E-Z oil drain update (1 Viewer)

[firensteel]

Installed an E-Z oil drain 10k miles ago and just got the chance to use it for the first oil/filter change. Wow, here are some pics. I screwed the extension tube to the drain valve and slowly opened the drain into my catch bucket. Fantastic, great to be able to regulate the drain speed with NO splashing!!
Mine is a 2012 so I have the cartridge filter and a few years ago upgraded to a metal filter holder and kept the Toyota plastic holder as a spare. It is a good idea to use the plastic insert with a length of 5/8 inch hose to relieve the pressure before unscrewing the body!!! Saves a pressure spray of oil from messing up your day!!. The insert also releases the first of two O rings when removed. After the housing is removed you can see the filter and look thru the pleats for metal filings, I found a few on my first filter replacement at 5k miles and one or two since but none for a while, found one today. Now at 79,990 miles.
I may have to upload pics over two posts, lets see how many I can share here.

 

[firensteel]

And more pics to continue; I always have to use a screwdriver to remove the filter tool from the filter housing, tight fit!!
I like to use Kendal with liquid titanium 0w-20 full synthetic because it is not a rip-off and has worked well for me. Some guys I work with swear by Royal Purple but that seems a little pricey to me, like 3X the price for no real benefit. Last pic is all the tools I used. Will be leaving the factory skids off because tomorrow I want to do the Transmission fluid service and then install my new ARB skids.
Guys, I am sold on these E_Z Drain valves, wish they were around 30 years ago could have saved a lot of spilled oil removing those pan bolts over the years!!! Great job E-Z oil drain, big shout out here to you from me. Going to get one for my wife's Porsche Macan S .

 

[ryanCA]

I also have a 2012

Really worried about my first oil change
I work on all my own cars

But this whole cartridge filter scares me

 

[firensteel]

Here is my procedure, I went back to the blue room to find this. Easy really, take your time and buy everything ahead of time. Also look for youtube vids, there may be some. Heres mine:
Oil and filter change 2012 FJ My Procedure. Buy a Toyota oil filter cartridge, I got a box of 10 for $50 at trdparts4u.com. Might just be called Toyota of Dallas now. I did not have to pay shipping nor sales tax so the filters are $5 each. The box contains the cartridge and the 2 o-rings and a plastic grommet that fits 5/8 inch id hose. Buy 7 quarts minimum of 0W-20 full synthetic oil. Re-fill takes exactly 6.75 quarts. I buy Kendall GT-1 by the case and it comes to $5:50 each quart.

Buy a 10 pack of drain pan bolt gaskets too, I think they are 50cents each at trdparts4u. ( or buy an E-Z oil drain valve)

The procedure. park on level ground and set the parking brake. Remove the skid plates you have. If factory only the front one needs to be removed because there is a door in the engine pan skid to gain access to the drain plug. 12mm and 13mm sockets for the skid, 12mm for the oil drain cover and 14mm for the drain plug. Remove plug and drain oil. When done clean area and add new gasket to plug and re-install. Use 3/8 inch drive ratchet to remove center plug under filter, a little oil will drain from here but not under pressure. Add a length of 5/8 inch id hose to plastic fitting that came with the filter. Install this fitting into opening where you just removed the plug. Oil is under pressure here so aim hose into catch bucket. About 1/2 a quart will come out. Remove fitting by rocking to one side, at this point the first o-ring will come off with fitting. I clean and save the fitting and drain the hose to re-use next time. Use cartridge filter tool KD 3263, which is a 65mm wrench that also accepts your 3/8 inch drive ratchet with extension. You can see all these tools in my previous posts pics. Unsrew cartridge holder, be careful, Toyota thoughtfully made this piece out of plastic!! I replaced mine with a metal one some years ago. Remove cartridge. Use rags and clean holder, roll large o-ring up off holder and disregard. Oil new o-ring and roll into the groove on the holder. Install filter, either way up, and clean area at base of engine. Re-install filter and housing carefully by hand so as not to cross-thread. Tighten. Pop tool off with a screwdriver. Add 2 quarts of oil and get under vehicle to make sure there are no leaks. Add oil, total is 6.75 quarts. Check on dip stick. Run engine for 5 minutes. Shut off, check for leaks. Re-install all covers/skids. Torque specs. Oil drain plug=30ft/lbs. Filter plug =9ft/lbs, also tightens filter housing.

 

[ryanCA]

Thank you!!!!

 

[BMThiker]

Wow, I had no idea there was a change in oil capacity on the newer 1GR-FE engines. That explains the interval difference too.

2007-2009 is only 5.49 quarts + .32 for filter every 5,000 miles
2010+ jumps to 6.45 quarts + .42 for filter every 10,000 miles

 

[firensteel]

///That explains the interval difference too.///
I think the reason for the interval difference is the switch at that time to full synthetic oil. You will notice that it is also very low viscosity. New tighter tolerances in machining and less friction in the oil pan for the crank etc promotes the fuel economy. A further step that Toyota has not got to yet would be dry sump and remote oil pans. All these things aid in the fuel economy standards that manufacturers have to meet.... well unless those standards have been shot down now?