First off road Build 1985 Pickup. Advice/pointers appreciated. (1 Viewer)

[mike00720]

I’ve had this truck for a few years now. I may have put 3k on it. Maybe. Anyway I’ve acquired some parts to get started but I’m putting things off until I figure out/ decide for springs etc. I’m not really sure what the previous owner had done. I know there is some sort of lift on it. There are 3” blocks in the rear which I’d like to eliminate. I have a marlin high steer setup I’d like to install but I know there’s a minimum lift required. On that note I would prefer the truck to sit as low as possible. Any advice is appreciated. I do have some parts already but am on a kinda tight budget. Thanks

 

[jsabowabo]

I think you need to start with how big of tires you want to run then work backwards. If you want run 33's you'll need a 2" lift over stock, without cutting your fenders. You can get that by ditching the lift block and adding a leaf to each pack (cheap), or just replacing the spring pack. Not sure on the Marlin High steer lift requirements.

 

[mike00720]

I think you need to start with how big of tires you want to run then work backwards. If you want run 33's you'll need a 2" lift over stock, without cutting your fenders. You can get that by ditching the lift block and adding a leaf to each pack (cheap), or just replacing the spring pack. Not sure on the Marlin High steer lift requirements.

Thanks. That’s a good point. I believe I read the high steer requires a 4” lift. I have a ARB locker with 5.29’s so I have to see what the max tire size limit is with that. I’d like to go as big as possible although I have to get over cutting my sheet metal.

 

[ntsqd]

A very rough Rule of Thumb worked out on the ORC email list a very long time ago was that a tire bigger than 33" or wider than 11" with gears lower than 4.56 was going to put the Birfields in jeopardy. Below those limits you're pretty safe. Above any of those limits and your driving technique will be the prime decider of how long they last.

5.29's put you in the 35"+ range. Any highway miles planned or strictly a trail truck?

I made cross-over (NOT high steer) work with OME front springs under my '84. It was a fair amount of fabrication effort.

 

[msahr]

4" lift is needed for Hi-Steer. That's what I had to do when I put it on my 4Runner.

That much lift means you won't have to cut too much. I had my footwells modified to clear 35s at full lock/stuff and also trimmed the rear of the wheelwells. You'll need to relocate the ECU but there's enough slack in the stock wiring to put it behind the glovebox.

Not sure about the rule regarding gearing and birfields. I've got stock gears and run 35s, have for years. Changing to 4.88s or lower would be better it's one of my "someday" tasks. Never had a birf issue, but my squirrel motor 22RE isn't exactly a torque monster.

I have an All-Pro front spring hanger, All-Pro Hi-Steer, 4" springs all sourced from All-Pro. You'll need an IFS steering box. It's all been done a million times lots of info here and other Toyota forums. You could call Marlin his tech people are very knowledgeable.

Good Luck and keep us updated!

 

[ntsqd]

The RoT was based on compiling all of the then known Birf failures and how each of those trucks was set up. After we got that far it became pretty clear what was pretty much safe regardless, and what combo's were dangerous to the Birfs. Some combos were dangerous with a heavy skinny pedal user and weren't with a driver who went light on that pedal.
The addition of a doubler meant that nearly none of the other factors, except the skinny pedal one, mattered. The Birf's were in danger. The RoT isn't ref'd much any more due to the availability of parts like Marfields, Longfields, etc. We didn't have those options then.

The reason that I say 5.29's puts the OP in the 35"+ range is because 5.29's and 35's will be very close to a stock reading speedo.

 

[chesshircat]

A front locker is harder on axle shafts than larger tires. When i was on 35's, 5.29's the locker would snap axles like twigs. I've been running RCV shafts and 37's for years with no problems. I would decide what your are going to do with the truck. If you are going to wheel it hard i wouldn't go smaller than 37's. I would go with a 5" springs in the front, 63's in the rear. High steer is a must, next best money spent is dual cases.

 

[mike00720]

4" lift is needed for Hi-Steer. That's what I had to do when I put it on my 4Runner.

That much lift means you won't have to cut too much. I had my footwells modified to clear 35s at full lock/stuff and also trimmed the rear of the wheelwells. You'll need to relocate the ECU but there's enough slack in the stock wiring to put it behind the glovebox.

Not sure about the rule regarding gearing and birfields. I've got stock gears and run 35s, have for years. Changing to 4.88s or lower would be better it's one of my "someday" tasks. Never had a birf issue, but my squirrel motor 22RE isn't exactly a torque monster.

