
I had a "moaning" that I swore was the PS pump and once investigated ended up being the AC compressor. Pulled the belt and voila, no moaning. Since then.....No puddles or drips. I'm wondering if the strain or belt tension was too much and causing the leak or just a stupid coincidence. I'm going to keep watching and see what gives after I clean it up this weekend.
Yeah, $300 for a 400 ftlbs wrench was a bit off the chain. I'll take it to Toyota and have them retorque before I drop that change right now if needed.
not likely. Most likely your compressor is just making noise. Your pulley does not look right. It needs to come off and seated correctly. If it is loose you are going to cause major damage to the engine if you just let it be.
Nope haven't I take it from work!)
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- #38
I can't recall how the seal looked prior and can't find any pics from that angle of another one. It seems to be sitting straight. What else could I look for to see if it's OK?
It looks like I need to pull the whole thing off again and do the oil pump gasket too. It will have to wait until I can take it to the dealer or a 2 hour drive to get an LC specialist to do it right. I'm not doing it 4 times in a year.
get under the car and get a 30mm socket and wrench on it. If you can turn the nut it is sloppy loose and it is going to cause damage to the crankshaft if you drive it.
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- #40
Hello again, I was investigating the oil pump seal and noticed that the harmonic balancer has some wobble and noise. (see video) Is the wobble OK, just doing its job, or a symptom of a bad install or bad part?
Link to video:
I'm new to wrenching, as mentioned and can't recall how it was prior to all this but can't recall that noise. Thanks
Link to video:
I'm new to wrenching, as mentioned and can't recall how it was prior to all this but can't recall that noise. Thanks