Fj62 Rear Shoulder Belts in FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Nothing too original here, as there are several threads on this, but I recently did the rear retractable shoulder belt install from an FJ62 in to my FJ60.

I did not see any other threads that had pictures of the trim pieces added, so here's what I did.

My truck is an 87 without the threaded pillar hole. Don't let that stop you. It is very do-able.

Here's the supplies I needed for the job:

A used set of seat belts in very good condition with the 2 trim pieces from Ebay. I paid about $65.00. You can find them in the classified section here, at cruiserparts.net (about $300.00), or other places. If you want new OEM retractable belts, you can find them from Cruiserdan at American Toyota or other dealers.

For the basic mechanics of it, I used the technique that flybynight described here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/225153-rear-belts-installed.html

I used seat belt hardware I had left over from another vehicle project from Wesco Performance: Seat Belt Hardware

You will need the 3 point retractable hardware mounting kit and a 212 mounting kit or source high grade nuts and washers on your own.

Metric wrench set
Dremel with cutoff wheels
Utility knife
Straight edge
Fast steel Epoxy putty (RIP Billy Mayes)
Wire and fishing line to thread the upper anchor attachment
3M double sided sticky tape
Standard shop safety tools- eye and ear protection, etc.
About 4-6 hours
 
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Here's what it looked like before starting. I wanted to keep it looking as close to stock as possible. It's become an obsession with my cruiser. I was nervous about trimming the original panels, but it went just fine.

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These pictures will show the PS install. The DS is basically the same, with a couple of differences how the retractor mounts.

The panel pops off with a screwdriver or trim removal tool.
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The plastic trim piece pulls out from under the window seal and the seal around the door.
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I held up the retractor and traced around it to see where to trim the metal frame. Try to position it as low as possible- at the bottom of the opening, there are 2 pieces of sheet metal that come together. If you drill the bolt holes low enough, you will go through both pieces for increased structural support. It also is important to make sure the angle of the retractor is correct, so that the belt runs straight up the the pivot point in the c-pillar.
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Here's my trimmed opening and the drilled bolt holes below. The only problem with positioning the bolt holes so low was that I had to bend the large washers so that they would fit behind the sheet metal.
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Here's the retractor in place.
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And the bent washers and nuts. I used blue locktite, plus they have lock washers on the bolts.
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This is the upper pivot point with the anchor attached and the hole made in the headliner.
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Here's the anchor with Fast Steel epoxy and fishing line attached that I fed down from the top anchor point. This was a bit tricky- make sure you feed it down and towrds the back where there is a larger opening. Otherwise, you won't be able to pull it straight up. I couldn't really show a picture- you'll have to see it for yourself.
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Once I pulled the anchor in place, I pulled hard on the line to try and let the eopxy set up. Then, cut the line and carefully start threading the anchor bolt. If you get it started, you're good to go.
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The 3rd point attaches by lifting the seat bottom and folding down the seat back. I removed the metal trim piece around the side of the seat back to be able to move the carpet out of the way and get to the attachment point and bolt.
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Now we're making some progress.
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To install the new trim pieces, the plastic wheel well covering material needs to be trimmed just enough to allow the FJ62 trim pieces to fit snug over them. Start small and trim more as you go- you can't put it back once it's cut off.
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Once everything is trimmed, you can put the new pieces in place. The long plastic piece slides under the window trim.
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I used 2 sided foam tape to attach the pieces. I didn't want rattling anymore than the original Araco builders did.
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Next, measure twice and cut once to fit the FJ60 panels up to the new pieces. I peeled the vinyl covering back and then folded it back over and glued it in place once the cardboard was cut. Looking at this made me realize how easy it would be to make some new side panels if needed.
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Once that was done, the panel popped right back into place.
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One more project to check off my list. I hope I pray I never have to test these belts out. Now I need to retrofit an FJ62 rear seat back with headrests.
 
Nice! I'm about to do the very exact thing. I have an 87 with the holes(don't know if they're threaded yet) and all the trim pieces like you installed. Thanks!
 
Nice! I'm about to do the very exact thing. I have an 87 with the holes(don't know if they're threaded yet) and all the trim pieces like you installed. Thanks!

You're welcome and good luck! From what I've read here, most or all the US FJ60s after 85 have the hole but it is not threaded.
 
I've done this install just as you have. Your write up and photos will help guide the next Mudder who wants to take on this upgrade. Super nice presentation. Thanks, N.M.
 
Nice work. My '82 60 has threaded holes.
 
Wow! Great write -up- Does anyone have the rear belts for sale? in Gray- oh and of course the trim pieces?

Thanks
Frank
 
I know this is an old post but I just ordered all trim pieces as well as both seat belts from cruiserparts.net for $250. seemed like a decent price for all parts especially because I was having a real hassle trying to find them in brown. Thanks for putting this post together it was very helpful to me.
 
I know this is an old post but I just ordered all trim pieces as well as both seat belts from cruiserparts.net for $250. seemed like a decent price for all parts especially because I was having a real hassle trying to find them in brown. Thanks for putting this post together it was very helpful to me.

When you get delivery can you shoot us a photo or three of all you get from cruiser parts as a full kit and your comments on the quality?
 
I sure will. he said it could take a few weeks.

Thank you Philosopher, appreciate it. I will need to cut some lower steel on mine Like here in Hank14's post but don't want to do unless the parts are clean and usable, not cracked or stained.
 

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