Fan Clutch/Water Pump Install

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

craigster

craigster

Joined
Jun 16, 2004
Threads
7
Messages
25
Location
Fillmore,Ca.
I was going to pull my radiator and install a new fan clutch and wanted to know what else to do while I was in there besides thermostat, water pump, and belts. Also, Ive seen it mentioned about a fan clutch / waterpump combo but I haven't found anyone who sells them together. Also, what's the best way to pull the radiator. I've pulled it before from the inside of the compartment but one of the manuals mentions going in from the front (pulling off the grill). Is one way easier than the other?
 
fan clutch/waterpump

Hi,

The fan clutch and waterpump are sold separatley, and you'll have to purchase them that way. Consider budget/miles/etc before just buying both. They are irritating to replace, but not that hard. Well, that's not quite accurate...the fan clutch is way easier than the water pump. If your cruiser has high miles, and you're doing a major "cooling system" overhaul, I'd recommend replacing the waterpump. You have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it, and if you are removing it anyway (which it sounds like you are) then the extra $50 is worth it.

Make sure to check (and replace) all of the various hoses to the radiator, waterpump, oil cooler, etc.

Also, make sure you have ALL of the gaskets. There are two for the thermostat, one for the thermostate housing and one for the waterpump.

Also, the nuts on the fan clutch are easy to loose. Have a magnetic wand nearby...it'll help to retreive them when you drop them.

Finally - use OEM Toyota parts. They're way better. Overengineered, like the rest of a cruiser. I used an aftermarket fan clutch, and it failed after 18 months (15,000 miles). Got a OEM one to replace it with, the the difference was amazing. Nearly twice the weight, thicker, beefier all around.

I haven't had to pull my radiator, so unfortunatly I can't help you on that one.

HTH
 
WHile you are in there I would replqac the belts, unless they are newer. There are 2 or 3 hoses that go from the WP to the oil cooler that should be replaced. If you see any oil "dust' or actual leaks on the ft of the motor consider replacing the timing gear cover and seal. Check the little freeze plug down on the ft right. I use OEM clutches but have been very happy with NAPA NEW WPs. Have the rad boiled out while you are at it. Check that the belt idler pullies are in good shape. Clean them or replace them. It takes a while but is not all that hard; the second time you do it!
 
actaully Toyota offers a fan clutch/waterpump combo(for a fj62) for a bit less then if bought seperate.
 
I have gotten to the point I buy new nuts as well as holding the mag right next to the nuts when I loosen them..............still I drop em.........to be found on the frame or someplace years latter ;)

lovetoski said:
Hi,


Also, the nuts on the fan clutch are easy to loose. Have a magnetic wand nearby...it'll help to retreive them when you drop them.

F

HTH
Click to expand...
 
zander said:
What all all do you have to take out to replace the fan clutch? (just about to do this)
Click to expand...

Remove fan shroud.
Loosen 4 nuts on back of fan clutch (don't remove yet)
Loosen belts (not essential, but easier later)
Remove 4 nuts, remove fan clutch.
Remove fan from clutch

Like many others, I drop the nuts when removing/replacing. Extra's are good. A magnetic probe is also super helpful to retreive them. It can also be used in place of fingers to get the nut in place to start turning it. Locate in place w/mag probe, then use fingertip to spin the nut on the stud. Works great.
 
I highly sudjest doing the fan shroud mod........which is cutting it 2 peices.

3pits said:
I am in the process, I prefer pulling the radiator to get to the fan, the shroud chews up my forearms,,,
Click to expand...
 
I can see why you would want the shroud in two pieces. I was actually able to to get the fan clutch out with out removing it... I just removed the bolts so it could float out of the way enough, but it was a very tight squeeze past the cooling hose to the thermostat. My forarms are scratched up from unbolting and rebolting withit in as well.

The downside is that it does not seem to have affected the cooling in the engine at all. It still climbs dangerously towards the red on long uphill ascents or even cruising at faster highway speeds. I guess i will check for a blown head gasket next.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom