FatherSonSJ45 Troopy

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My h41 appears to have identical gearing to the h55f, minus the overdrive. It’s a dec/1980 build date, so I guess it could be the slightly different ratios, but still very similar and quite a bit different than the h42.

In my 40, my current crawl ratio is 25:1, and there have been times I’ve wished it was lower. As things sit, my 45 is at 33:1. If I went to 4.11 gears, I could bump to 37:1. That would translate to about 250rpms difference at 65mph on a 1:1 gear, which is a speed I see spending very little time at. Guess I could always do a 3:1 in the transfer case…

I know the wheelbase here should support some more highway speed than a 40, but I just don’t see me doing that, or at least not often. Hell, as my boys reach driving age, might be good to have a limited top speed.
 
Kmehr said:
My h41 appears to have identical gearing to the h55f, minus the overdrive. It’s a dec/1980 build date, so I guess it could be the slightly different ratios, but still very similar and quite a bit different than the h42.

In my 40, my current crawl ratio is 25:1, and there have been times I’ve wished it was lower. As things sit, my 45 is at 33:1. If I went to 4.11 gears, I could bump to 37:1. That would translate to about 250rpms difference at 65mph on a 1:1 gear, which is a speed I see spending very little time at. Guess I could always do a 3:1 in the transfer case…
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Lots of numbers there pal, I’m still on my first tub of coffee.
 
Few more shots with the nomad wheels

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Well the parts a palooza is already on. Sadly my gas tank is leaking, so a new tank is on order.

Also pulled the trigger on some Corbeau Sport bucket seats with heaters. My plan is for this to become my daily driver and tag along trail rig, so can you really put a price on comfort?! My long leg is having a real hard time hitting the brakes with the OEM manual steering steering wheel. Hope I can slide a bucket seat back about 4in and fix that issue. Would really like to keep the oem steering wheel, though the leg issue may mean a move to a smaller fj70 wheel. We will see.

Also found a complete fj60 axle and power steering gear. Really wanted to give manual steering and drums an honest chance and about 100 miles is all it took ha. The drums stop pretty well, but I’d say they just feel inconsistent. Sometimes firm, sometimes straight. Same with power steering. Parking lots and just backing in and out of my shop are a chore. I’m spoiled with the brake and steering setup in my 40…
 
3_puppies said:
you only need a few piece of a disc axle to work with the 1981 40 axle. it is not like doing a pre 76 drum axle.
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Yeah I’m looking forward to not having to also do knuckles as well, especially since the PO just redid them recently.
 
well, you will have to change the knuckles, even though it's a 81 and large-pattern your current knuckles don't have brake caliper ears.

I make almost everything for the 60/80 power steering conversions if you need help with that. Frame plate, drag link, radiator support notch, etc.
 
Kmehr said:
Yeah I’m looking forward to not having to also do knuckles as well, especially since the PO just redid them recently.
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as stated above, you need the knuckles, spindles and hubs/rotors and calipers, backing plates

re-use your existing birfs, locking hubs, steering arms and lower caps
 
If you lived closer, I would let you drive my 45 lpb. It has a 12HT, H55F combo with PS, disk brakes, 4:10 gears on 33’s and cable lockers. The brakes are amazing, cruising speeds are very comfortable and just as capable off road as any LC should be.

12DE1660-4A85-4217-99E6-BA51F0560D5A.webp
 
Michael B said:
If you lived closer, I would let you drive my 45 lpb. It has a 12HT, H55F combo with PS, disk brakes, 4:10 gears on 33’s and cable lockers. The brakes are amazing, cruising speeds are very comfortable and just as capable off road as any LC should be.

View attachment 4057787
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Gorgeous rig! Is that shot in Colorado? What is your brake setup?

It seems like my 3.73s with the H41 will get me very close to the same ratios as 4.10s and the H55F. I’m strongly considering sending my transfer to valley hybrids to get the 3:1 low range and 10% high range overdrive. On paper it looks perfect, but I should probably get it all together and drive to first to see if it’s really needed.
 
Kmehr said:
Gorgeous rig! Is that shot in Colorado? What is your brake setup?

It seems like my 3.73s with the H41 will get me very close to the same ratios as 4.10s and the H55F. I’m strongly considering sending my transfer to valley hybrids to get the 3:1 low range and 10% high range overdrive. On paper it looks perfect, but I should probably get it all together and drive to first to see if it’s really needed.
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Yes, the picture was taken on Poser Rock. I’m running 70 series axels front and rear. So discs in front and large drums on the rear. It’s been awhile since I built my truck (2017), but I think I’m running 80 series MC and booster. It’s all documented in my build thread.
 
I've been studying this disc brake situation and while I have a line on a full fj60 axle, I'm thinking FROR's big brake kit might actually work out pretty well for me instead of doing the full 60 series conversion. (Haven't been able to get an email or call back during the holidays to confirm any of this), so If anyone has done this, please chime in! Since I currently have the large pattern knuckles with drum brakes, I have the "better" steering arm setup, but my knuckles do not have the disc brake ears on them, the FROR kit might bolt right up to my knuckles without having to swap them around or even take them off. Looking at Redline's big brake kit, that appears to be nearly identical to the FROR kit, their instructions have you either cut off the disc brake ears or swap knuckles from one side to the other so the disc brake ears are facing forward and dont get in the way of the mounting bracket for the new caliper. If anyone can confirm this, It'd be great! At $875 using all newer Toyota stuff that is likely to be available and affordable further into the future than fj60 stuff, this seems like a no brainer if it works. Plus I've done knuckles before and I'd rather not do them again, especially since the PO just redid them.
 
