Well, everything so far has been normal - other than my nice "CD player" noise which hopefully only Brownbear knows about....
Today I had the '84 BJ60 Oil sprayed (By Rust Check)
When I picked it up all seemed fine, but on the drive home I noticed that my volt meter was a little on the low side - which when I first start up is normal - but it usually rests around 13V after a few minutes of driving. Today it seemed to be around 11V, and after quite a while of driving it got up to around 12V. I replaced both batteries with 27 series (900CCA) and they seem to be doing nicely.
After 35 minutes of driving to get home, I was still only around 12V. I got out my volt meter and at idle I had 12.16V at the battery, and the same at the B post on the alternator (this seems low to me). I would like to check voltage at the "F" post but I can't locate it on this alternator (where the "F" is it?). Now. Thinking down that road, the voltage DOES rise as I rev the engine up, and then fall again as I let off. (however, not all that high -maybe 12.5V) -does this indicate a bad voltage regulator?
On to the next wierdness. Turn signals/brake lights. The standard brakelights come on with turn signals etc... so I read up here and go out to clean the bulbs/sockets and check the grounds. Bulb sockets checked out perfectly clean, no corrosion at all. Same with the bulbs. Now, when I got the truck I noticed two wires, coming from the tail light area, into the tailgate area, with ring connectors (doesn't look stock). They were not connected and everything worked fine. Just for giggles, I decided to hook one of them up - guess what. Everything is fine now (lighting wise) Just for clarity, these are not the wires that ground the tailgate to the body, but they are using the same screws (now). Can anyone think of ANY reason why this would have been done and then UN-done??
The other change that seemed to happen was with my glow system, it used to be that the "glow" light - which I know is really just a useless light - would come on for 3 seconds or so. I would watch the volt meter and listen for the relay to "click", then I would start. It probably took about 10 seconds for the "click" Now the "glow" light just barely comes on by the time it goes out, and the relay is taking about 20 seconds to "click"... FWIW, it is about 10°C WARMER today than the past few days.
What sense does this make?
Is there any way that the rust proofing oil could be doing this or is it all total coincidence???
Today I had the '84 BJ60 Oil sprayed (By Rust Check)
When I picked it up all seemed fine, but on the drive home I noticed that my volt meter was a little on the low side - which when I first start up is normal - but it usually rests around 13V after a few minutes of driving. Today it seemed to be around 11V, and after quite a while of driving it got up to around 12V. I replaced both batteries with 27 series (900CCA) and they seem to be doing nicely.
After 35 minutes of driving to get home, I was still only around 12V. I got out my volt meter and at idle I had 12.16V at the battery, and the same at the B post on the alternator (this seems low to me). I would like to check voltage at the "F" post but I can't locate it on this alternator (where the "F" is it?). Now. Thinking down that road, the voltage DOES rise as I rev the engine up, and then fall again as I let off. (however, not all that high -maybe 12.5V) -does this indicate a bad voltage regulator?
On to the next wierdness. Turn signals/brake lights. The standard brakelights come on with turn signals etc... so I read up here and go out to clean the bulbs/sockets and check the grounds. Bulb sockets checked out perfectly clean, no corrosion at all. Same with the bulbs. Now, when I got the truck I noticed two wires, coming from the tail light area, into the tailgate area, with ring connectors (doesn't look stock). They were not connected and everything worked fine. Just for giggles, I decided to hook one of them up - guess what. Everything is fine now (lighting wise) Just for clarity, these are not the wires that ground the tailgate to the body, but they are using the same screws (now). Can anyone think of ANY reason why this would have been done and then UN-done??
The other change that seemed to happen was with my glow system, it used to be that the "glow" light - which I know is really just a useless light - would come on for 3 seconds or so. I would watch the volt meter and listen for the relay to "click", then I would start. It probably took about 10 seconds for the "click" Now the "glow" light just barely comes on by the time it goes out, and the relay is taking about 20 seconds to "click"... FWIW, it is about 10°C WARMER today than the past few days.
What sense does this make?
Is there any way that the rust proofing oil could be doing this or is it all total coincidence???
