Build FJ40/80 Four Door-H55- LT4- Driver

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@gwalt584 That looks amazing!! Great job on the top I really like that. But the whole thing is amazing!!
 
Just took it for a test drive.
It is amazingly quiet on the inside
No flapping or much wind noise. I can see well out the windows and outside mirrors are good. I will treat the top after it is thoroughly dry.
I have a bow that bangs against the roll cage when I hit a bump. I’ll secure that. And the top is done.
185 temp on the cooling system
5 speed is smooth and the 1st gear is real low speed.
I think I need a resonator on the exhaust.
 
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Bring it up and show it off in June

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Ok. Give me specifics on the struts you referred to.
I was thinking of doing something different than a prop rod.

Gas charged Hood & Hatch strut retrofit

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For a stock hood I'd recommend 60lb gas struts on each side. For your hood, I'd recommend something heavier if your hood is heavier... likely 70-95 lbs depending on how much it weighs and it you want it to open all the way by itself without lifting it.
 
You mean like this?


Yep. I've got a pair of used & worn +/- 95 lb struts that make it automagically open, but I prefer the lighter ones which allow me to leave it partially open, fully open, or extra high.
 
Nice, I like that idea.
Yep. I've got a pair of used & worn +/- 95 lb struts that make it automagically open, but I prefer the lighter ones which allow me to leave it partially open, fully open, or extra high.
 
19.7(20)" or 26" are standard "universal" strut lengths available everywhere. I used 19.7" which compress to about 13.5" as installed. By playing with brackets a bit it could open a bit further as there is a bit of further range (min is about 12").

All the struts I've seen use a 10mm ball (3/8"ish). There are brackets of almost every shape and size, as well as threaded balls (pins) that can be mounted with custom mounts.

I've found some of the struts slow down at end range whereas others stop suddenly at the end with a bang... especially if they're heavier weight. So be aware when you're selecting them.
 
The heat and humidity here in the south will test your cooling system to the max.
the Four Seasons Radiator is doing a great job. I noticed that my temperature would rise when on the interstate cruising at 70. it would go from 190 to 225. Then when I would slow down it would cool back down to 190. so I talked to Gerry Bell at FSR and he said right off that I needed more air flow.
So I pulled the shroud and fans and sent them to FSR. I took the shroud and fans off the end of last week and was able to get it back to me on Thursday. I put it back in on Sunday night.
Here is the revised shroud, this flows much more air:

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While I had the radiator shroud out. I pulled the steering head and replaced it with a remanufactured unit from NAPA. NAPA part #
Part: NSP 88279031. Remember this is a 1993 FJ80 frame and axles. so the steering head was for that year model.
This was not as bad a task as I had expected.
The results are amazing. At 75 mph it feels like a brand new truck.
 
While I had the radiator shroud out. I pulled the steering head and replaced it with a remanufactured unit from NAPA. NAPA part #
Part: NSP 88279031. Remember this is a 1993 FJ80 frame and axles. so the steering head was for that year model.
This was not as bad a task as I had expected.
The results are amazing. At 75 mph it feels like a brand new truck.
Maybe I missed it but how did you adapt the steering column to the 80 series steering box?
 
I did use an FJ40 steering column and aftermarket shafts and joints. I can take a picture if needed.
I am adapting a 70 series column on 80 steering box/frame. I'm still in brainstorming stage so if you have a photo for reference that would be great.
 
I am adapting a 70 series column on 80 steering box/frame. I'm still in brainstorming stage so if you have a photo for reference that would be great.

Will do.
Do you know the name of the place in Texas that rebuilds the 80 series steering heads?
 
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