Experience with rust repair needed - how deep will I have to go?

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So I know that the corners of the windshield are rusted and leaking water into the car along the firewall. I've caulked them up pretty well temporarily but I am still getting loads of water on the driver's side running down over/behind the fuse box. In replacing the antenna this weekend, I noticed a curved area on the left side of the inner body that has a rusty seam, presumably where the wheel well meets the tub but it may be the lower portion of the cowl. I can remove the metal piece under the wipers with screws but that doesn't allow me to reach or see the corners of where the water actually drains to under the grills in front of the windscreen. I assume that this is what is rusted out on my car as I can see a caulked seam when the bonnet is open about six inches down from the wiper area that is showing rust through the seam. It looks like the two pieces are also spot welded together. Is there a way to visualize this area without removing the top piece of sheet metal under the cowl which looks quite involved? If someone could direct me to a good thread that shows all of these areas so I can understand how it is put together better, I would be most appreciative.

Cheers,
Rich
 
With a picture to explain my questions

How does water leak from here into the car footwell down behind or directly onto the fuse box?

Thanks,
Rich

DSC01434.jpg


DSC00997-1.jpg
 
Those are my pics, and I know where the rust on that piece was. It can either come from the top of the firewall, underneath the fold down windshield (if you have one) or on the flat top part of the firewall.

OR

See the area where the end cap is removed in the second pic. The seam below the three holes below the hammer handle where I drilled out the spot welds to the 3 holes to the left, that horizontal seam was rusted. Water collects here from the windshield, and the cowl screen. It is supposed to drain out the end. This would be directly above the fusebox on a LHD vehicle.

You would see this area easily with the left side apron removed. Otherwise, you won't see it
 
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parts removal for access

Thanks for the reply. So to get to it, I need to remove the fender and the door and the cowl cover and the windshield and then that end cap. Once I'm in, a bit of cleaning and welding should stop it? Drilling spot welds isn't going to be an option - they'll be grinding and cutting with fairly primitive tools. I don't have my own work space out here so I want to understand the job well before it disappears into someone's $5 an hour body shop (don't really have a better option out here). Can everything be repaired well enough so it won't leak for a few years with the dash in place from the firewall side? Once we move back to the US I can strip it all down properly. The truck lives literally 50 meters from the ocean now so any water going into the body is full of salt making it imperative that I stop the seepage into the all the areas I can't rinse properly.

Cheers,
Rich
 
Sorry to jump in on this, however i think im in a similar situation. i dont want to take out the dash so would i need to take off the front guards/fenders and do similar, pics as follows:







 
Thanks for the reply. So to get to it, I need to remove the fender and the door and the cowl cover and the windshield and then that end cap. Once I'm in, a bit of cleaning and welding should stop it? Drilling spot welds isn't going to be an option - they'll be grinding and cutting with fairly primitive tools. I don't have my own work space out here so I want to understand the job well before it disappears into someone's $5 an hour body shop (don't really have a better option out here). Can everything be repaired well enough so it won't leak for a few years with the dash in place from the firewall side? Once we move back to the US I can strip it all down properly. The truck lives literally 50 meters from the ocean now so any water going into the body is full of salt making it imperative that I stop the seepage into the all the areas I can't rinse properly.

Cheers,
Rich

You can get to it with just the Apron off. You will completely destroy that endcap grinding the spot welds. There are more than just 6.

Look under the dash at that seam. There may be a quick fix until you get to the states
 
I hate that you've got that level of rust in your truck but I appreciate the pics as I can now see exactly where all of the holes are. Good luck with the repair.

best,
Rich
 
Exactly which part is the apron? I apologize for my lack of experience. I've removed the top piece that the wiper arm pivots attach to that is held in by screws but it doesn't really reveal anything else. I have just the beginnings of rust visible in the seam that the previous poster shows close to the brake master cylinder. I assume I could also just cut into the top part of that and remove enough metal to allow space to repair the rusted out part of the firewall there that is just over the fuse box.
 
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Exactly which part is the apron? I apologize for my lack of experience. I've removed the top piece that the wiper arm pivots attach to that is held in by screws but it doesn't really reveal anything else. I have just the beginnings of rust visible in the seam that the previous poster shows close to the brake master cylinder. I assume I could also just cut into the top part of that and remove enough metal to allow space to repair the rusted out part of the firewall there that is just over the fuse box.

The apron is the top part of the fender. I have the BJ74 firewall that I took out. May be able to cut some rust repair panels out of it. Time consuming , but it could make your job easier once you know what you need
 
Apron and repair pieces

Ah got it. I believe that the LJ has a one piece fender, at least on mine there is no seam like I've seen on other trucks between the flat portion of the fender immediately over the wheel and the upper portion that bolts up under the bonnet. Hopefully I will have my Pajero back from the shop (had to ship a glow plug relay from Dubai) in the next few days, at which point I will be able to start disassembly. I appreciate your offer of parts immensely and will be in touch. I am rapidly becoming comfortable with employing an interim fix, leaving the gold standard until I have better repair infrastructure. I have enough Por-15 that I should be able to stop whatever rust I can get access to. Caulk and some soda pop cans are readily available :).

Best,
Rich
 
How does water exit the cowl and windshield drains when everything works correctly?

In looking at the pictures from Shes Mad's BJ with the endcap removed, t looks like there is a bowl of some sort under the cowl vents, then another piece of sheet metal under it that separates it from the inside of the car. With the end cap on in the other picture, there is small diamond shaped gap in the bottom of the cap. Is this where water exits the car when everything is put together properly? Does it just run down the side of the firewall inside the apron/wing/fender?
 
In looking at the pictures from Shes Mad's BJ with the endcap removed, t looks like there is a bowl of some sort under the cowl vents, then another piece of sheet metal under it that separates it from the inside of the car. With the end cap on in the other picture, there is small diamond shaped gap in the bottom of the cap. Is this where water exits the car when everything is put together properly? Does it just run down the side of the firewall inside the apron/wing/fender?

Supposed to run out the diamond shaped opening
 
Sorry to jump in on this, however i think im in a similar situation. i dont want to take out the dash so would i need to take off the front guards/fenders and do similar, pics as follows:







Strick,
I'm in the same trouble, looking for ay kind of information I can possibly get.
Would you mind posting your pics again?
The photobucket account isn't working.
Thanks Ralf
 

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