So i am looking at getting a roof rack for my 62 and wanted to know peoples opinion. Should i go the full lenth or half of the roof? Wilderness, Conferr, ETC....which one is the best bang for the buck? And any suggestions on where to get one?
FJ62 roof rack question..
- Thread starter BigSur
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you can have one built for around $325 or so... At least that is what I did. Had a local cruiserhead build mine.
He is in VT if you are close I could give you his info. I would go with a full length like mine, and with the open front I noticed NO increase in noise.
if you can afford it go aluminium. This thing is heavy as hell.
He is in VT if you are close I could give you his info. I would go with a full length like mine, and with the open front I noticed NO increase in noise.
if you can afford it go aluminium. This thing is heavy as hell.
WHOA...DAMN THATS NICE!
Chicago
Chicago
I had BA outfitters build a half rack for my FJ62, Love it! I still need to have it powdercoated,
Here is the more info on my web site:
http://www.cruisercrap.com/baoutfitters/
Here is the more info on my web site:
http://www.cruisercrap.com/baoutfitters/
A word of caution... Your cruiser is rated for 165 lbs. dynamic top load. The ARB and similar racks weigh over 100 lbs. What are you going to carry in the rack.. maybe 50 lbs of gear?
Light stuff on top, heavy stuff down below.
M
Light stuff on top, heavy stuff down below.
M
Mike S said:
What do you mean by "dynamic", load while the truck is moving?
The guy I bought my truck from had a 700lb roof rack custom built for his trip driving through Africa. It consisted of a massive steel frame with a burly, integrated drawer system. He then loaded it with jerry cans full of gas and water, two spare tires, and a plyboard plank that he would sleep on.
I've been welding for two days trying to repair the damage...not mention all the rust that grew around the damage. How much more expensive is it to go aluminum on a roof rack? I'm going to build a new rack, a very light one...
Peepers, that is a seriously cool rack. What did you use for the towers to attach to your rain gutters? Would you be mad if I copied the design?
89s rule said:Is this accross the entire top? The rack I am looking at is the Tradesman. With the bars that run the length of the roof edge.
Where you get those special figures from Mike?
These are the manufacturer's spec for US vehicles. Not special. This is how much you can safely put on the entire roof, according to those who decree such things. This is about max for most US vehicles (some are less, a very few are more - the Hummer H1 is 400 lbs.).
Put whatever you wish up there, but be aware of the actual ratings before you put 600 lbs of gear on the roof, and go barreling down some mountain road. Handling and braking are VERY vulbnerable to top loads.
M
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I've probably had 600 lbs on the roof of mine easily. It can handle it fine if the load is spread out, at least 4 sets of roof rack clamps. I also cut a layer of a epozy caulk that helped protect it. Not actual damage from the roof rack.. I would definetely have a custom one built, one like the pretty one easlier, or something with aerodynamics as best as possible - wide mesh, not a lot up front, thinner metal the better. Some day I'll post a pic when I build a better one. The rack alone also weighted at least 100 lbs (also a custom, but on that was given to me). I could not wait to get it off once I got home from the trip...
here is a photo
here is a photo
Southbound said:
Yes. The amount you can carry while operating the vehicle. This is the US, other countries can vary, apparently. This is simply cautionary, many people exceed this limt, and without incident. I doubt it will crush the roof to have a lot more weight up there, but handling degrades the more weight you put that high above the center of gravity.
The guy I bought my truck from had a 700lb roof rack custom built for his trip driving through Africa. It consisted of a massive steel frame with a burly, integrated drawer system. He then loaded it with jerry cans full of gas and water, two spare tires, and a plyboard plank that he would sleep on.
How much more expensive is it to go aluminum on a roof rack? I'm going to build a new rack, a very light one...
I don't know about the soct of an aluminum rack, but aluminum tends to fatigue pretty quickly, I think. Steel might be stronger per pound than aluminum,
I guess I am saying that you should keep the wieght down as best you can, and drive very carefully with a top load.
M
Freak'n awsome 
.
.dieselcruiserhead said:I've probably had 600 lbs on the roof of mine easily. It can handle it fine if the load is spread out, at least 4 sets of roof rack clamps. I also cut a layer of a epozy caulk that helped protect it. Not actual damage from the roof rack.. I would definetely have a custom one built, one like the pretty one easlier, or something with aerodynamics as best as possible - wide mesh, not a lot up front, thinner metal the better. Some day I'll post a pic when I build a better one. The rack alone also weighted at least 100 lbs (also a custom, but on that was given to me). I could not wait to get it off once I got home from the trip...
here is a photo
I think the main use for mine would be for cooler, a tent, etc. Not loading it down. Also would probably like to sleep up there while camping. Thanks for all the heads up!!
dieselcruiserhead,
Can you explain the epoxy caulk more?
dieselcruiserhead,
Can you explain the epoxy caulk more?
I have a 5x5 1/2 foot Conferr with 6in sides on my FJ60. It is a full length rack for a 40, half on a 60. I love it. Even thout it sticks out just a little on the sides it doesnt look bad, and has taken a lot of abuse on three different rigs.
89s rule said:
I'll try to get a photo. I learned the trick from Berg on PBB and occasionally on here, he actually gave me the tube so I don't remmeber what it was. Some sort of caulk that took about a week or so to cure, provides a rubbery layer and is a great way to stop leaks through the rain gutters on 40 series. I had a few holes from my mangled, ghetto, not-worth-fixing-but-I-attempted-anyways FJ55 roof where rust had eaten at the gutter. So I put a layer of this stuff and it has been great. Just be very patient about letting it cure. It's sort of like a white (you cna probably buy in different colors) rubber layer in the rain gutter. Made it so there is a little cushion between the rain gutter mount and the rain gutter...
I'll see if I can get him to post up about it...
That sounds semi like silicone caulk or RTV. Is it just a little swishy? And how thick a bead did you lay down? Scuff up the paint b/f using it?
Thanks for the advice, as I dont want to get any roof rust, the lower body rust/rot is bad enough.
Thanks for the advice, as I dont want to get any roof rust, the lower body rust/rot is bad enough.
dieselcruiserhead said:
the product is Vulkem "pourable" polyurathane
available online or from commercial caulk suppliers. This is the same stuff they use between joints on runways, sidewalks .. anywhere you want an impervious membrane.
The Vulem is a self leveling ( comes in colors) and very similar to seam sealer available from body supply shops.
Once applied.. let it tack for a few hours and spray soapy water( mist) on the caulk to make it cure faster. It is a moisteure cured product. I dare say when my cruiser passes on my gutter seal will still be good as new. Sun won't break it down either.
Make sure you get the pourable version and not the heavy bodied stuff.
bennett aka berg
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