FatherSonSJ45 Troopy

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

You can have two voltage regulators. It doesn’t hurt anything at all. It will just go into and out of the 2nd regulator at 13.5V or whatever it charges at.
 
cruisermatt said:
You can have two voltage regulators. It doesn’t hurt anything at all. It will just go into and out of the 2nd regulator at 13.5V or whatever it charges at.
Click to expand...
Well that would make things a lot simpler! I figured it might create something really funky.
 
Few small things accomplished this weekend - got the heater valve replaced and new hoses run. The old valve was leaking pretty bad.

Pulled and tested the thermostat as I’m spinning the housing. It didn’t do a thing in a pot of boiling water, so a new terrain tamer is on order. Speaking of, my full parabolic suspension kit has landed in the states! Should be here in a week or so!

Ordered a secondary fuel filter setup. I know these are tough motors, but I’d rather not take any chances given how hard parts are to find.

Drained the rest of the engine oil and transmission and transfer case. Replaced oil and fuel filters. Picked up new fluids to fill everything up.

Radiator is at a local shop having an elbow welded on the outlet.

Still waiting on power steering and brake parts, plus the new transmission crossmember, but slowly getting there!

Think I’ve got a plan for wiring, but the accelerator pedal is going to be another story. The linkage version I have doesn’t give a lot of options and there’s no plugged hole in my firewall to simply swap another style in.

IMG_8257.webp


IMG_8256.webp
 
Last edited:
Running a bit behind behind but hopefully shipping today! 😁
 
Trying to take advantage of a short break in work and continue some progress.

Got the rest of the fluids in the drivetrain, removed some unneeded wiring from the hj61, and the alternator wired up. AND IT CRANKS OVER !!!! First bump of the key and it turns over with authority!

Should get my secondary fuel filter should be here tomorrow and damn it, I’m starting it up this weekend. I need to hear it run!

I’ve determined a location for a small bracket for the PS reservoir, and got the clutch slave replaced, but not bled yet. Going to start removing all the old steering stuff tomorrow, cause I just know my PS setup will be here any day now…
 
Picked up my radiator today and it looks like it will work quite well. The hard part is going to be cobbling together a hose to fit. The new elbow ended up being a bit smaller, 1.4in in diameter, and the outlet on the water pump is measuring 1.85in. I used Matt’s Radiator in Colorado Springs. Pretty much the only old school radiator shop I could find that does stuff like this and still work on the old copper core radiators, in case anyone needs that kind of work, I’d give them a thumbs up.

Plan for the weekend is to get a bracket for the fuel filter made up, and adjust the power steering reservoir bracket a little to bolt up to my core support as show below. And get some diesel and start it up!

IMG_8267.webp


IMG_8268.webp


IMG_8269.webp


IMG_8271.webp


IMG_8273.webp
 
It lives! Or at least it did for about 20 seconds.

I fitted the secondary filter and I think that’s the problem. I cheaped out on a filter base that did not seem to seal great, either at the plugs or the fittings.

I hooked up my vacuum bleeder and even tried taking the filter down and dropping it below the fuel pump and it was still a constant stream of frothy fuel. I probably pulled a 1/2 gallon through with the vacuum bleeder and it really didn’t appear to change. The hand pump also does absolutely nothing.

Tomorrow I’m going to try bypassing the secondary filter and see if that’s where the air is coming from.

I’ll say the starter and battery are cranking it very strong, so feeling good about a single battery.

Also have the bottom radiator hose setup figured out. Phew.

IMG_8282.webp


IMG_8281.webp


IMG_8280.webp
 
Last edited:
Funny I went through this exact alternator thing yesterday. I have a 2H that I put into an HJ45 originally externally regulated. Originally had an H engine in it. I ditched the regulator. The blue wire wasn’t used (I read somewhere it might’ve provide a pulse for rpm and not used on some vehicles). Red went to key switched on and I ran the white to the battery positive. Someone with more info might be able to correct me but that’s what worked for me.
 
Now it’s really alive! Replaced all of the fittings on my fuel filter, and that didn’t seem to change anything. Then I replaced the primer pump, that was a bingo! Probably only took about 15 pumps to have crystal clear fuel after that.

I went through each cylinder and tried to bleed it at each injector. Man they’re hard to get to! All of them except 4 seemed to have a noticeable impact on idle, but it’s hard to tell. The sound with just an open turbo is also hard to diagnose just based on comparison to exhaust videos.

The short list is getting very short! Need to:

- bleed clutch
- install transmission cross member, should be here this week
- radiator (picked up a top hose that will work today)
- install driveshafts
- figure out throttle pedal
- either wire up VSV to the old coil wire, or rig up a pull cable off the old choke cable (which I think would be super cool and a good theft deterrent.)
- driveshafts install
- shifter boots install
- power steering, which hopefully will ship out tomorrow…

 
NOSAJ said:
What secondary fuel filter set up did you go with? I need to do something for my 2H. PO completely removed and bypassed the factory fuel/water separator on mine. Enjoying the build!!
Thanks!
Jason
Click to expand...
I just used a generic filter base from Amazon that fit the Baldwin BF1212 filter. Glacier diesel also sells a kit that’s probably worth it.
 
Stack of parts showed up from @cruisermatt today, so should have everything to finish up the steering. My cross member is in the air as of this morning, so should be less than a week till I have everything to get it all together. Just hope I can squeeze the time!

I got it running less than a month after pulling the old motor, if i can get it driving in two months, I’ll be thrilled. The brakes, suspension and rear axle swap will be another chapter.

IMG_8290.webp


IMG_8291.webp
 
Last edited:
Tiny bit of progress today. Took a piece off the old carb linkage and retapped it to fit the Lokar throttle cable. Now I know that I need a touch over 1 1/2in of throttle pedal travel to have full throttle.

Also I can really see why people say the throttle is touchy on these motors- just feeling it by hand there’s a lot of tension to get it to move at all, then it flys wide open.

Have a break in work this week, so planning to dive in deep to the steering tomorrow and fingers crossed I can get it wrapped up by Friday. Tell you what- don’t see this in any threads out there that I’ve come across- if you want to use an 80 series box, you have to make a new shock tower. The steering shaft side of the box just has a lot of extra casting ears and width compared to the 60 box. Same the 60 box goes for a fortune for a ragged out used one and a new 80 box is $300.

Going to make a new tie rod with DOM and 4plus inserts. The stocker just seems so dinky compared to the DOM from @cruisermatt s drag link it just wouldnt feel right to use. Also planning to build a spacer for the steering gear side of the frame in lieu of cutting and rewelding the radiator support. Was going to follow that path if I could reuse the stock shock tower, but it just won’t fit together. I spaced it from the frame on my 40 instead of cutting the core support and am happy with it.

IMG_8304.webp


IMG_8305.webp
 
Last edited:
You don’t have to make a new shock tower at all. Just grind the inside rib off, just like if you were installing a 60 box. They have the same dimensions there.
 
cruisermatt said:
You don’t have to make a new shock tower at all. Just grind the inside rib off, just like if you were installing a 60 box. They have the same dimensions there.
Click to expand...
Do you have a photo? I’d love to not make a new one if I don’t have to, I’m not doubting you, but I can’t see it.

This is the area I don’t see the 60 series boxes having:

IMG_8296.webp


IMG_8306.webp
 
Last edited:
I’ll see if i can dig one up. My 71 has it done but it’s all dirty and doesn’t show well.
That’s the $300 aftermarket 80 box, I’ve done a few conversions (at least 10) with those. They work well. You just have to grind that whole rear rib out.
The steering box does look a little low in your pic.
 
cruisermatt said:
I’ll see if i can dig one up. My 71 has it done but it’s all dirty and doesn’t show well.
That’s the $300 aftermarket 80 box, I’ve done a few conversions (at least 10) with those. They work well. You just have to grind that whole rear rib out.
The steering box does look a little low in your pic.
Click to expand...
Excellent. I’ll give it a go tomorrow with the stock tower. It’s this rib part that looks like it’s going to hit:

IMG_8296.webp
 
Yes that part will end up touching but it’s not a big deal.
 
cruisermatt said:
I’ll see if i can dig one up. My 71 has it done but it’s all dirty and doesn’t show well.
That’s the $300 aftermarket 80 box, I’ve done a few conversions (at least 10) with those. They work well. You just have to grind that whole rear rib out.
The steering box does look a little low in your pic.
Click to expand...
@siplife’s old rig has this. If its still in your shop you can get some pics.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom