FatherSonSJ45 Troopy

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Question for the 12HT folks- I just went through and replaced my heater hoses and realize I have three on my 12HT going towards the heater core, and two on the 2F. How have people dealt with this? I assume two of the three on the 12ht can be T’d together?

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Rainy day cleaning phone photos/screen shots and ran across these. @cruisermatt may be an option for you for your big brake kit.

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I do owe him a email back on a few other things.
:hmm:
I’ve been so busy lately. It’s hard to get back to everyone.
 
New seats are here. Really like the color and the vinyl feels like leather. It’s definitely a step up in apparent quality from the Pro Car scouts in my 40. Going to swap to tan door cards eventually too. I think they’re actually cheaper than a set of the pro cars if you don’t get seat heaters. The pro cars are very comfy though, hopefully these will be the same!

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Made a little frame to adapt the OEM slider onto the bottom of the drivers side seat and got it in. Gained a few more inches of legroom and that definitely helped with the pedal ergonomics, but I really think the shift cane is going to have to get heated and bent. Reverse is just all up on my leg. I probably added 2-3in of height, which helped with leg angle, but the trade off is I can’t see stop lights without stooping. Seat height and position is such trial and error! I do like them better so far than my pro cars in my for, at least after 20 miles or so.

The passenger side will have to wait till after I swap motors as it’ll be a bit more of a challenge also incorporating a center console.

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Once its moved bac a bit, I find trying to rotate seat helps. Higher in the frt and lower the back.
 
Well now I’ve gone and complicated things further. I picked up a full float rear fj62 axle that appears to have the internal parking brakes. One of my thoughts for not using my newly sealed and rebuilt transfer case and h55 was that with the tcase mounted parking brake, it will interfere with the fuel tank. Without the case mounted brake that problem doesn’t appear to be an issue. Then again if I swapped to rear discs, I’d wish I had the tcase mounted brake. Why do I do this to myself?!
 
Tooling up for my power steering conversion and have a couple of questions-

I have the large pattern steering arms with 12mm studs on my truck. Am I correct that these are the same as 60/62 arms? If not what is the difference? Is it just the TRE taper?

On my 40 I used the HD arms from specter, which are really nice and actually affordable. I reamed these to use GM tie rod ends for the whole kit. For this I’d like to stay all Toyota, a since I don’t need to swap knuckles, preferably keep the arms I’ve got, especially sine the knuckles were just rebuilt.

No doubt my existing tie rod ends are are pretty shot. I’ve actually got a complete set of 40 ends in a box. So- should/can I ream my arms to use 80 tre ends all around and just keep it simple from that standpoint? Plenty of kits out there to do a complete DOM steering setup using 80 tres everywhere and most parts stores are way more likely to have those on a shelf than a 40 end.

Or, is there enough meat in the 40 “link end” (I understand these are referred to as different things, but the tie rod end that links the tie rod and drag link) to ream out for just 80 TREs on the drag link? I’ve never seen an 80 end to compare how much reaming it would take. I’m not a rock crawler, so the 80 ends are probably an overkill strength upgrade, but I do Offroad and I’ve bent a stock tie rod on my 40, so I like the idea of using dom everywhere.
 
Opened up the power steering pump today and everything looked good inside so I didn’t take it any further. I got a seal kit from cruiser outfitters for “60 series” and it didn’t have the right O ring for the main body, so I just rushed the old one since it appeared to be totally fine. Curious that the hj61 pump would be any different since it looks exactly the same as a 60.

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Have next Friday marked as engine pull day. Getting really pumped.

I’ve got a stack of upgrades coming in addition to the new powerplant:

- picked up my full floating rear axle today. This is a more long term project, but will be putting a harrop locker and selectable hubs to get it setup for flat towing. Plan to do a full rebuild and stick with drums for now. I’ve got the gm brakes on the rear of my 40 and feel like the setup is pretty hokey.

- 80 series PS gear, bought a “new” lares unit. Ordering a steering kit from @cruisermatt for the rest of the setup. Ordered new lines from summit racing, OEM low pressure fitting and OEM PS remote reservoir. Also bought a nice 16in 70 series steering wheel to give me some more leg room.

Come to think of it, my hj61 bellhousing clocks the transmission away from the driver side, so wondering how this will translate to the shifter position? I can see it requiring some adjustment at the transmission cross member. Not really sure how I’m going to tackle that yet. Maybe some cut down axle shims?

- tundra big brake front disc kit, also from @cruisermatt . Think I need to get a new master cylinder

- splurge buy- ordered the full terrain tamer parabolic suspension kit from @orangefj45 . What a delight that Georg is to work with. Truly a student of customer service. And I’ve heard nothing but glowing reviews of the kit.

A transformation is coming that’s for sure!
 
I put 60 axles in my LX. It was a fantastic improvement over the market 40 series axles. The width makes it track far better on the road as it's closer to the width of modern traffic. This means that your wheels will not have to choose between the two ruts in the road as they'll fit into them.

I really waved to do exactly what you're doing on my 43: big brake front, 60 series rear. But full floater 60 series axles aren't as easy to come by here as they were when I still lived in Australia.

Are your seats Corbeau? That's what I put in my son's Camaro. I ordered them with the thinner seat bottom, which helped a lot (I'm 6'6"). Looking at yours, I believe I'll have to do the same thing on my 43.
 
Chamba said:
I put 60 axles in my LX. It was a fantastic improvement over the market 40 series axles. The width makes it track far better on the road as it's closer to the width of modern traffic. This means that your wheels will not have to choose between the two ruts in the road as they'll fit into them.

I really waved to do exactly what you're doing on my 43: big brake front, 60 series rear. But full floater 60 series axles aren't as easy to come by here as they were when I still lived in Australia.

Are your seats Corbeau? That's what I put in my son's Camaro. I ordered them with the thinner seat bottom, which helped a lot (I'm 6'6"). Looking at yours, I believe I'll have to do the same thing on my 43.
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Yes mine are Corbeau, though at least on the website I couldn’t order the shaved bottom. I used a piece of 1in square tube to attach the brackets to the seat bottom that I’m going to remove and figure out how to use a piece of flat instead. I’m 6’3 so not quite as tall, but do currently feel like I’m too high and looking at the sun visors. I might just take the sun visors off like I did in my 40. That felt like it gave me back an inch.
 
The great bolt soak is on! Going to get started pulling the motor tomorrow. After closely examining everything while on my lift, man the terrain tamer suspension just went from a luxury to much more of a necessity. All of my leaf springs, which I assume are original, are eating into each other. Some of them are getting pretty thin!

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Drive shafts are out, coolant is drained, shifters, parking brake, and most electrics are disconnected. I think I’ve got a window tomorrow to try and yank the whole shebang. It’s happening!
 
Planning my attack on the fuel system since my tank is leaking and I’m replacing it. Looking at the schematics I realize my truck has an evaporative fuel vapor setup. Going to diesel, should I eliminate this?
 
That is what I would do. On the other hand I doubt leaving it hooked up would cause any problems.
 
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