About to purchase the Engnbldr rebuild kit 2.4 litre with a 268c rv camshaft added for my 89 toyota pickup 22re and it is asking for piston sizes and bearing sizes??? Idk what which ones I need? Anyone help?
Engnbldr 22re rebuild kit on ebay
- Thread starter trenton yota king
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It depends on if your motor right now as we speak is stock.... Has it had the crank turned or the cylinders bored??? Are you planning to have either bored or turned down?? The issue is you need to tear it apart first and see the extent of the repair in order to truly know which you need. If you are just looking to roll bearings in a stock motor and you are assuming the cylinder walls are not too worn then you want standard bearings and pistons....
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- #3
What is the stock size for pistons and bearings? In 90% sure previous owners gave the motor no love or attention. I'll prolly just buy whatever the stock size is. Can always send them back if they don't fit
Just my $.02 but like wagon said, you may want to wait and see what you are dealing with. If the motor is as bad as you think then you may need to have some machine work done which will affect what your piston and bearing sizes are.
Are you doing this yourself? I am by no means a full time mechanic, but based on your question it sounds like you need to do more reading or enlist some help or you may end up with an expensive boat anchor.
I ordered a overhaul kit from EB for a current project, but i waited and let the machinist tell me what i needed before i ordered.
Good luck,
Are you doing this yourself? I am by no means a full time mechanic, but based on your question it sounds like you need to do more reading or enlist some help or you may end up with an expensive boat anchor.
I ordered a overhaul kit from EB for a current project, but i waited and let the machinist tell me what i needed before i ordered.
Good luck,
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- #5
Alright thanks man I will wait. I was goin to try and do it myself. Got all the tools an u guys so y not?? But did u have a mechanic do it?if so how much it cost ya?
A rebuilt motor (long block which inlcudes head) can be purchased with a BIG warranty for 900 - 1100. The 1100 motors even come with flywheel and clutch.... Honestly it makes it very tough to compete with doing it yourself especially if any machine work is required!! I only tackle motors myself if when I get them apart all looks well, mic's out, and I can get away with simply freshening them up.....
But to answer your question specifically you shouldnt need a size so to speak.... What you are looking for is if it is standard, .010 over, .020 over, .030 over etc. and that goes for both the bearings and the pistons. Once you take them apart and you pull a crank bearing you will see STD or .010 or something like that stamped into the underside. Pistons I can not remember where they stamp them. There is a lot to it.... I am not trying to scare you off I pulled it off about 11 years ago when I was a teenager and so it isnt rocket science but even though I plastigauged everything I could, checked rolling resistance, etc. I was still guessing at a lot of things..... And I probably had 350 in it and still didnt have a fresh valve job or anything.
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- #8
Alright thanks man. Gave me Alot to think about. Were u live in Oregon? I live over in baker city
Just south of Roseburg on I-5 West side. I worked in Baker for a couple years just a month at a time. I ground the freeway on I think its called Ladd Mtn????? It was that steap hill just south of you. Hardest Asphalt I ever touched!!! You are a lucky guy I love it over there!! I use to stay at the best western I think it was and pop the hotel window screen out and shoot at digger squirrels all evening with a pellet gun.... 
DON'T try and do this cheep, if money is an issue than save your cash until you can afford a good QUILTY rebuild. I don't care what engine you are rebuilding it will cost at least $1000.00. Only a machine shop can bore blocks and turn cranks. Tear down the engine in the correct way, take the block, crank, rods and head to a good QUILTY machine shop and tell them to do want is necessary in regards to machine work. The machine shop will tell you what they over bored the cylinders to and turned the crank to, then order your parts based on the new bore size and crank size, then take your new pistons to the machine as they will hone the cylinders to the pistons as well as size the connecting rods and fit the pistons to the rods. The head is another story, some including me will recommend a new head, the reason is that they are prone to warping and cracking, a brand new head can be purchased from engine builder with a complete valve train for a reasonable price, a bit mor gets you one with larger valves and ports. I just rebuilt my 22RE using engine builder parts including his big valve head with RV cam, it is worth the extra cash. Machine work cost me about $400.00 plus parts. I can not stress enough how important it is to do this correct, if you don't you will be plagued with problems. I am a fan of DIY, I know what parts were used and that the job was done correctly, plus my labor, remove and install, is free. Oh and you might as well remove the injectors and have them cleaned too. Good luck!
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Very very wise words.
It's good to know what you're diving into before you jump.
A bottom-end rebuild is a pretty easy street, but a whole engine rebuild can be tricky, especially considering many of our trucks are on their second, third, and fourth owners, and we may not have the full disclosure on what all they did.
Best of luck.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks flash. Great help man. Obliviously more work then just buyin the rebuild kit and DVD off eBay!lol
Wagon ya it is lad the hill that goes from baker to la grande u help put in those little heating strips?? Ya lots of squirrels and cyotes, I even bait my cyotes in with the deal squirrels and a call. It's a good time
Wagon ya it is lad the hill that goes from baker to la grande u help put in those little heating strips?? Ya lots of squirrels and cyotes, I even bait my cyotes in with the deal squirrels and a call. It's a good time