F@&!ing Alternator Belt (1 Viewer)

[RiverRatMatt]

F@&!ing Alternator/Serpentine Belt

GF's 2003 V6 Tacoma has had a squeeky belt ever since I changed them a few months ago. I determined it was the alternator/serpentine belt, so I got a new one. Finally got around to putting it on yesterday, and first appearances on startup were squeek-free.

However, I just took it for a drive today and it squeeks like a motherf*cker every time the RPMs drop below 1k.

So how do I get this thing tight? Myy gf's brother was over yesterday and so I had him hold the alternator as tight as he could while I torqued down a bolt to hold it in place. I did this by taking a piece of paracord and wrapping it underneath/behind the alternator and having him pull from the driver's side.
I knew it wasn't as tight as I'd like it, but its the tightest I've been able to get it. I'm to the point of propping my Hi-Lift on her tire and hooking a rope to the damn thing and jacking it.

I know there has to be a better way..... help......

 

[RiverRatMatt]

I looked at the issue again with new eyes... decided maybe I could leverage the alternator somewhere.

So I grabbed one of my cheater bars and wedged it in between the alternator and the metal section of radiator hose near where it meets the block. I then rage-leveraged (like leveraging but with added rage) the alternator over and tightened with the other hand. I had to tighten the 14mm at the top as well as the 12mm at the bottom for it to hold tight.

Some pics:

 

[Sam Stewart]

I always just used a big pry bar and put enough pressure to get it tight.

 

[40Habits]

The alternator bracket has an adjustment bolt on the bottom side that controls the tension. You should not need a pry bar.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Gates makes good belts, however I have better luck with the Toyota-Mitsubishi. Mike

 

[KayakPanic]

I always use a pry bar. I have found that the extender for the factory towing tools (behind the drivers seat on the wall of the cab) works great because it has a hook on one end for "rage leverage", and is thin enough to get into tight spots while bending some during leveraging so you know when you are really getting after it.

I always access the alt for pry behind the oil dipstick with yhe opposite end of the prybar ending up above the battery.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

The alternator bracket has an adjustment bolt on the bottom side that controls the tension. You should not need a pry bar.

I'll take a feel and see if I can find anything like that (I take it you mean something like this on a 1st gen?). I haven't ever seen or felt anything like that on a Toyota though...

Btw, is there anything bad about leaving the fan shroud off?

 

[40Habits]

The tensioner is on the right as you are facing the engine. You can see it on the attached picture.

Leaving the fan shroud off will decrease the air flow. It will effect it at slow speeds where the fan pulls air across the radiator. It just won't be as affective.

 

[sseaman]

Some of the after markets belts squeak bad, try a gatorback or factory belt

 

[ken_79-fj40]

The alternator bracket has an adjustment bolt on the bottom side that controls the tension. You should not need a pry bar.

Exactly. I've changed the belts on a few of these. In fact the adjustment bolt on my 00 4Runner broke a few years back. But I didn't have any trouble carefully tensioning it with a prybar. When I do the next timing belt I'll probably fix the tensioner.

 

[lehiguy]

Loosen the pinch bolt, the one that faces the front, then tighten the adjustment bolt, the one that faces the driver's side fender. Then tighten the pinch bolt again. No lever needed.

 

[RiverRatMatt]

I looked on her Alternator Bracket and it is as pictured above. Unfortunately that bolt and nut have gone missing...
I can't find a place where I can get one either :/

 

[40Habits]

The bolt threads into the bracket. So all you would need is a 3" 1.25 M8 bolt. You could pick one up at most hardware stores.