Floor Matting?

[GoatWorthy]

Bought a carpet kit and plan to put it in soon, but waffling on matting. Reading around I think I'll go with second skin as others here have found it to be a good product. They have two options and recommend both be applied - a deamplifier and a matting. I am hesitant to apply the deamplifier as I don't like the idea of applying adhesive directly to the floor pans. For one it'll be a nightmare to remove when I finally get around to my frame off restoration and for two I am not sure if I should be concerned with floor pan rot if I seal it up and water works it way in.

Thoughts from those that have done it? Is the deamplifier really necessary and does it peel off easily? Should I be concerned about rot if applied and moisture finds it way in? I'm in Virginia and the humidity is a real thing here.

Thanks for the input and thoughts... if nothing is heard then I'm leaning towards simply applying matting below

 

[garfieldthecat]

I did the second skin on the firewall and along the floor. Its dense and heavy. I havent gotten my truck running yet since I installed to compare noise level before and after, but I expect it will be quieter than the jute that was originally there, since this is closed cell foam and rubber mat. You need 3-4 of the single sheets to do firewall to rear wheel wells. I did the cargo area in regular jute/aluminum insulation. I might get a vinyl mat later to put over the cargo-area carpeting so it lasts longer.

Luxury Liner Pro™ MLV + Foam Auto Sound Barrier Sheets

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[garfieldthecat]

Also, I did not do adhesive to the insulation, just laid it on top. The firewall has tabs that bend up to hold the mat in place. If there are some places you need to stick closer to the firewall, like around the pedals, use some 3M Duallock (sparingly)

 

[GoatWorthy]

Perfect... that's exactly what I was thinking - simply the liner pro without the thin adhesive "deamplifier". Planned to use similar tape to hold in position on top and not under.

Excuse the ignorance here, but when you say you did the firewall you're talking behind the dash right? My dash is still in so I wasn't planning to do the firewall, just the floor for when I lay the carpet. Would you estimate 4 sheets to cover everything if not including the firewall?

thanks

 

[garfieldthecat]

You can get by without any adhesive or tape if you just lay the carpet kit over the insulation. If you got the ACC kit, that stuff is way thinner than the original carpeting. Its only benefit is that its new. Its hard to shape (use a steamer and heat gun), it tears when you pull to stretch it. I honestly plan to replace the ACC carpeting with something an upholsterer would install at some point in the future, at least in the passenger area (not necessarily in the cargo area).

You would need to pull the heater and AC and blower boxes to access the firewall insulation. I was cleaning all that up so just redid the insulation "while I was in there" for these other purposes. The rug and insulation on the passenger floor area was just its regular 40+ year-old grimey and that's why I took that out.

 

[GoatWorthy]

Nice thanks.

I just ordered it so going with that.

I actually went with OCC after my neighbor used them for his 56’ Chevy. Nice carpet for the price. I’ll let y’all know how well it works. I’d love to do the professional upholster route, but I’ll reserve that for the frame off. This will get me through the next 2-4 years

 

[40Pete]

Nice thanks.

I just ordered it so going with that.

I actually went with OCC after my neighbor used them for his 56’ Chevy. Nice carpet for the price. I’ll let y’all know how well it works. I’d love to do the professional upholster route, but I’ll reserve that for the frame off. This will get me through the next 2-4 years

What is OCC?

 

[40Pete]

Gents, I can't fathom spraying (Lizard Skin) or laying down a 100% adhesive product after spending thousands on both tub and professional paint job. At this time, i'm leaning toward a NON-Adhesive 3M type insulation product (typical van insulation material) or Luxury Liner Pro with a molded mat covering -- OEM replica both front and rear. Looking forward to hearing updates from GoatWorthy on his results.

 

[BurntToast]

The dynamat type products remove body harmonics, that’s why it sounds different when you shut the door after putting some in the door.

The MLV mass loaded vinyl is heavy thick insulative material, that actually keeps the cabin quiet.

Both are useful, but do different things

 

[GoatWorthy]

Gents, I can't fathom spraying (Lizard Skin) or laying down a 100% adhesive product after spending thousands on both tub and professional paint job. At this time, i'm leaning toward a NON-Adhesive 3M type insulation product (typical van insulation material) or Luxury Liner Pro with a molded mat covering -- OEM replica both front and rear. Looking forward to hearing updates from GoatWorthy on his results.

Yeah hoping to begin this weekend. I purchased the luxury pro from second skin and will only use tape on the topside to join seams. I’m NOT laying any adhesive down on the floor panels… will rely solely on the weight and carpet over to hold in place. Worse case it’ll be an easy removal if it doesn’t do well

 

[40Pete]

Yeah hoping to begin this weekend. I purchased the luxury pro from second skin and will only use tape on the topside to join seams. I’m NOT laying any adhesive down on the floor panels… will rely solely on the weight and carpet over to hold in place. Worse case it’ll be an easy removal if it doesn’t do well

That's a decent MLV mat at a good price. Are you laying heat deflection / insulation under the MLV?
My plan is a 5mm heat insulation product under the MLV to mitigate heat radiating through MLV. I'm currently reviewing HVAC / Furnace products, 95% of the auto products have adhesive and overpriced.

 

[GoatWorthy]

That's a decent MLV mat at a good price. Are you laying heat deflection / insulation under the MLV?
My plan is a 5mm heat insulation product under the MLV to mitigate heat radiating through MLV. I'm currently reviewing HVAC / Furnace products, 95% of the auto products have adhesive and overpriced.

No I wasn’t planning on the heat shield. I may regret it, but it’s my understanding after talking with them that the luxury pro should serve both acoustic and heat protection.

For you guys that have done this before - did you reuse the plastic pieces covering the wires running along the door jams? The original carpet was stapled to these pieces and I’m not sure the realism of redoing that

Oh and it was ACC not OCC brand. Hope it works well. We’ll see.

 

[40Pete]

No I wasn’t planning on the heat shield. I may regret it, but it’s my understanding after talking with them that the luxury pro should serve both acoustic and heat protection.

For you guys that have done this before - did you reuse the plastic pieces covering the wires running along the door jams? The original carpet was stapled to these pieces and I’m not sure the realism of redoing that

Oh and it was ACC not OCC brand. Hope it works well. We’ll see.

The vinyl mat will 100% absorb heat, unless it has a radiant barrier; if that's the case, it's not in the heat products section of their website. I would test a spot with a heat gun or hair dryer before installing if nothing else.

For a few extra bucks and effort you will not regret adding a 3-5mm flexible / non-adhesive radiant barrier under it, at the very least exhaust line, tranny tunnel and firewall (super high-heat conduit areas).

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