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- #61
Jason,
I looked at your website. the bumper you built for your red (monsterliner) 60 is cool. Thanks for the response.
Gary
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Jason,
I looked at your website. the bumper you built for your red (monsterliner) 60 is cool. Thanks for the response.
Gary
- Thread starter
- #62
Update:
transfer case- No high range.
I finally got the truck out on the road to calibrate the Dakota Digital speedometer. I only had low range!!
my shift lever would move but I could feel that it was not engaging the shaft. I could not feel the detents in the shaft. So I went back to the drawing and found that I had left off the washer under the shift lever. this allowed the shaft to drop down far enough in the case so the lever was not in the slot. it turned out to be a simple fix. I took the bolt out of the lever, put the washer in place, re-attached the lever. the trick was getting the shaft in the right position so that it engaged the slot internally in the transfer case and holding the shaft up and trying to slip the lever over the shaft without pushing it into the transfer case
after several attempts I was successful.
Power Steering Sensitivity- so the drive told me that the steering setup is super sensitive. it has the GM Type II pump and the Toyota FJ80 steering gear box. So after some research I found TurnOne-Steering.com. After talking to them they suggested a flow restrictor and gave me the correct part number for my pump. He also suggested to increase the Caster to help eliminate the sensitive steering.
Has anyone else had this issue and could chime in with how they fixed this issue?
Gary
transfer case- No high range.
I finally got the truck out on the road to calibrate the Dakota Digital speedometer. I only had low range!!
my shift lever would move but I could feel that it was not engaging the shaft. I could not feel the detents in the shaft. So I went back to the drawing and found that I had left off the washer under the shift lever. this allowed the shaft to drop down far enough in the case so the lever was not in the slot. it turned out to be a simple fix. I took the bolt out of the lever, put the washer in place, re-attached the lever. the trick was getting the shaft in the right position so that it engaged the slot internally in the transfer case and holding the shaft up and trying to slip the lever over the shaft without pushing it into the transfer case after several attempts I was successful.Power Steering Sensitivity- so the drive told me that the steering setup is super sensitive. it has the GM Type II pump and the Toyota FJ80 steering gear box. So after some research I found TurnOne-Steering.com. After talking to them they suggested a flow restrictor and gave me the correct part number for my pump. He also suggested to increase the Caster to help eliminate the sensitive steering.
Has anyone else had this issue and could chime in with how they fixed this issue?
Gary
- Thread starter
- #65
The steering pump is a GM Type II pump, I used a Toyota remote reservoir. The steering head is a stock 1993 FJ80 unit.
I was getting some sensitive feedback. it was very sensitive to steering wheel movement. I researched and spoke with TurnOne-steering.com.
They suggested that the flow was more than the head required. Here is some reading on the topic Debunking the Shim Kit Theory
I went with their advice and bought the flow control valve.
I will say that it did eliminate the over sensitive steering.
attached is a picture of the old and the new flow control valves. the Turn One valve has a slightly smaller opening as you can see in the pic.
Gary
- Thread starter
- #66
I got the Toyota mirror arms that mount to the windshield hinge bracket. I had them powder coated in the same flat black, with the Toyota mirrors installed last night.
- Thread starter
- #67
- Thread starter
- #68
The end product will be powder coated with 20% gloss black. the hinges are Comp 4x4 HD on the left and standard on the right. another shop did the detail work on the "TOYOTA" symbol. The basket was designed to carry two Jerry Cans or a small cooler.
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- Thread starter
- #69
I have been sewing on the door tops. I am working out the details on the complex two sided upper door frame covers.
This is my first attempt.
This is my first attempt.
- Thread starter
- #71
Thanks for the kind words. Good to finally meet you.
If you wouldn't mind sharing more pics of how you built the tops of the doors. And more pics of making the canvas. I just ordered the half doors from Aqualu and was going to call ICON and try to buy them like you. But I will go the same route as you. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #74
My frames required twicking and adjusting to fit the top frames with rubber weatherstrip attached to the door frames. Jonathon Ward said that his tops were extremely expensive to build and very time consuming. WELL, that is an understatement. I am not trying to duplicate exactly the ICON top, but I do like the concept of multiple layers and it is insulated.
The upper frames are ICON design. Mr. Ward was kind enough to send me pictures.
As far as the materials used: The outer material is Haartz Stayfast three ply canvas (Exteriors | Stayfast®) I purchased it from Bill Hirsh Auto supply. The inside piece is Sunbrella with a flocked liner (Sailrite - Fabric, Canvas, and Sewing Machines Since 1969).
I purchased that from Sailrite. I am using the flocked side for the inside liner. It gives it a nice soft headliner look.
I am also gluing a 1/8" thick closed cell foam as added insulation to the inside of the Stayfast.
The top cover will be a layer of Stayfast, then closed cell foam, then the Sunbrella with the flock side to the inside of the truck - all glued together with glue designed for canvas and foam.
The upper frames are ICON design. Mr. Ward was kind enough to send me pictures.
As far as the materials used: The outer material is Haartz Stayfast three ply canvas (Exteriors | Stayfast®) I purchased it from Bill Hirsh Auto supply. The inside piece is Sunbrella with a flocked liner (Sailrite - Fabric, Canvas, and Sewing Machines Since 1969).
I purchased that from Sailrite. I am using the flocked side for the inside liner. It gives it a nice soft headliner look.
I am also gluing a 1/8" thick closed cell foam as added insulation to the inside of the Stayfast.
The top cover will be a layer of Stayfast, then closed cell foam, then the Sunbrella with the flock side to the inside of the truck - all glued together with glue designed for canvas and foam.
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- Thread starter
- #75
The frame material is 3/8" hot rolled round. I used nut serts in the upper part of the half doors to attach the plate to the lower door.
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Amazing job. Very nice. Looking forward to seeing the top.
- Thread starter
- #77
Then I experimented with the design of the upper door cover using some low cost material, canvas duck cloth at $5 per yard did the trick. The driver's door that I did first i was not happy with and it and I plan to redo it. it turned out to be a trail and error kind of thing.
The first two pics are final design with tailor's chalk marks showing my dimensions. I found the best method of cutting the pattern was to lay the frame on the fabric and trace it with the tailor's chalk.
The last three pictures are of the duck cloth mock ups that I did.
The first two pics are final design with tailor's chalk marks showing my dimensions. I found the best method of cutting the pattern was to lay the frame on the fabric and trace it with the tailor's chalk.
The last three pictures are of the duck cloth mock ups that I did.
- Thread starter
- #78
I have the rear door tops done and will post some pics of them ASAP. I'll also get some pictures of the pieces of the door uppers to show how they slide over the upper frame and velcro together.
On a side note, the fj44 four door soft top B Pillar is available from real steel cruiser parts. They are the supplier of icon soft top frames. The pics seen here must be from earlier days. The door frames however are indeed made at icon.
Three only issue with the real steel soft top frames on a aluminum tub is that you have to modify the rear most bow as it doesn't go all the way to the floor like a steel tub.
Three only issue with the real steel soft top frames on a aluminum tub is that you have to modify the rear most bow as it doesn't go all the way to the floor like a steel tub.