Kmehr said:
(Haven't been able to get an email or call back during the holidays to confirm any of this),
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I don't know if the holidays are a valid excuse for the lack of communication from them, its a pretty common theme throughout the past couple years with them.

S

Thread 'Front Range Off Road'

On Monday, November 10, I ordered a new rear hub for my 1997 80 series from Front Range Off Road. They have been totally silent and have not responded to my emails of November 10 and 12 requesting information on when they would ship. They have a nice website showing all that they sell. Has anyone done business with them? If they fail to ship is there another source for a new rear hub besides Toyota?

I would spend my money with Justin and his team at Redline every day of the week and twice on Sunday before supporting FROR with a penny. FROR has terrible customer service documented all throughout this forum. Great products, poor execution.

This is a rad truck, looking forward to watching your progress on it.
 
EWheeler said:
I don't know if the holidays are a valid excuse for the lack of communication from them, its a pretty common theme throughout the past couple years with them.

S

Thread 'Front Range Off Road'

On Monday, November 10, I ordered a new rear hub for my 1997 80 series from Front Range Off Road. They have been totally silent and have not responded to my emails of November 10 and 12 requesting information on when they would ship. They have a nice website showing all that they sell. Has anyone done business with them? If they fail to ship is there another source for a new rear hub besides Toyota?

I would spend my money with Justin and his team at Redline every day of the week and twice on Sunday before supporting FROR with a penny. FROR has terrible customer service documented all throughout this forum. Great products, poor execution.

This is a rad truck, looking forward to watching your progress on it.
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I've had wonderful experiences with Justin and would love to support them, but their big brake kit is $2500 and requires 17in wheels, so $875 vs more like $5k with new wheels and tires is worth some headache...

* edit- I see that Redline has a 16in rim version, so Ill enquirer about that, but still a huge price jump.
 
Kmehr said:
I've had wonderful experiences with Justin and would love to support them, but their big brake kit is $2500 and requires 17in wheels, so $875 vs more like $5k with new wheels and tires is worth some headache...

* edit- I see that Redline has a 16in rim version, so Ill enquirer about that, but still a huge price jump.
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I put the larger 4 runner calipers on the front of my '80 FJ40, paired with the Monte Carlo rear disc brake setup, a mid 90's 4runner vacuum booster, and a non-abs FZJ80 master cylinder with external proportioning valve and it would stop the truck on 37's & 15" wheels just fine. Actually the front was probably a little TOO good as you'd get a weight transfer to the front on hard braking and the rear would get loose. A bit of a scary/unsafe situation. A member rolled his 40 on the highway in CO due to this kind of situation in an emergency stop where the rear got loose and came around on him. Your longer wheelbase will give a lot more stability over a 40.
 
EWheeler said:
I put the larger 4 runner calipers on the front of my '80 FJ40, paired with the Monte Carlo rear disc brake setup, a mid 90's 4runner vacuum booster, and a non-abs FZJ80 master cylinder with external proportioning valve and it would stop the truck on 37's & 15" wheels just fine. Actually the front was probably a little TOO good as you'd get a weight transfer to the front on hard braking and the rear would get loose. A bit of a scary/unsafe situation. A member rolled his 40 on the highway in CO due to this kind of situation in an emergency stop where the rear got loose and came around on him. Your longer wheelbase will give a lot more stability over a 40.
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What brackets and hubs did you use in the front? And were you able to reuse your drum knuckles?
 
Kmehr said:
What brackets and hubs did you use in the front? And were you able to reuse your drum knuckles?
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My 1980 had disc brakes on it already with the FJ60 front axle I swapped in, I just installed the larger 4 runner calipers onto the stock knuckles. Everything else was FJ60. Its been 15 years since I did it, so the details are fuzzy, but I do have a ton of old information saved in MS Word documents. From my notes, there was a website that had a good detailed write up, but the link is no longer functioning. My comments I made to myself:

This particular example uses 92 4runner calipers. They have larger pistons and also have larger pads. Clearance issues can arise between the body and the wheel but can be solved with wheel spacers or a grinder.

I did have to slightly grind the exterior of the caliper body to work with 15" wheels.

This is a thread I had saved on brakes, there is some talk in there about piston and pad size differences.

ntsqd

Thread 'Comments on brakes'

I got to thinking that I've made comments about what I learned in two years of designing racing brake components and several decades of working on racing vehicles in many different threads, and perhaps I should put them all in one place instead. This thread is an on-going effort to do just that. I won't pretend to know all of the answers, but hopefully those that do know the answer will post it.

For the sake of keeping it easy to find a particular topic I'll request that specific need questions be confined to those threads rather than here. Perhaps, with enough input from others we can...


Some Notes about wheelhubs and rotors:

'74 UA FJ

Thread 'What years did aisin hubs come on disk brake axles?'

I've got a '74(see sigline) that had a disk brake front axle swapped in before I bought it in 2000. Of course '74s came with drums and it originally had warn hubs because there is a sticker on the dash.

Like the title says, what years did aisin locking hubs come on disk brake front axles? Now I realize that they could have kept the drum housing and swapped in the internals, but I think it's probably more likely that they swapped out the whole front end. What say you?

Post # 11: “Wheel hubs and rotors: 76-78 Fj40 rotor bolted to hub; 79+ fj40, FJ60, Solid axle Mini rotor attaches to wheel hub with wheel studs. The rotor/wheel hub assemblies are interchangeable as a set. The later (wheel studs thru rotor) rotors are considerably cheaper than the earlier bolt on versions, however, they are more work and expense to change out because wheel lugs have to be removed and replaced, typically with a press. Mini rotors are not vented, but 4runner rotors are.”
 
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