FJ73RV-MRQ Project

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Threads
1
Messages
17
Location
Western Australia
Hi All,

I've started this thread to document the work I have completed (and will complete) on my 1985 FJ73 LX Hardtop.

How it arrived:
$1800 down, and after towing it along Tonkin Hwy for what seemed like forever, my new 4WD arrived at its temporary resting place, my parent's house.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fr76hoesryz8q3u/2013-10-15%2014.06.10.jpg

With at least 2 conrods punched through the block / sump, the beast was going nowhere.
So, LOTS of photos ensue (detailing where everything goes), and a replacement engine is bought for $800: A 1987 60 Series 3F
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uiq97zqjqq6u4tv/2013-10-15%2014.06.58.jpg

I then proceed to do what any smart person would do: a full clean & service.
I ended up spending a good 4 weeks of 2-3 hours a night working on this.
Rocker cover was removed, the oil sludge was removed, valves adjusted (or close enough), coolant channels flushed, rear main seal changed, spigot bearing changed, flywheel machined, full clutch kit, and all new ignition components.

When I got bored working on the engine, I was working on the rest of the vehicle. So, a transmission & transfer oil change, re-greasing of most of the running gear (where specified), fabricating a new battery mount, and a bit of rust-killing was in order.

25/11/2013 - The new engine roars to life :-)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewaxdh7xtkwgcws/2013-11-25%2020.20.22.jpg

I finish off putting her back together, proceed to do a coolant & oil flush (using the bottle additives), and later install new oil and fuel filters. I then install a High Energy Ignition kit from Jaycar, a pair of Narva spotlights, and marveled at my work :)

Until I went to Busselton after Christmas, where it promptly overheated near Settlers Roadhouse at about 8PM (100KM from our destination).
The next morning (after limping the cruiser into Busselton at midnight) I took it into the local mechanic, and... My suspicions were right, thermostat failure.
The cruiser (miracle of a thing) had still managed to push enough coolant past the thermostat to keep me driving (under 2k rpm though :crybaby: )
$300 later for a Genuine Toyota thermostat, cooling system flush, almost $100 of coolant and I was on my way. :steer:


So, my list of things left to do:
Install new Gabriel Nitro Shocks
Install new Gabriel steering dampener
Carby rebuild (Damn flat spot)
Rear diff service / rebuild LSD
Buy / Install auto locker for front diff
Fix electric windows (passenger up and driver control of passenger down - earth issue)
Replace brushes in blower motor
Fix PO's dodgy wiring for door light
Fix PO's dodgy central locking install
Replace dying CB
Fix Handbrake (what 70 doesn't need this doing?)
 
Hi ,that carb flat spot is usually the vacuum gadget on the side of the carb. It tends to happen around 1800rpm as the secondary in the carb opens or tries to open.
Might save you a few hundred.

That engine was a bargain with all the gear attached to it.
Is the body as good as it looks in the pics?

I hope its not your only vehicle,the old 3F drink fuel by the tanker load
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the advice rosco. I'm suspecting you mean the vacuum secondary, and not the choke breaker. I've head that the diaphragm in those have a tendency to break... I'll have to test it :-).
The body is ok... small amounts of rust in the usual spots (doors, lower panel behind doors, behind rear wheel arch, windscreen). I've sanded / ground back the rust & coated with rustkill. Will get around to bog/painting shortly.

Def. not my daily, have a BA falcon for that. Ignore the L plates on the yoda, only have an auto license.
 
Thanks for the advice rosco. I'm suspecting you mean the vacuum secondary, and not the choke breaker.

Yes the vacuum secondary.I hesitated to call it that,something was telling me that it is not its true name.
I think you can get them for under $50.
 
A quick update:
Brushes replaced in blower motor - not the problem... must be a earth issue :-/
CB Replaced
Handbrake fixed
Vac Diaphragm changed... helped a little bit, but rebuild kit on the way.

Unfortunately not going to have much time to look at it due to work commitments. This thread may get resurrected in April :-(
 
So, I'm back at it...
Completed a carby rebuild today, but it's not on the truck yet.
The blower motor issue if definitely an earth issue, I just have to find the dodgy bit (runs to the driver footwell from memory).
Central locking and door courtesy light are all fixed now also.

Left to do:
Install rebuilt carb
Install new shocks & dampener
Fix blower motor earth issue
Fix electric windows

Also, is it normal for 3rd to have some sideways play?
 
Wow... time for an update I think.
Life kinda took over there for a bit.

