Folks up stairs going to our bonus room dad & I cut a hole in the wall for better access to the attic, originally we were going to have our cabinet maker build a simple door that would match but thats a whole other thread.
Now I have a hole going into the attic covered in plastic & I would like to close it up.... thought a false bookcase would be easy & functional.
Basically you would push on the shelves & a piano hinge would allow it to go back into the attic.
Anyone build one or have one in their home..... how thick of wood did you use or any tricks you learned building one???
Do an internet search, found several sources including special hinges (SASS) to make it work. Lots of information available. Waiting for our house to be finished so I can build my own.
We have done quite a few of these details. Great way to hide a hidden space for whatever one might wish to hide. Gun rooms, wine cellars, safe room, or simply a space for crap that need not be seen. You can build the book cases on either side with the center unit being the one to be pushed into the space. The base toe kick can conceal the small casters that will allow for a heavy book case to move. The hinges then don't need to be anything special and can be set from the rear interior space. The style on the two sides can stay attached to the side cabinets for a clean look. Thus the only break in the millwork will be the toe kick.
I don't have pics cause I am lazy! But if I can find one, I will post it up.
I would suggest using furniture grade plywood from home depot. cost effective. They have 1/2 and 3/4. basically use double thickness and build your boxes out of that. Glue and pin it all up and then build your face frames. Atttach the face frames to the boxes up front and tht will cover all the edges of the cut plywood. This will yield a few boxes that will not move around a lot and be quite solid. Light in cabinetry is nothing but future trouble. Especially if you are planning to load the movable section with junk and then move it.
My 2 cents...
The pics will need to be rotated, but it might give you an idea of what I am talking about.
If you are unclear as to how to do the face frames, look closely at the pics and know that it is clear flat 1by stock ripped to the desired width. Then use what is called a Kreg Jig set up. It will hold the pieces together and allow you to drill an anlged hole behind the joint. By far the best tool you can buy. If you have a carpenter bud, he will most likely have one for you to borrow.
