- Thread starter
- #21
If you're running a chevy axle its already 35spline inners.
Dumpinthegutters BLACK BETTY
- Thread starter Dumpinthegutter
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- Nov 22, 2010
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- www.kindredspiritscsg.com
Yeah, but they're not 4340.
Thats what I would be upgrading to.
Thats what I would be upgrading to.
- Thread starter
- #23
True, I had upgraded the outers and the drive flanges a while back, but it was 3411 or whatever stockers are. I'm excited to move up to the super joints as well.
I don't know if you know, but when you upgrade to 4340 yukon, you may have to clearance the knuckle or you grind the ears to slide them in. If you go with superjoints you may also have to die grind the holes on the axles to fit the superjoint caps.
I was told Yukon is aware of these issues and it in no way voids warranty.
I don't know if you know, but when you upgrade to 4340 yukon, you may have to clearance the knuckle or you grind the ears to slide them in. If you go with superjoints you may also have to die grind the holes on the axles to fit the superjoint caps.
I was told Yukon is aware of these issues and it in no way voids warranty.
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Thanks for letting me know, I think I read about the knuckles needing some clearancing.
But the caps needing more space was new.
Did you need to remove a lot of material when you opened up the holes?
But the caps needing more space was new.
Did you need to remove a lot of material when you opened up the holes?
- Thread starter
- #25
No, I just smoothed it out a little, but I also used a press. I've heard that if you just use a vice it's likely to break it. And just sledging them can be quite tough.
- Joined
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Also good to know.
I broke a 5 ton vise pressing my new bushings into my front leaf packs.
I now use a press whenever possible.
I broke a 5 ton vise pressing my new bushings into my front leaf packs.
I now use a press whenever possible.
- Thread starter
- #27
When I pulled the broken axle out the inner seal spring was wrapped about a bazillion times around the end of the axle. My local parts stores didn't have the seal so I had to order. That's why I didn't post the install yet.
Sweet walk through, thanks!
- Thread starter
- #30
You would think since Yukon makes the 4340's and the Super Joints that they would work flawlessly right out of the package. That is not the case so this post will be dedicated to the installation of Super Joints into the Yukon 4340 chromoly axle. There are several videos on this if you googled it so I won't get into too much detail. What you really need know is, the videos you see make this look like a little/ very minor filing to the axle and its simple. That is not the case. You will need to file the axle very good. I was told Yukon is aware of these issues and filing/grinding will not void the warranty on the axles.
Step one is to file the flanges on the axles very good every surface the joint will contact. While you need to do a lot of filing you want to be careful not to take the hole in the flange out of round or gouge it in places.
Next step is installing the joint into your axle. Once it's in you'll need to put the clips on.
Now the joint is in one axle: grease the caps, grease the O rings you'll install in the caps, and grease the hole in the axle flange.
Now stick the caps on being careful the O ring stays seated. For this you'll need to make sure the joint is pushed out towards your cap as far as possible.
Keeping the cap level, hit the cap down onto the joint. Be sure you strike flush with the hammer. You don't want to damage the threads for the grease zerk, and clip caps to joint (pic below).
Now repeat the process to combine your inner and outer axles.
Clips
Finish by installing grease zerks and greasing joints.
Now that it is all assembled, work the axle to ensure it moves freely on the joints. If it feels stiff give it a few taps with the hammer on the axle flanges and continue to work.
Step one is to file the flanges on the axles very good every surface the joint will contact. While you need to do a lot of filing you want to be careful not to take the hole in the flange out of round or gouge it in places.
Next step is installing the joint into your axle. Once it's in you'll need to put the clips on.
Now the joint is in one axle: grease the caps, grease the O rings you'll install in the caps, and grease the hole in the axle flange.
Now stick the caps on being careful the O ring stays seated. For this you'll need to make sure the joint is pushed out towards your cap as far as possible.
Keeping the cap level, hit the cap down onto the joint. Be sure you strike flush with the hammer. You don't want to damage the threads for the grease zerk, and clip caps to joint (pic below).
Now repeat the process to combine your inner and outer axles.
Clips
Finish by installing grease zerks and greasing joints.
Now that it is all assembled, work the axle to ensure it moves freely on the joints. If it feels stiff give it a few taps with the hammer on the axle flanges and continue to work.
- Thread starter
- #31
Now that your axles are assembled I will dedicate this post to clearance for the knuckle. Again, you would think with Yukon being such a successful company this would not be an issue, but it is so I will address it here. (i'm not sure this is the case on all makes, and axles but the Chevy 60 will need this).
Slide the assemble axle into the knuckle and you will notice the axles will not fit.
I chose to grind the ear on the axle down to resolve this (I understand some people grind out the knuckle to make it a "one time fix", keep any negative comments to your own DIY). All it takes is some light rounding of the edges on the axles.
The ears of the axles will clear, but you will notice your grease zerk is now holding you up. You could put them in with no grease zerks, and install one at a time turning the axles later but at this point I decided to notch the knuckle.
Done axles will slide in
Now just repeat the steps from the tear down and you're rolling again.
Slide the assemble axle into the knuckle and you will notice the axles will not fit.
I chose to grind the ear on the axle down to resolve this (I understand some people grind out the knuckle to make it a "one time fix", keep any negative comments to your own DIY). All it takes is some light rounding of the edges on the axles.
The ears of the axles will clear, but you will notice your grease zerk is now holding you up. You could put them in with no grease zerks, and install one at a time turning the axles later but at this point I decided to notch the knuckle.
Done axles will slide in
Now just repeat the steps from the tear down and you're rolling again.
- Thread starter
- #32
After I finished the axle instal, I replaced the front and rear brake calipers.
And also took some time and got my tube door open. I rolled it a while back and the door latch broke. I had been dukes of hazarding it. I put the real doors back on until I get a new latch for the this one.
I've got a new problem now though. after I got all the work done, I went to pull it out of the shop and it wouldn't start. Something is messed up with the MSD ignition. I'm not getting spark to the coil. It's always something with these things.......
And also took some time and got my tube door open. I rolled it a while back and the door latch broke. I had been dukes of hazarding it. I put the real doors back on until I get a new latch for the this one.
I've got a new problem now though. after I got all the work done, I went to pull it out of the shop and it wouldn't start. Something is messed up with the MSD ignition. I'm not getting spark to the coil. It's always something with these things.......
See now, maybe I shouldn't get one. Hahahahahaha rig looks great Nick, hopefully you get that issue sorted out quickly.
- Thread starter
- #34
I'm sure I will get it going soon enough, depends a lot on if I can con my dad into helping. He's the one who's the wiring guru. It just has to be fixed by May so I can make the Lonestar Jamboree.
- Thread starter
- #35
Ready for Jambo!!! Also, got a ton of lights Thanks to OKledlightbars.com. If you need anything send Chris an email and tell him Nick sent you. He is by far one of the nicest guys I've dealt with.
4 - HIDs installed in the head lights.
1 - 40" Cree bar
2 - Dually style floods off the sides
2- 6" Cree bars off the back (not on yet, hopefully before I head out to jambo)
4 - Crawler pods: two off the front, two off the rear.
Also redid the Rock lights with some cheap ebay LEDs.
reference pic. My old rock light set up. 4 - 55w fog lights. Made some really bright hot spots and the rest was pretty dark.
new rock Lights
4 - HIDs installed in the head lights.
1 - 40" Cree bar
2 - Dually style floods off the sides
2- 6" Cree bars off the back (not on yet, hopefully before I head out to jambo)
4 - Crawler pods: two off the front, two off the rear.
Also redid the Rock lights with some cheap ebay LEDs.
reference pic. My old rock light set up. 4 - 55w fog lights. Made some really bright hot spots and the rest was pretty dark.
new rock Lights
Too dope! Looking forward to the Jambo flicks.
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks Fragle! You know I'll take a couple.
No Problem, it's a pretty easy process. I looked around before I started and had trouble finding a concise start to finish rebuild, so I thought I'd put one together. Hope it helps.
Hahaha, I wish you were going with use this weekend Chris. It's not too late. Leaving out from OKC at 7:30 Thursday morning. I'll trailer betty, Turtle is going, Steve is hauling his 80 down, and matt is driving his Taco.
- Thread starter
- #40
Couple more pics of all the new lights.