Things I've crossed off the old lists:
Install new Gabriel Nitro Shocks
Install new Gabriel steering dampener
Carby rebuild (Damn flat spot)
Fix electric windows - ended up being a dodgy switch contact
Replace brushes in blower motor - wasn't the problem
Fix PO's dodgy wiring for door light
Fix PO's dodgy central locking install
Replace dying CB
Fix Handbrake (what 70 doesn't need this doing?)
Fix blower motor earth issue - was a dodgy relay

Other things I've fixed:
Replaced a tie rod end / ball joint
Replaced distributor cap / rotor / leads / plugs twice :-/
Replaced RHS electric window regulator (can anyone say hens teeth?)
Re-gassed aircon

New Stuff:
ARB bullbar
2" OME lift
Electric Winch
33" Jungle Trekker 2 M/Ts
40L onboard air system
Rear air locker
LED lighting through interior
10" LED light bar
2x Narva 175 spotlights

Yet to fix:
Replace points with crane optical trigger
Fit dual battery tray & 2nd battery
Radio (died in the summer heat, so no more tunes)
Small exhaust leak
Valve clearances need re-doing soon

Photos to follow :-)
 
Getting really stuck before the lift, lockers & mud tyres:
2014-06-04%2012.24.23.jpg

After the lift & new tyres:
2014-07-27%2013.41.34.jpg

New bar, winch, lift and tyres... yet still getting stuck:
2014-08-30%2010.36.02.jpg

Now I have lockers, I should either be
a) getting stuck less often - OR -
b) getting stuck worse than before :-D
 
Today's work:
Crane optical trigger installed & timed to ~10deg. It runs so much nicer without the points...
The points cam / rubbing block was so badly worn that I couldn't get the dwell stable even with the HEI installed.
With the crane optical trigger & the HEI unit I have a perfect 41 degree dwell at idle, and a spark that jumps close to 1cm.
I also re-tuned the carby with the better spark and was able to lean it off a good quarter turn.

I then took it for a burn down the freeway to make sure there was nothing odd going on (like a lean misfire or engine knock under load).
Turned out all was OK, so came home a happy camper :-)

Tomorrow I've got to start getting the old girl prepped for a local 70 series meet.
 
Ok, managed to get a bit done recently...
Dual battery tray is fitted, with a deep cycle battery in the forward spot.
85A alternator out of an FJ80 installed (yay for charging at idle)
Upgraded alternator wiring to 8ga
Re-tuned carb (after the below)

...AND... *long story ahead*

Finally fixed the f#$king random stall issue.
Turns out the Aussie spec 70s cruisers have 2 ways to activate the fuel cut on the carb:
1) ignition off (removes power to fuel cut solenoid)
2) very low vacuum (removes the ground to fuel cut solenoid)

A closer look at 2: Manifold vacuum is hooked to a vac switch that activates below 5 in-hg. This switch is wired to a computer that is also connected to the tacho and to the fuel cut ground. When the manifold vacuum is low & the rpm is high (ie: heavy deceleration after WOT), the computer disconnects the ground for the fuel cut solenoid. This is to help prevent after-firing by leaning out during the heavy deceleration.
This is great, if the vehicle in question isn't 30 years old and the computer isn't dodgy as.
So, the simple fix?
Make it work like almost everywhere else in the world: cut the ground wire for the fuel cut solenoid and terminate it directly onto the carb body.
No more random stalling!
 
Where did you find all that mud? Good to see you are getting some use out of it. I never had that problem with the fuel cut solenoid.

When the manifold vacuum is low & the rpm is high (ie: heavy deceleration after WOT
Dont you mean high vacuum when decelerating? You have shut the butterfly in the carb.
 
Last edited:
The mud is a small swamp area between Capel beach (Western Australia) and the Old Coast Road (or is it Forrest hwy now?).
It was a mess to get out of... I had no winch at the time, open diffs, and A/T tyres. My brother had to snatch me out with 18m worth of snatch strap...

From my understanding, it's the change from low vacuum to high vacuum with high RPM that triggers the fuel cut. The vacuum switch is open circuit during low vacuum, and goes closed circuit above 5in-hg.

I don't believe the problem was the solenoid itself, but the extra computer running it or some dodgy wiring. It was just easier for me to bypass it, essentially making it jap/euro spec. :)
 
So...
Got a quote for a set of pacemaker headers & custom 2.25 inch exhaust. Grand total of $980.
Booked in for Friday, so that'll be nice. It'll be good to not hear an exhaust leak every time I floor it :-D
 
Back
Top Bottom