For those who wheel harder than I do: What are the downfalls of MTS/ATRAC? Do I really need an e/air locker?

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Without starting a war over e-locker vs ARB, I will be really interested in seeing which locker you pick. I am on the fence for the rear in my 2004 TACO.

I'm leaning towards Harrop E-lockers. I've heard of a few failures, but I've heard of more failures on air-lockers. I think I might start with the rear e-locker and consider a front in the future. Maybe I'll be able to get a Black Friday deal. I'm in a fortunate situation where I have my stock pumpkin and extra 4.3 gear rings sitting on the shelf, so I'm confident that I can take my time assembling the rear diff around the locker.

I've also been considering just buying the 4.3 Toyota elocker built into a pumpkin out of Japan (41110-60B01). The rear diff w/locker cost shipped is about the same as just the Harrop e-locker. The downside, is that wiring is a bit more complicated, and I'd have to notch the rear axle, where it marries the diff. I believe this wiring has been accomplished many times in other Toyota's ( I just need to do a bit of studying) and I'm not afraid of notching the axle or modifying the gasket.

I have to admit, I'm very intrigued by the Torsen rear diffs too, but again, I'm not certain how much more traction control I'd get vs stock.

 

[dms]

Since you've got a taco, I'd hunt for a junkyard axle with the stock e-locker. I've used all varieties of lockers over the years, and electronic lockers are my personal choice (OEM Toyota or Eaton)

I have wondered about that. I should have done that before I switched out my rear springs.

 

[TimCFJ40]

I'm leaning towards Harrop E-lockers. I've heard of a few failures, but I've heard of more failures on air-lockers. I think I might start with the rear e-locker and consider a front in the future. Maybe I'll be able to get a Black Friday deal. I'm in a fortunate situation where I have my stock pumpkin and extra 4.3 gear rings sitting on the shelf, so I'm confident that I can take my time assembling the rear diff around the locker.

I've also been considering just buying the 4.3 Toyota elocker built into a pumpkin out of Japan (41110-60B01). The rear diff w/locker cost shipped is about the same as just the Harrop e-locker. The downside, is that wiring is a bit more complicated, and I'd have to notch the rear axle, where it marries the diff. I believe this wiring has been accomplished many times in other Toyota's ( I just need to do a bit of studying) and I'm not afraid of notching the axle or modifying the gasket.

I have to admit, I'm very intrigued by the Torsen rear diffs too, but again, I'm not certain how much more traction control I'd get vs stock.

I wouldn't waste time with a Torsen, it won't get you anywhere ATRAC or CRAWL won't. Without 100% positive locking, you're not going to beat ATRAC and Torsen isn't a true 100% locker.

 

[TeCKis300]

Without starting a war over e-locker vs ARB, I will be really interested in seeing which locker you pick. I am on the fence for the rear in my 2004 TACO.

As everyone has different use cases and needs, it's not necessarily a one is better situation.

The ARBs have a notably stronger locking mechanisms. If racing or hard off-road use are the goals, the robust ARB stand out as as the clear solution.

The Eaton is still a good strong locker but the pin mechanism is still weaker. Those wheeling without reckless abandon will find these great. It's proven to be more reliable. There's less in the chain to go wrong where it'd directly actuated electrically. Versus the ARB that needs electricity to power a pump, that is then switch by air.

Reliability and robustness as two different things.

I wish Eaton had a Direct Acting Locker for 200-series application. Best of both worlds.