Extreme battery issues

[bkmc24]

So I cannot seem to find anything anywhere. I've googled and searched the FAQ as well as the known issues stuff.

My 98 drains it's battery like nothing I have ever seen. It initially started every time I locked the doors and left it for a day, it would be dead. I have read the security system is a bastard and drains heavily so I stopped locking the doors. Today, I worked all day, even drove to lunch, and the cold weather combined with the draining killed it again. It's a brand new battery so I know that isn't the issue given tests and everything. Anyone know anything about this issue or have experience with it or advice where to start? I bought a solar trickle charger and rewired everything so I can wire it to the terminals and route it into the can and have it switch activated every time I shut it off but that hopefully will help mask the problem I really need to solve.


Thanks in advance.

 

[uHu]

Start with the simple tests. What's your battery voltage at idle, and at operating RPM?
If it's ok, at 14.2 - 14.4 v, then What's the battery voltage 1/2 h later, with the battery disconnected?

The most likely failure point, beside the battery, is the alternator.

 

[Sandroad]

Did the problem start before or after the new battery? Even new ones can go bad, as happened to me.

 

[stonepa]

My 100 had none of those issues with the battery. I could leave it for very long extended periods with no issues. I used the heavy duty version of the Toyota True Start battery.

 

[RND1]

Is the headlight switch left on the "Auto" position or dome lights on the "door" position. I'm having a similar problem and I think this is the cause of the draw on the battery. I installed the heavy duty true start one month ago and my LC has died twice now.

 

[onpoint01]

You need to find out which circuit is draining the batt. Take a multimeter and connect it in series between the positive post of the batt and positive cable. You shouldn't be pulling more then .030 Milli Amps with the truck off and all lights off. If you are, then start pulling fuses until the current draw drops. This will be one of the circuits that could have a short or problem of some sort that will need to be troubleshot.

 

[uHu]

You need to find out which circuit is draining the batt. Take a multimeter and connect it in series between the positive post of the batt and positive cable. You shouldn't be pulling more then .030 Milli Amps with the truck off and all lights off. If you are, then start pulling fuses until the current draw drops. This will be one of the circuits that could have a short or problem of some sort that will need to be troubleshot.

Yes, there are several tests that can be done, but start with the most basic - Does it charge, and Does the battery hold the charge.

And, the number 30, should be milli Amps, or 0.03 Amps. And again, if something is draining, the most likely culprit is the alternator, and there is no normal fuse you can pull for that.

 

[RND1]

You need to find out which circuit is draining the batt. Take a multimeter and connect it in series between the positive post of the batt and positive cable. You shouldn't be pulling more then .030 Milli Amps with the truck off and all lights off. If you are, then start pulling fuses until the current draw drops. This will be one of the circuits that could have a short or problem of some sort that will need to be troubleshot.

I've done this with a test light and the "Short" and "BAT" fuses are the circuit that causes the draw. Any ideas where to go from here?

 

[PADDO]

You need to find out which circuit is draining the batt. Take a multimeter and connect it in series between the positive post of the batt and positive cable. You shouldn't be pulling more then .030 Milli Amps with the truck off and all lights off. If you are, then start pulling fuses until the current draw drops. This will be one of the circuits that could have a short or problem of some sort that will need to be troubleshot.

It will pull around 150mA with the dome relay cct energized, and drop back to 30mA when the done cct goes quiescent.

 

[Mike6158]

I've done this with a test light and the "Short" and "BAT" fuses are the circuit that causes the draw. Any ideas where to go from here?

How did you use a test light to determine current draw? I light is just an indicator of voltage

 

[RND1]

^ You wire the light in series just like you would do with a meter. If the light glows, you have a current draw. When I removed the fuses for short and bat, the light went out. Have to look in my FSM to see what circuits belong to those fuses.

 

[Mike6158]

That makes sense. It'll be interesting to find out what Short goes to BAT sounds like anything that is always hot, like a clock. Maybe someone wired a stereo amp or something like that to the wrong place?

 

[RND1]

Another Mud member had the same diagnosis - BAT circuit was causing the draw. He said it led to the radio, but I haven't confirmed that yet. On another forum, someone said the JBL amp is known to be a parasitic draw.

 

[LCBlackBeauty]

I'm now having the same problem :-(
Battery is brand new because it broke down on mean hour away. Had it towed to dealer who said it wasn't alternator, just battery. They have had it for 4 days now. I just picked it back up at dealer who said they couldn't find the problem. I got home (within 2 miles) and battery light is already on. Lights are dim.