- Location
- United States
In search of a nice fj62 daily driver. Love the two tone but open to all. Prefer a refurbished one or one that could be refurbished and customized. Appreciate it!
Wanted Fj62 mid life crisis!
- Thread starter Delaney3000
- Start date
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I have a 1989 FJ62 for sale in NW Indiana.
- Thread starter
- #5
Details?
- Thread starter
- #7
She is pretty! How many miles? Rust? Condition?
Actually selling (2) LCers- We are downsizing/moving to a smaller house and I have 6 vehicles. I have yet to post either one. I was looking to get $20,000 for both, but make an offer of the FJ62. Some details are as follows:
Willing to negotiate & separate.
I have never driven the FJ62 in winter. I have driven the FZJ80, sparingly, in winter. FYI, I am located in NW Indiana. Very minimal rust on both. Frames on both are solid with minimal surface rust. The FJ62 frame actually has less surface rust than the 80. EGR systems for both are intact. No Engine Codes on either. Both have recently passed local emission testing with no issues.
For sale:
- 1989 FJ62 – 256,726 miles
- 1996 FZJ80 – 214,794 miles
Both run & drive, exceptionally well (for what it’s worth)
Both have had recent, full front axle knuckle/birf/seal jobs
Both have had recent, full exhaust installation(s) – FJ62 /custom exhaust, including new cats. FZJ80 / Complete Borla System
Both have had recent Diff/TC fluid replacement. Fluid used on both- Mobil1 75W90
Have always used MOBIL 1 -0W40 Oil in both
Both have had recent coolant flushes. FJ62 uses old Toyota ‘Red’. Hoses/clamps replaced on last flush of FJ62, as well as a new Toyota coolant rail. FZJ80 had been converted to ZEREX Original ‘Green’ some time ago. From what I have read – OK to use ‘Green’ as long as it does NOT contain EHA (ethyl hexanoic acid), which can eat away at the head gasket & is low in silicate content. ZEREX Original ‘Green’ does NOT contain EHA and is low in silicate content. I have heard of more issues when trying to convert back to the ‘Red’ (incompatibility).
Individually:
FJ62 –
Truck is lifted approx. 3 “. Skyjacker shocks. OME steering stabilizer. Truck is originally from NC and then Rhode Island. I have owned 3+ years. General Grabber AT2’s-33’s, with plenty of tread left. Eagle Alloy Rims. THULE Roof Rack. The standard ‘square’ FJ62 rearview mirrors had been replaced with smaller mirrors, by the previous owner. Had new power antenna mechanism installed. Everything works with the exception of the AC. All AC components intact. I believe it needs recharged, but not sure. Both front and rear heaters work.
FZJ80 –
Truck is stock. I did have slightly bigger tires installed (Goodyear Wrangler Adventurer with Kevlar- 33’s), with plenty of tread left. It is NOT triple locked. It does have the CDL switch installed…system works fine. Had a new power antenna mechanism installed. PHH has been replaced. Had a new power steering cooler installed (replaced the ‘paperclip’). Had the Intake/throttle body removed and cleaned approximately 2 years ago. At the same time, a new Toyota - Fuel Filter was installed. Both front and rear heaters work…..blow extremely hot. Battery is 3 years old.
Feel free to ask any questions or request more pictures-
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #9
Appreciate the details.
How much are you asking for the fj62I have one in Oregon that is a great candidate for a refurb. It runs great and has around 175k miles. I have too many other cruisers and not enough time.
theglobb
SILVER Star
I have a 1988 62 in North Carolina with 178,991 miles and growing. It's been my daily driver for the past year and have put 10,000 miles on it. The engine is strong, transmission is solid but kicks you into reverse. Slow oil leak but it's so slow that you can't even tell if it has moved at all on the dipstick. Speaking of oil it's changed every 3k miles religiously with 10w-40 Penzoil and 2 qts. of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. AC doesn't work at the moment the expansion valve is clogged, but has been converted from R-12 to R-134a. Has a 2.5" Old Man Emu lift on it. Custom seat covers, driver side seat cover is ripped but the original seats in the car are all mint. SOR floormats. Rust converted the frame and keep it preserved with Fluid FIlm, the same done for other rusty bits. ARB Front Bumper. Upgraded Stereo and Sound System. I have a Hayden Transmission Cooler that I got for Christmas that I'll throw in whenever it sells. The Cruiser is washed thoroughly underneath every time I take it offroad, wash it twice usually after going on the beach. Selling cause I want a JDM Turbo Diesel something, preferably 5spd manual HJ61.
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Work Done in The Past Year:
New Alternator - 169,356 - 2/7/19
New Rear Tailgate Shocks - 169,761 - 2/16/19
New Sway Bar Endlinks - 171,163 5/18/19
Power Steering Fluid Changed - 172, 842 - 7/30/19
New Tires - 173,783 - 8/7/19
Diff Fluid Changed - 174, 368 - 8/15/19
New Exhaust System - 176,341 - 11/5/19
Brake Master Cylinder - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Brake Pads - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Alignment - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Brakes Adjusted - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Parking Brake Restored - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Knuckles Rebuilt - 178,108 - 1/21/20
New Sparkplugs & Wires - 178, 235 - 1/24/20
OEM Asisn Locking Hubs - 178,311 - 1/30/20
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The Ugly:
Paint, clear coat is peeling on the hood and the roof, but the sides of the car are shinnyyyy, besides the scratches here and there. There is a chip/chunk of paint taken off on the roof down to the original paint. (Looking into getting that chip/chunk fixed before selling)
Rust, it has some rust where the mudguard connects to the wheel well, but only in the rear. And a few spots on the rear side windows right at the curve and a patch of it under the rear window. Rust converted the ones near the windows and spray painted them so it wouldn't look that bad. (Plan on fixing the rear mudguard rust area before selling)
Glove Box Door doesn't stay closed on its own so I just shove a paper towel in the locking mechanism and it holds.
Steering Box is old so you have to hold the steering wheel at a slight angle to go straight, alignment is perfect though.
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Photos
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Work Done in The Past Year:
New Alternator - 169,356 - 2/7/19
New Rear Tailgate Shocks - 169,761 - 2/16/19
New Sway Bar Endlinks - 171,163 5/18/19
Power Steering Fluid Changed - 172, 842 - 7/30/19
New Tires - 173,783 - 8/7/19
Diff Fluid Changed - 174, 368 - 8/15/19
New Exhaust System - 176,341 - 11/5/19
Brake Master Cylinder - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Brake Pads - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Alignment - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Brakes Adjusted - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Parking Brake Restored - 178,108 - 1/21/20
Knuckles Rebuilt - 178,108 - 1/21/20
New Sparkplugs & Wires - 178, 235 - 1/24/20
OEM Asisn Locking Hubs - 178,311 - 1/30/20
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Ugly:
Paint, clear coat is peeling on the hood and the roof, but the sides of the car are shinnyyyy, besides the scratches here and there. There is a chip/chunk of paint taken off on the roof down to the original paint. (Looking into getting that chip/chunk fixed before selling)
Rust, it has some rust where the mudguard connects to the wheel well, but only in the rear. And a few spots on the rear side windows right at the curve and a patch of it under the rear window. Rust converted the ones near the windows and spray painted them so it wouldn't look that bad. (Plan on fixing the rear mudguard rust area before selling)
Glove Box Door doesn't stay closed on its own so I just shove a paper towel in the locking mechanism and it holds.
Steering Box is old so you have to hold the steering wheel at a slight angle to go straight, alignment is perfect though.
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Photos
Last edited:
theglobb
SILVER Star
