Ferkels Fantastic Voyage aka 99 miles to the new sty!

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Seems like we've got plenty of chefs helping to stir the pot now. I'll just add that it's easier to stab the engine with the truck on the ground than to try to stab the transmission from a transmission jack on your back, so unless the trans has to come out I'd leave it in place. If it does have to come out assemble the whole drivetrain and stab it in as one.
 
Seems like we've got plenty of chefs helping to stir the pot now. I'll just add that it's easier to stab the engine with the truck on the ground than to try to stab the transmission from a transmission jack on your back, so unless the trans has to come out I'd leave it in place. If it does have to come out assemble the whole drivetrain and stab it in as one.
We’d have to agree to disagree on that.
From the ground with a trans jack or cherry picker is the only way I’ve ever done it on my personal vehicles. Not the easiest job, but a 100% success rate.
 
How did I miss this?

iu
 
We’d have to agree to disagree on that.
From the ground with a trans jack or cherry picker is the only way I’ve ever done it on my personal vehicles. Not the easiest job, but a 100% success rate.
I cant agree or disagree as I haven't installed an engine separately w/o the trans in decades. I can attest to trying to stab the the trans into the motor when they are both suspended and , the conclusion is that method sucks a*& but, if you have the patience, you can make anything work. To me(pea brain) Just makes the most sense to use the @RUSH55 suggestion to mount the motor first, then use the trans Jack w/ the drive shaft disconnected to stab it. reducing one moving variable seems like the most logical approach unless of course your interior is apart then you can use more detailed engineering like what @Pighead suggested.
Hoping at some point to be posting q's of easier challenges.. my .02
 
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Got a new clip for the T/O bearing hub body and curious if anyone knows the trick on how to crimp the clip so it fits tightly to the hub body? on second thought maybe I can bend the clip by moving it to the side of the hub so it fits tighter and avoid changing it out. Thoughts?


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Sorry @Tomba ,
you are performing this job 180° backwards from how I do it. Not sure that I can say anything that will help you.
I’ve always stabbed the transmission into the engine, never the engine onto the transmission.
I would drop that transmission and t-case out of the way, get the engine mounted and bolted down and then stab the transmission into place and reassemble.
I’m sure what you’re doing is doable, but about 100 X more difficult.
I think I would vote for this. One awkward mass that is floating free in space vs. two...
Get the engine mounted and then get to it!
 
That my friend, is the answer I was looking for! Makes perfect sense. Eliminate 1 of the moving variables. I'm just too far down the rabbit hole to think of that.

So, to summarize: Disconnect the drive shaft and do the ebrake project then reconnect it after 1. engine is mounted and 2, the t case /trans are bolted up. 🤔

So you're saying there's a chance...

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I am not sure I understand - are you saying that you are trying to install the trans and t-case with the rear drive shaft bolted up?
If yes, I think that is going to increase the level of difficulty. That would just irritate me to have the rear shaft flopping around while you are trying to maneuver everything.
 
Thanks! and I juist said to myself "this is the last time I will take on this level of any auto related projects, Period". This all wouldnt be so bad if I dont have to chase everything down to do it right. W/O the MUD team I waould be toast....
Doing it right is the way to go!
"There's always time to do it right the second time!"
 
Its a full on wrestling match now. Does toyota or anyone else make a tool to easily remove the shifter? needs to be removed to slide the trans back to get da motor mounted.
Push down, and twist.

I can't imagine trying to assemble these with the shifter installed!
 
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