I have an All-Pro front spring hanger, All-Pro Hi-Steer, 4" springs all sourced from All-Pro. You'll need an IFS steering box. It's all been done a million times lots of info here and other Toyota forums. You could call Marlin his tech people are very knowledgeable.

Good Luck and keep us updated!

Thanks. I already been collecting parts for some time now. I have the steering box/ brackets etc to convert to power steering. I had picked up a built ARB locker and gears for the front. 5.29’s. I couldn’t turn them down for the price and they were brand new. Thanks for the info. I’ll be posting when I get on it with some photos. This will be mostly a trail rig

 

[mike00720]

A very rough Rule of Thumb worked out on the ORC email list a very long time ago was that a tire bigger than 33" or wider than 11" with gears lower than 4.56 was going to put the Birfields in jeopardy. Below those limits you're pretty safe. Above any of those limits and your driving technique will be the prime decider of how long they last.

5.29's put you in the 35"+ range. Any highway miles planned or strictly a trail truck?

I made cross-over (NOT high steer) work with OME front springs under my '84. It was a fair amount of fabrication effort.

Thanks. Pretty much a trail truck

 

[mike00720]

A front locker is harder on axle shafts than larger tires. When i was on 35's, 5.29's the locker would snap axles like twigs. I've been running RCV shafts and 37's for years with no problems. I would decide what your are going to do with the truck. If you are going to wheel it hard i wouldn't go smaller than 37's. I would go with a 5" springs in the front, 63's in the rear. High steer is a must, next best money spent is dual cases.

Thanks. I

A front locker is harder on axle shafts than larger tires. When i was on 35's, 5.29's the locker would snap axles like twigs. I've been running RCV shafts and 37's for years with no problems. I would decide what your are going to do with the truck. If you are going to wheel it hard i wouldn't go smaller than 37's. I would go with a 5" springs in the front, 63's in the rear. High steer is a must, next best money spent is dual cases.

thanks. I was thinking of putting a spool up front. Is that a good idea or bad. I’ve been doing some research but like I said never built a off-road truck. I did read about the 63” springs. Now to get it level or the right height is that done with shackle length or add leafs? I didn’t mention but I am a welder and have access to some fab equipment.

 

[ntsqd]

For a trail truck I'd look at a spool in the rear and an ARB or similar selectable locker in front unless you're thinking a KOH/Rock Bouncer type trail truck and then a front spool might make some sense. A selectable front locker means that you can switch it to open if you have enough warning of a tight turn coming up. Some guys will say "Ya, but you can simply unlock one locking hub if you need to do that." In ~25+ years of driving 4x4's off-road I have never, ever seen anyone get out and do that.

I used the WFO kit to put the 63's under my '84, and it sat about level with the OME fronts when I set the shackle angle as Eric @ Deaver Spring had told me to set them. I ended up with the kit's shackle hangar butted up against the rear of the OEM shackle hangar.

 

[mike00720]

For a trail truck I'd look at a spool in the rear and an ARB or similar selectable locker in front unless you're thinking a KOH/Rock Bouncer type trail truck and then a front spool might make some sense. A selectable front locker means that you can switch it to open if you have enough warning of a tight turn coming up. Some guys will say "Ya, but you can simply unlock one locking hub if you need to do that." In ~25+ years of driving 4x4's off-road I have never, ever seen anyone get out and do that.

I used the WFO kit to put the 63's under my '84, and it sat about level with the OME fronts when I set the shackle angle as Eric @ Deaver Spring had told me to set them. I ended up with the kit's shackle hangar butted up against the rear of the OEM shackle hangar.

Yes that makes sense. I already have a ARB for the rear and was thinking about the price of another selectable for the front but I see your point

 

[chesshircat]

Thanks. I

thanks. I was thinking of putting a spool up front. Is that a good idea or bad. I’ve been doing some research but like I said never built a off-road truck. I did read about the 63” springs. Now to get it level or the right height is that done with shackle length or add leafs? I didn’t mention but I am a welder and have access to some fab equipment.

I wouldn’t put a spool up front it sucks getting in and out to lock the hubs. Definitely do a selectable up front, personally I like the Toyota elocker. My 63’s match the height of my 5” front springs. Being a welder is a huge plus and it fun welding on a truck like that, when you try something that doesn’t work cut it of and try something else