Flex plate issues. (1 Viewer)

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splitshot

Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
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Location
Rodent Central, Az
Think I just broke the second one in the 2001 4runner on the way to Roosevelt today. There was a slight ticking sound when we stopped in Winkleman and when it dropped into low gear going up the grade from Dripping springs it let go (like dropping into neutral). Coasted to a pullout and shut it down. Tried to restart but seems there is no ring gear for the starter to come in contact with...

Any members have first have knowledge of this? The PO just replaced the original about 6 months ago with an aftermarket unit. I am going OEM for the replacement. I will probably have time to tear down and inspect the weekend after next if anyone has any .02, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Just a guess, but I would check and make sure the engine and trans are squarely mated. If they are not square... well the flex plate will flex and stress fracture then break. Probably would sound like a Snapple lid before it failed.
 
:bang: Damn John sorry to hear this. Really don't need my 99 but used is such a crap shoot finding a good used vehicle hate to sell it. Our DD we've been buying Toyota used Certified which is different.

Any updates on what you've found?
 
I am tearing in down tomorrow, I'll let you all know what I find, but already have an image in mind; the flex plate has cracked and sheared off at the crankshaft and the other half is still bolted to the torque converter....
New flex plate is on order from CBT.
Does anyone have the bolt torque specs for the plate to crank and the converter to plate?

I have an idea why this has failed the second time, but need to get into it to verify.
 
After all the research I put into this and all the images of flex plate fails, I have never seen one shear off this clean.
P.O. told me he bought a top of the line aftermarket product. To me, it looks like the stamping process produced a uniform weak spot. Thoughts?
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I am seeing a lot of heat marks that shouldn't be present on a stamped piece right around the break. Was the center welded in place?
 
No, I think those were the last strong points to hold on.
 
I am seeing a lot of heat marks that shouldn't be present on a stamped piece right around the break. Was the center welded in place?

I agree, looks like heat marks from welding. Similar to the ones on the outer ring. Looks like failed welds to me. Would expect cracks in the area not just a perfect round break if it was a single stamped piece.
 
That's a bummer John. At least you have some EOM parts going back in
 

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