Engine block paint colors (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

The problem I have seen often is Toyota didn’t clean the oil off it before spraying black. So the paint isn’t adhered at all. You can usually scrape it off with a finger nail when it is like this.

I have gotten a few (usually long blocks) that are good enough to just scuff and paint. Everyone needs paint though because if it does have good paint there is lots of missed areas.

Like I say you don’t have to go to bare metal if it is adhered well. A scuff and spray though is worth the effort when you have it bare and taped off like you do. We have had good luck with VHT high temp engine paint as long as prep is good and things are clean before spraying.

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

I would also degrease before scuffing the existing paint.
Clean with brake clean, or wax and grease remover before and after so you don't embed grease in the paint, and so you get good adhesion of the new paint.

 

[csanders]

The problem I have seen often is Toyota didn’t clean the oil off it before spraying black. So the paint isn’t adhered at all. You can usually scrape it off with a finger nail when it is like this.

I have gotten a few (usually long blocks) that are good enough to just scuff and paint. Everyone needs paint though because if it does have good paint there is lots of missed areas.

Like I say you don’t have to go to bare metal if it is adhered well. A scuff and spray though is worth the effort when you have it bare and taped off like you do. We have had good luck with VHT high temp engine paint as long as prep is good and things are clean before spraying.

Cheers

I would also degrease before scuffing the existing paint.
Clean with brake clean, or wax and grease remover before and after so you don't embed grease in the paint, and so you get good adhesion of the new paint.

That is super helpful, thanks. There are definitely some light spots around the oil cooler, AC bracket, and oil filter housing locations. I finished masking everything off and hit it with some brake clean, let it dry, and then gave everything a good once over with a brass brush. The factory paint is still holding on there pretty good, but I was able to scuff a light layer off. No peeling or flaking. I hit it again with brake clean and compressed air and I'll head to the hardware store tomorrow to get some high-temp engine paint. Would just paint suffice or would you hit it with a high-temp engine primer first and then paint?

Whether you've spent the coin on a new block or you've put the time into rebuilding an old block, you want it to look good and hold up over time. Just wanting to make sure I'm going about it the right way.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Would just paint suffice or would you hit it with a high-temp engine primer first and then paint?

Read the label on the can. Follow recommendations.

If you think there's bare iron, I would use an etch primer first.
Best to stick to one brand for everything, so you're using a system of products from the same product line.

 

[SNLC]

That is super helpful, thanks. There are definitely some light spots around the oil cooler, AC bracket, and oil filter housing locations. I finished masking everything off and hit it with some brake clean, let it dry, and then gave everything a good once over with a brass brush. The factory paint is still holding on there pretty good, but I was able to scuff a light layer off. No peeling or flaking. I hit it again with brake clean and compressed air and I'll head to the hardware store tomorrow to get some high-temp engine paint. Would just paint suffice or would you hit it with a high-temp engine primer first and then paint?

Whether you've spent the coin on a new block or you've put the time into rebuilding an old block, you want it to look good and hold up over time. Just wanting to make sure I'm going about it the right way.

Any auto parts store should have VHT. Use high temp, hardware store generally don’t carry high temp “engine” paint. I have also seen a new Raptor brand high temp engine primer and paint at the auto parts store. Haven’t tried it yet though.

The problem with brake cleaner in prep is it destroys paint. So what is on your block is now probably soft and mushy from the brake cleaner. We only use an automotive paint prep wax & grease remover before paint. Alcohol based so any chemicals evaporate before paint. This way you can say wipe between a coat of primer and a coat of paint with no damage to the primer. Brake cleaner, again, destroys paint and can leave a chemical residue. Save it for cleaning your brakes.

My advice

Cheers

 

[Marvelicious]

Any auto parts store should have VHT. Use high temp, hardware store generally don’t carry high temp “engine” paint. I have also seen a new Raptor brand high temp engine primer and paint at the auto parts store. Haven’t tried it yet though.

The problem with brake cleaner in prep is it destroys paint. So what is on your block is now probably soft and mushy from the brake cleaner. We only use an automotive paint prep wax & grease remover before paint. Alcohol based so any chemicals evaporate before paint. This way you can say wipe between a coat of primer and a coat of paint with no damage to the primer. Brake cleaner, again, destroys paint and can leave a chemical residue. Save it for cleaning your brakes.

My advice

Cheers

Honestly, the big problem with brake cleaner is that there are several significantly different products all known as brake cleaner. The chlorinated stuff is different from the non-chlorinated which is different from the "eco friendly" stuff. Wax and grease remover is a no-brainer for paint. Brake cleaner is not.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Any auto parts store should have VHT. Use high temp, hardware store generally don’t carry high temp “engine” paint. I have also seen a new Raptor brand high temp engine primer and paint at the auto parts store. Haven’t tried it yet though.

The problem with brake cleaner in prep is it destroys paint. So what is on your block is now probably soft and mushy from the brake cleaner. We only use an automotive paint prep wax & grease remover before paint. Alcohol based so any chemicals evaporate before paint. This way you can say wipe between a coat of primer and a coat of paint with no damage to the primer. Brake cleaner, again, destroys paint and can leave a chemical residue. Save it for cleaning your brakes.

My advice

Cheers

I guess it depends on the brake cleaner?

Brake cleaner I typically use is the same petrochemical as automotive paint wax and grease remover I've used in the past. I looked at this when I was prepping my valve cover for paint.
Also, the same as Tar Spot remover which is for removing spots of finished paintwork.
All toluene.

i do know some brake cleaners aren't toluene

 

[csanders]

Any auto parts store should have VHT. Use high temp, hardware store generally don’t carry high temp “engine” paint. I have also seen a new Raptor brand high temp engine primer and paint at the auto parts store. Haven’t tried it yet though.

The problem with brake cleaner in prep is it destroys paint. So what is on your block is now probably soft and mushy from the brake cleaner. We only use an automotive paint prep wax & grease remover before paint. Alcohol based so any chemicals evaporate before paint. This way you can say wipe between a coat of primer and a coat of paint with no damage to the primer. Brake cleaner, again, destroys paint and can leave a chemical residue. Save it for cleaning your brakes.

My advice

Cheers

I noticed that after spraying the brake cleaner. Paint got soft and I had to wait for it to dry to keep working on it. Picked up some automotive paint prep spray with an alcohol base which is working well. Also grabbed some satin black engine enamel paint and engine primer both rated to 600°F. When you scuff longblocks that have decent paint, do you still go with the primer first and then paint? Again, I did not take it all the way down to bare cast iron. Primer directions say to remove loose paint until the surface is bare, and the paint just recommends using the primer first.

 

[Azca]

The primer is to protect the steel. Paint is to protect the primer. If no bare steel, just go with the paint.

 

[LTrain]

I used the POR-15 Engine Paint Kit in Aluminum. I've been super happy with it.

 

[csanders]

Hit some of the thin areas with some primer and then a few coats of Rustoleum 363568 Satin Black. Wanted to keep it stock-looking and I'm pretty stoked on the turnout. Appreciate the advice!