FJ55 Project Rusty Gold

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Project Rusty Gold said:
Well the rig run now but only for a few seconds. I am not sure what to do to tune the carb to get the rig running longer so i can use a timing light to set timing. So my question is i can get the rig running but seem to run fine but starts to die like it's not getting enough fuel but when I get on the gas it sputters and back fires out the card then smokes out the carb when it's dead. So what should I do now I lost on how to tune the Rochester carb.
Click to expand...

are you 100% positive the disty and the tdc is correct? every time I have a problem like this it always ends up being that I did not put the disty in right and not at top dead center. Last time I had this problem was with a gm hei disty that was unmarked for the plug wires. Had a friend help troubleshoot and realized that the rotor was not pointing to the right location when engine was verified as being at TDC (thumb on plug hole #1, timing mark lined up).
 
I put the disy at 7 degrees before top dead center as instructed by the manual. So i am not sure it thats right or not but it starts right up with the choke on.
 
you could still be 180 degrees out I believe, you may want to pull the #1 plug and do a thumb test to make sure you are truly at tdc with the pointer and the #1 at tdc. I normally stop cranking the engine when I feel the push coming toward my thumb, then rotate the flywheel (in the direction of crank) to the pointer, then tap the #1 piston with a screwdriver, then I know we are at tdc for sure.

Noah
 
Well if the engine is 180 that would mean the engine is on the exhaust part and so the engine would not fire because the fuel and the air mixture would not be in the cylinder. Which means no bang. So I thinly it is the carb is off or taking is off just enough. I will try and get a video of the problem tonight
 
Lil'John said:
Sounds like a good game plan. Hope you are able to stick with it. *just jinxed you*:lol:

You might also check the parking brake drum. It is possible to get them very tight... although most people have problems with it holding.
Click to expand...

Well you jinxed me


I put the Landcruiser up for sale.

IMG_0143.webp
 
Engine problems

So my engine has been giving me problems so the my fj55 is dead in the driveway,
and I was wondering what your opinions are on a Ford 302 with a c4 transmission conversions?

My plans for the Land cruiser is to make a reliable cruiser that in the long run I can use as a tow rig for a classic wood boat.

Also things have been on the up so I am able to keep the Pig. :bounce2:

Also the motor I am looking into is out of a fj40 and can possible come with conversion brackets.
 
What's wrong with the engine? Fuel/ air delivery or mechanical, or electric (firing)? It may be more simple and cheaper to fix what you have. Just a thought.
 
That's the problem with the engine. I can't seem to find all the issues with the motor. I have been working on an off with it for over a year and still have not gotten a reliable rig. Also it is now starring to smoke again. So I am at a loss of what I can do with the motor.
 
I grew up a Ford kid and like the idea of the 302 except the oil sump might be an issue with your front diff. The chevy is in the back of the motor and I think is a lot cheaper to get/fix/upgrade.
 
Well the reason for that is where I am at there is a very limited number of people that even have a Land Cruiser so 2f engines as not very common along with anything related to an fj40 or fj60. I have been thinking of going to Spaldings and getting ahold of a newer 5.3l or 6.0l motor with auto. My only problem is I am not sure that my stock 10 spline axles would hold up to the power also if I can afford all the unknows.

If anyone know of a parts list of things needed to be up and running, would be great to see if this is possible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom