Front Break Job

[The Ox]

front break job how many 's is it?

can someone point me to a thread with steps and
maybe parts/tools i might need, i tried the search but couldn't
find much, sorry i'm 1/16th retarded or something


thx
Danos

 

[Cruiserdrew]

front break job how many 's is it?

can someone point me to a thread with steps and
maybe parts/tools i might need, i tried the search but couldn't
find much, sorry i'm 1/16th retarded or something


thx
Danos

Doing a "break" job is extremely easy. Less than 1

Doing a brake job in the front is for pads only, for pads plus new rotors, and for pads, new rotor, new studs, and repack wheel bearings.

Look for knuckle rebuild details, the first part of which is basically a brake job, sort of. It will give a good idea of the tools needed.

You need a FSM.

 

[Heartworm]

Be sure to get the special brake line wrench to loosen the hard lines where needed to remove the caliper. Don't take a chance with an open end wrench..you may luck out but.... NAPA prices are reasonable but OEM is not that much more through Cruiser Dan. If your brake fluid is dirty looking, it would be a good chance to change it out.

 

[ntsqd]

Now would be a good time to change it out anyway. Probably hasn't been done in a year. I know mine hasn't, and I know better.....

 

[lovetoski]

front break job how many 's is it?

can someone point me to a thread with steps and
maybe parts/tools i might need, i tried the search but couldn't
find much, sorry i'm 1/16th retarded or something


thx
Danos

Nobody on IH8MUD is retarded.

For starters, you need to let us know what you mean by a "brake job." As Cruiserdrew pointed out, it can be really simple, to pretty involved.

Do you mean replacing only the pads? Really simple.

Do you mean replacing the pads and rotor? That's a lot more involved.

Let us know the specifics, we can help.

 

[kenleyf]

Front Brake Job

If you are just replacing the pads and possibly a caliper it is a real simple job. The hardest part is bleeding the lines and that is made simple with a one man bleeder from Napa. I also "flushed" the entire system which was made easy with the one man bleeder. I used all OEM parts and they were not very expensive($63.33-John Hocker-Pads, Antirattle Springs, Clips, Pins.). I am not very experienced and I accomplished this.

I also did the rears. It was a little bit more involved but if you take your time and only do one side at a time it is not that bad.

Good luck and hopefully some more seasoned guys can give you the courage.

Kenley

 

[The Ox]

yeah i was just going to chage the pads and get the rotors turned, but from what ive read i'm going to go ahead and flush the system too, my buddy took his Rodeo to a brake shop and got charged $600 big ones for all four brakes, i did the lift and ps pump myself so i guess it shouldnt be too hard

thank mudders!

D

 

[lehiguy]

yeah i was just going to chage the pads and get the rotors turned, but from what ive read i'm going to go ahead and flush the system too, my buddy took his Rodeo to a brake shop and got charged $600 big ones for all four brakes, i did the lift and ps pump myself so i guess it shouldnt be too hard

thank mudders!

D

Be aware that Cruiser rotors don't have much excess that can be machined off before they are at the limit. You might want to get mentaly prepared to buy new rotors.

 

[rover67]

if you strip the brake line nuts use nice big vise grips to get them unscrewed. make sure the vise grips are hella tight.

 

[lovetoski]

Be aware that Cruiser rotors don't have much excess that can be machined off before they are at the limit. You might want to get mentaly prepared to buy new rotors.

This is very true. Suggest you measure your rotors to see how close you are to the limit. If I recall, 19mm is the limit. But, in the process of turning, they may have to take off more in some areas than others to make them true, so just being thicker than 19mm is no guarantee that you can get them turned.

So you need to think on your options:
A - just throw in some new pads, and let them wear to the rotors. Softer pads do this easier.

B - Replace the rotors. This requires that you remove the hub, as the rotor is bolted to the backside. At this point, unless you know the wheel bearings have been repacked w/in the recent past, you should just redo them. This requires a few seals and gaskets and a star washer.

Flushing the brake fluid is a very good thing to do. Two years is the recommended interval (I think).

 

[chicago]

The pads are the simplist pads I had EVER done.
Im basically one step up from a chimp.
IIRC,On my rig, in order to get the rotors off, you have to pull the hub assy. and at that point you may as well rebuild the whole shebang if it hasnt been done in a while...thats if its like my rig...

Chicago

 

[chicago]

OOPS!
Yeah...what lovestoski said.

Chicago

 

[The Ox]

thanks guys!

 

[jpeg]

Im basically one step up from a chimp.

chimps are pretty smart