FJ 73 Rear Hub Axle Seal?

[jimbo78aus]

Hi all I have a 1985 FJ73 LX Landcruiser with a leaky rear hub axle seal!
Q. Can I pull the axle out of the housing slightly, just enough to remove broken gasket and use a high temp silicone gasket goo to create a new seal. Will this be lickly to cause any damage to the shaft oil seal while doing so. And do I need to take pressure of both sides of the rear differential or can I jack one side of the car up at a time to pull out axle.

Cheers
Hope makes sense
James

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hi all I have a 1985 FJ73 LX Landcruiser with a leaky rear hub axle seal!
Q. Can I pull the axle out of the housing slightly, just enough to remove broken gasket and use a high temp silicone gasket goo to create a new seal. Will this be lickly to cause any damage to the shaft oil seal while doing so. And do I need to take pressure of both sides of the rear differential or can I jack one side of the car up at a time to pull out axle.

Cheers
Hope makes sense
James

Its not much of a job to pull the whole axle out and do it properly.
Just remove those 6little screws on the axle and pull .
I dont think it will make a difference if one wheel is on the ground but I always lift both so I can spin things around.
You can drain the oil and refill after.

 

[Ron R]

He's talking about the axle hub seal.
That's seal indicated as 42411E in the exploded view above.
You cannot replace it other than to take of the whole axle-hub.
And then you have to take out the shaft, no doubt. Will need gasket 42321 as well then

 

[oldblue]

To remove the cone collets. don't just hit s*** out of them.
Get a brass rod about 150mm long ,undo the nut, place the end of the rod on the stud and hit the other end with a hammer, working around each stud untill the work loose.

 

[roscoFJ73]

He's talking about the axle hub seal.
That's seal indicated as 42411E in the exploded view above.
You cannot replace it other than to take of the whole axle-hub.
And then you have to take out the shaft, no doubt. Will need gasket 42321 as well then

Oh well not such a big job. When I did the bearings on my HJ61 it was easy.
It will be hard to replace that axle hub seal with some silicon
That why I thought he was talking about that paper gasket.

 

[jimbo78aus]

Rosco I was talking about the paper gasket! I was not sure though if you had to replace the oil seal every time you removed the axle, or weather they hold up well to re-use.

Cheers

James

 

[roscoFJ73]

Rosco I was talking about the paper gasket! I was not sure though if you had to replace the oil seal every time you removed the axle, or weather they hold up well to re-use.

Cheers

James

James I think the rubber seal can be reused but if its coming out it would only be a few dollars to replace.
I did the whole bearing ,gasket and seal for under $80.

 

[bigbrowndog]

You can use silicone instead of the paper seal, just keep it out of where the cones fit in. I would pull the axle and replace the inner seal as it sounds like the differential oil may be getting past that seal if this is the case the moly grease in the bearings will be mixing with the hypoid oil in the diff . Good time to repack your rear wheel bearings, LOL do both sides as one often follows the other. When I did mine I put the LSD in and I think the paper seals were $1.00 each and the inner seal was $9.00 each.cheers

 

[jimbo78aus]

Cheers fella's!

Today I just pulled the axle out and replaced the gasket with silicone to get me by until I get a bearing and seal kit for both sides. Cant afford at the moment so the quick fix is the only option to get me buy and stop the oil slinging everywhere.

Only come across one problem, when torqueing up the nuts and cone washers on the studs one of my studs snapped. Upon inspection it had a fracture in it where the snap occured. I managed to find a old engine bolt with what seems to be the same thread, cut to length and have placed in as another tempory solution.

What I would like to know though is does anyone have the specs for the stud I will need to replace. Whether it is metric etc etc The 42411B bolt in the above diagram Rosco posted.

Thanks
James

 

[Ron R]

Don't worry to much about that stud.
Once I even used just the treaded part of a very long bolt, cutting of the head and the uncut part, as a temporaly stud. Worked fine.
No problem at all. And the original studs and the conical washers are expensive!!

 

[jimbo78aus]

I did find a set of 6 washers cones studs and nuts with hub gasket and seal for $35 on the net but dont realy want to spend that much when I only need one stud. I Guess the bolt will do for now until I source the stud singular. It can wait until I can afford the bearing kit as I do want to do it properly.

My other half was not the happiest after I spent $65 today on a set of 4500kg heavy duty ratchet axle stands. But I assured her with all the extra work I have to do on the forbie their a investment for all the stuff I can do myself where I can then save a few dollars

James

 

[Ron R]

Dunno what labour is in Ozi.
$65 for axle stands is insane........cheap.
65 dollar Aus in the Netherlands is about what it costs for half an hour of labor at the dealer's.
And what is more precious those 65 dollars or your safety?
Have fun

 

[roscoFJ73]

I did find a set of 6 washers cones studs and nuts with hub gasket and seal for $35 on the net but dont realy want to spend that much when I only need one stud. I Guess the bolt will do for now until I source the stud singular. It can wait until I can afford the bearing kit as I do want to do it properly.

My other half was not the happiest after I spent $65 today on a set of 4500kg heavy duty ratchet axle stands. But I assured her with all the extra work I have to do on the forbie their a investment for all the stuff I can do myself where I can then save a few dollars

James

James,give Guy or John a ring at Midland 4wd wreckers and ask them how much for a set of cone washers and bolts . I see that kind of stuff floating around in the dust up there.
I bought some of those axle stands some time back. Made in China but quite strong and stable.
Im sure you will get value from them.
Also ignore the part# in that diagram as they are obsolete.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Dunno what labour is in Ozi.
$65 for axle stands is insane........cheap.
65 dollar Aus in the Netherlands is about what it costs for half an hour of labor at the dealer's.
And what is more precious those 65 dollars or your safety?
Have fun

Dealers here charge about $75 an hour but most shops charge about $65 or less.
It cost me $605 inc %10 GST for rebuilt and flow matched 1HZ injectors , pump adjustment and put on the dyno to test the HP.

An engine reconditioner will do a valve adjustment Tuesday for $100 inc shims.
He says 1 hr is all it takes which surprised me but I am not complaining
He was a good find as he keeps every shim size in stock and can also grind shims to the right size if necessary.

 

[Ron R]

Dealers here charge about $75 an hour but most shops charge about $65 or less.

Here the figure is a bit higher, but in Euro's, wich is times 1,6 in AUSD. And that makes it about 110 AUSD/hr (GST incl).
That's why I do all the maintenance myself.

It cost me $605 inc %10 GST for rebuilt and flow matched 1HZ injectors , pump adjustment and put on the dyno to test the HP.

I payed about the same.......but just to get the injectors.
Dyno was about 640 AUSD (no pump adjustment)

I think in general parts are much less than over here. I just received some stuff (bearings and gaskets) from down under. The lot would have cost me over here about 445 AUSD. I got them now (including shipment) for 176 AUSD.
Downside is it took them about 8 weeks to get here because the service of the company was not that great. Ordered Jan 11th, send Febr. 26th. Then it took the parcel 9 days to get delivered to my door. Found two O-rings missing (must have been forgotten) and a gasket damaged.

An engine reconditioner will do a valve adjustment Tuesday for $100 inc shims.

Have no idea what this would cost you here, but the shims are approx 16 AUSD a piece (incl GST)

He says 1 hr is all it takes which surprised me but I am not complaining
He was a good find as he keeps every shim size in stock and can also grind shims to the right size if necessary.

If you do this often, yes I can believe you do it in one hour. It usually takes me about 2 - 2 1/2 But I do this only once every year and a half or so.
Grinding the shims? Never heard this!!
Even didn't know one can do this. Think the surfaces are hardened and so no milling.