Floor pan source and progress

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Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Threads
31
Messages
243
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
As I continue with the project, I am slowly getting closer to the rust removal phase. I have basically removed all the items that I want to remove at this point and want to do some of the rust repair while it is still on the frame.

What I have to repair is:

- rear sill (will replace with body on frame using the support bracing that previous threads have shown)
- both rear fenders (to remove the round led tail light holes and some rust). Probably won't replace the entire fender, just the areas that need it
- rear floor pan (bent and very pitted and rusted near the sill)
- front floor pans (very bad under the toolbox, center small hump area - pass side is marginal but may keep it)
- rear channel where the front part of rear pan meets the front pans (vertical piece) needs to be replaced.

I have searched various vendors for sheetmetal. I have found good quality replacements for the rear fenders and sill that match the same type as stock.

I have not been able to find a good source for the rear floor pan with the correct ribbing (short rib on the sides, not the loop of later pans) or the front floor pans.

I have an email to Heritage $$ on the floor pans. Anyone have a different source for these items.

Thanks as always for my endless questions.

I did get some more stuff done though. I restored the cracked and faded steering wheel. Looks very close to new now. I sent a bunch of parts out to plating and I am waiting on the used odometer to see if it will work to repair mine. Still can't get the damn overspray off the speedo though. Probably reinstall as it sits since I would probably ruin it by working on it some more.

I will make a plate to adapt the later filler neck to my earlier body.

Seems as though I have the early FJ40 brakes instead of the FJ25 single wheel cylinder type judging from the two hardlines that split at the wheel to front and back.

Steering box, column and shift backets are complete. Sourcing a turn signal switch and horn button (mine has a burn hole in it).

Restored the fuse box - dremel tool works wonders - and cleaned up the voltage regulator. I probably will not repaint it as I don't want to loose the stock markings on it with the part numbers, etc.

Fuel filter, air filter assembly, oil filter, and generator are finished. Blasted and painted the intake/exhaust manifold (intake is black, exhaust is cast iron gray) along with the thermostat housings (cast color).

All restored parts are getting marked, wrapped and boxed up as they are completed for later reinstall.

Once the body is off, I will clean, seal, paint the engine/trans/transfercase, replace the clutch and the parking brake (if required) then work on the axles. Suspension will get cleaned and painted, new bushings and shocks and reinstalled as stock.

I will post some pics of the plating when it comes back to see if anyone wants to add some parts to the pile I will send out later.

Wow, that was long winded. Happy because my other long term project, my 1970 Bronco with EFI 351W finally got new exhaust today and was able to drive it around for about an hour.
 
Too easy! You'll be done....next month?:)

You will probably find more rust than you anticipate, and it sounds like you can't just paint over it...like those doubling plates in the wheelwells the rear seats bolt to...

Heads up on the brakes and lines, they take an unusual fitting and tube, you may want to go to the later model brakes for parts availability...
 
Believe it or not, I soaked the knobs in ArmorAll. I filled a small tupperware bowl with enough to cover the knobs. Let it soak for a few days and they look like new.

Just wash them off, let dry real well, and then repaint the lettering.
 
Before and after pics of the knobs. Have not painted the lettering yet. I guess they could be polished dependant on what the correct finish is.
switch knobs before.webp
knobs after.webp
 
So Foxfab, any sources for floorpans? Saw on your build thread that you got some.

Thanks
 
The knobs were just polished black. If they're slightly cracked or checked I'll hit them with some black paint and then steel wool, filling with the paint, then polish it. If they're really badly cracked, epoxy to fill it first, sand to shape, then paint and polish. A vinyl type restorer makes it shine up nice.
IMG_0718.webp
 
Do tell Phil. I was playing with my lines last weekend and 1/4" steel seemed to fit fine?
QUOTE]

I'll double check again, but I remember the 61-62 40s had a weird size, smaller than the 25s by a long shot, a a bit smaller than the somewhat early 40s...cool, something to do in the morning!

OK, maybe not weird, just different...when I bought the 61 and looked into brake parts some were unavailable, looks like SOR has wheel cylinders for about 100 each, maybe that's why I was thinking of later model brakes. So not weird it's weird...move along.
 
Last edited:
Updated my build thread with progress photos for anyone that is interested.

Now back to the original question of this thread:beer:

Floorpan source??????
 
Foxfab,

Thanks for the info. I shot Paul a PM to see what he may have for floorpans.

Quarter panels and sill is available from other parts houses, so I am not too concerned about them.

Spent some time removing the rest of the fiberglass (PO??) from the front floorpans. Footwells are in good shape and the majority of the rust issues are around/under the toolbox. Working on drilling out the spotwelds on the toolbox to get a better idea of the extent of the rust. The center rounded hump to the rear of the tunnel is also runsted but I can probably get a panel bent to match.

Unless someone might have an early 40 driver's floor pan that is salvagable (maybe even a short toolbox), then I have to look at sourcing one. Don't want to use flat sheetmetal since I want to match the ribbing.

Are the e-78 floorpans offered by the majority of the parts houses the same as the one I may need? Thought the ribbing on the floors might be different due to the different toolbox shape of the early 40s. I know the rear floorpan is different with the short outside ribs.

Bill
 
Well I was able to PM Paul and email. Email got forwarded to CCOT who does not have anything pre-65. So I am back to looking for floorpans again. Really the two that I need are the rear pan and the drivers pan under the toolbox.

Anyone know if the post-65 driver's floorpan would work on mine? Can't really tell from the pictures.
 
I believe there is some miscommunication with CCOT and Paul (Paul sent me a PM to see if it can be cleared up).

I guess this happens when he has to use the distributor in the states instead of direct to customers.

I don't think it is Paul.

I'll let you know what gets worked out. Got my fingers crossed.
 
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