FatherSonSJ45 Troopy

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Chamba said:
Best engine toyota has ever made. I'd love one in my 43 one day. You're going to love it. I missed it: did you decide to go H55 or 41 behind this beast?

I had one I was going to put in my LX back in Australia many years ago but Marv wanted it. He talked me out of it while he was staying with us in Adelaide one time. Seeing it in your engine bay sure makes me wish I had it now!
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For now sticking with the h41. Decided I want to get some seat time with it before I go changing things for overdrive I might not really use. I drive pretty slowly and have 3.7s and 33s, so not sure I’ll want more top end. If i do, I might consider just doing the 10% high range over drive since that gets you almost all the way there and the cross members can stay put.

I have an h55 but it’s going in my 40. The 3spd and tcase in it now sound like they’re about to come apart.
 
Bolted the cross member in as is to see how much fudge room there is. I think it’s ok in the short term, but long term this probably going to eat transmission mounts. In the not too distant future I think I’ll see if LCwizard can fab one of his bada$$ skid plate mounts with the 5* angle built in.

The big big difference is how much extra room against my leg the shift cane has now. Reverse is seriously 2-3 inches further to passenger side. Game changer.

Also I think this radiator is going to work. Might have to put an elbow on the bottom, but if I flip the thermostat housing 90* and it should work great.

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Got the power steering pump on and a new belt. Mocked up the radiator and definitely going to need a 90 on bottom. Not sure if I can get away with a silicone elbow or if I need to find and aluminum welder to weld one on. Also going to swap the banjo fitting for a regular AN.

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Get a new radiator with inlet and outlet on passenger side. Silicone option for lower connection looks dicey. @cruisermatt can source you one.
 
Mr landcruiser sells a modified radiator for exactly my situation. Too bad they’re not shipping to the states right now! When will this madness. It also looks likes it’s about $900 usd before any shipping… I’m going to chat with a few local metal fab places to see if they can replicate this. I can’t weld aluminum sadly.

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The top inlet will definitely work as is with the thermostat housing simply rotated. Will need a slightly different hose, but there’s good clearance there.

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Kmehr said:
Mr landcruiser sells a modified radiator for exactly my situation. Too bad they’re not shipping to the states right now! When will this madness. It also looks likes it’s about $900 usd before any shipping… I’m going to chat with a few local metal fab places to see if they can replicate this. I can’t weld aluminum sadly.

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a decent radiator shop can modify your existing rad to the above pic
 
Dropped driveshafts off today. Both are dented bad enough to need retuning and all 4 joints need replacing. Boy are those oem joints expennnsive. Over $70 each! Probably could have had a set of tom woods made for about the same damn price.
 
Small bit of progress today- was able to confirm with McKinnon's Cruisers out of Australia that they do make a bolt in crossmember for my setup, so that's on order. Trying to get that figured out has been a real source of heartburn for me lately! That cross member is just such a complex piece from the factory, and then throwing in the variable of the 5* bell housing clock, I was struggling to come up with something that would work, and would work the tools available to me. The McKinnon's crossmember is seriously nice looking stuff, so that should be money well spent.

Found a radiator shop that can put an elbow on my radiator as well. Hoping to get that dropped off Wednesday.
 
my new steering wheel arrived today and sadly I think its a dud. It's in great shape, but definitely gray, not black like the photos. it's also maybe an inch smaller in diameter than the stocker, so really won't make much legroom difference. I found on McKinnon's cruiser that he makes a "steering wheel lift kit" and looking at the space above the column, you could easily raise the wheel at the dash board a couple of inches.... something to think about.

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Kmehr said:
my new steering wheel arrived today and sadly I think its a dud. It's in great shape, but definitely gray, not black like the photos. it's also maybe an inch smaller in diameter than the stocker, so really won't make much legroom difference. I found on McKinnon's cruiser that he makes a "steering wheel lift kit" and looking at the space above the column, you could easily raise the wheel at the dash board a couple of inches.... something to think about.

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An 80 series black wheel will work and has "Landcruiser" text, although they look more modern than the grey one you bought. I believe 15" OD if my memory serves me correctly. Click on the link for photos.

EWheeler

Post in thread 'What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?'

Installed an FJ80 steering wheel to replace a badly cracked and deteriorating factory wheel in my ‘69. Happy to report no noticeable increase in steering input force to turn the tires (manual steering still). Wheel is still a bit too close for my personal comfort, am slowly planning a power steering upgrade and when that takes place, the wheel will be pushed towards the dash an inch or two. Horn nor the signal cancellors are functional yet as i wanted to make sure i liked the wheel before spending any time on getting those items working.

Eventually i will also figure out something for...
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EWheeler said:
An 80 series black wheel will work and has "Landcruiser" text, although they look more modern than the grey one you bought. I believe 15" OD if my memory serves me correctly. Click on the link for photos.

EWheeler

Post in thread 'What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?'

Installed an FJ80 steering wheel to replace a badly cracked and deteriorating factory wheel in my ‘69. Happy to report no noticeable increase in steering input force to turn the tires (manual steering still). Wheel is still a bit too close for my personal comfort, am slowly planning a power steering upgrade and when that takes place, the wheel will be pushed towards the dash an inch or two. Horn nor the signal cancellors are functional yet as i wanted to make sure i liked the wheel before spending any time on getting those items working.

Eventually i will also figure out something for...
  • Like
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Yeah I’ve got a grey 80 series in my 40. It’s a great size but didn’t have quite the old school look I was going for.
 
alright- moving into some of the little things on the motor side, and have questions:

1- starter. My new starter just has a single post to attach a battery cable. the 2F I removed had a solenoid on the starter that I assume negated the need for a relay, but I now need to use a relay with this starter?

2- Alternator- man, this could be a crap shoot, but any chance anyone has some guidance on which wires here are going to match up?
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Further investigation shows I bought an internally regulated alt because that’s what’s on my 40 which is what this motor was going in at the time. Of course the externally regulated version is cheaper (but still not cheap!), and looks like the plug fits perfectly to my wiring harness. Grrr.

Also my accelerator pedal isn’t going to work. My 45 has the all linkage version uncommon in the states it looks like. I had planned to hook up the hand throttle that was disconnected because that seems cool, but not sure how useful it’ll really be? Looks like the best option might be the lokar cable compatible version from man a fre.
 
Unimogguy said:
Can you not just swap plugs on the wiring harness or alternator?

It appears @Coolerman sells them here:
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Yeah I think so, but I also need to figure out how to bypass the external regulator. Probably would cause problems to regulate voltage twice?
 
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