Dropped screw

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Joined
Apr 20, 2020
Threads
6
Messages
31
Location
Okinawa, Japan
93 LJ78 2lte, was replacing my turbo yesterday and while re installing one of the small bolts I was using to secure the water line slipped from my sausage like fingers and fell into one of the oil return holes on the head. Yes I had the valve cvr off and yes I had the head covered with a rag but as luck would have it there was one small area about the size of a half dollar that wasn’t, the bolt found it as I watched it tumble in slow motion into the &#*/+($& hole and heard that sound of metal on metal clinking down that hole. I tried an extender magnet, no go. Don’t own a scope w/light.
My question is this, don’t those usually go all the way to the sump and shouldn’t I just be able to drain and remove the pan to retrieve it. New to diesels but I am guessing basic block design is same as petrol. TIA
Photo shows approx location of journal

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Sorry to hear. I'm pretty sure those holes drop right into the sump, but don't remember exactly. Only have a few seconds here, but here is a photo album of when I had my 2LTE apart before, you might be able to figure out more looking at the pictures. 2LTE semi-rebuild Here is another link with lots of picture of a 2LTE apart: Rebuilding A 2L-TE Engine - Toyota Surf LN130 - Hilux/4Runner/Surf Topics

I have pulled the oil pan off with the engine in the vehicle before and it was pretty easy. That would probably be your safest bet to make sure the bolt/nut is not in a bad spot. I actually have an extra oil pan sitting downstairs from a 2LTE I could take a closer look at, but I think the bolt/nut would likely just fall into the bottom and not cause any problems at all. Better to check though if you're up for it. Biggest tip is let the oil drip down for at least a couple days before removing the pan. And buy one of those tiny thin pry bars for removing molding in houses, as they work perfect for removing the oil pan without damaging anything.
 
Sorry to hear. I'm pretty sure those holes drop right into the sump, but don't remember exactly. Only have a few seconds here, but here is a photo album of when I had my 2LTE apart before, you might be able to figure out more looking at the pictures. 2LTE semi-rebuild Here is another link with lots of picture of a 2LTE apart: Rebuilding A 2L-TE Engine - Toyota Surf LN130 - Hilux/4Runner/Surf Topics

I have pulled the oil pan off with the engine in the vehicle before and it was pretty easy. That would probably be your safest bet to make sure the bolt/nut is not in a bad spot. I actually have an extra oil pan sitting downstairs from a 2LTE I could take a closer look at, but I think the bolt/nut would likely just fall into the bottom and not cause any problems at all. Better to check though if you're up for it. Biggest tip is let the oil drip down for at least a couple days before removing the pan. And buy one of those tiny thin pry bars for removing molding in houses, as they work perfect for removing the oil pan without damaging
anything.
Sorry to hear. I'm pretty sure those holes drop right into the sump, but don't remember exactly. Only have a few seconds here, but here is a photo album of when I had my 2LTE apart before, you might be able to figure out more looking at the pictures. 2LTE semi-rebuild Here is another link with lots of picture of a 2LTE apart: Rebuilding A 2L-TE Engine - Toyota Surf LN130 - Hilux/4Runner/Surf Topics

I have pulled the oil pan off with the engine in the vehicle before and it was pretty easy. That would probably be your safest bet to make sure the bolt/nut is not in a bad spot. I actually have an extra oil pan sitting downstairs from a 2LTE I could take a closer look at, but I think the bolt/nut would likely just fall into the bottom and not cause any problems at all. Better to check though if you're up for it. Biggest tip is let the oil drip down for at least a couple days before removing the pan. And buy one of those tiny thin pry bars for removing molding in houses, as they work perfect for removing the oil pan without damaging anything.
Thank you for your prompt reply, I read all your posts and I feel more confident now that this is going to be more of nuisance than any thing else. I tried the old drag a magnet across the pan trick to see if I could hear anything but could not, it looks like the pan should be able to be removed without doing anything other than removing the bolts. If so easy day as it will be much easier and quicker to redo pan seal and clean block.

Follow up: discovered by testing the missing bolts twin that they are made of nonferrous materiel and looking at all those fantastic pics you sent and especially several of those from the other link which showed the bottom of the block with crank out that showed there are large openings next to bottom of cylinder next to block wall where the wayward bolt may a passed into the pan. All bolts on pan are removed and after lunch will see about extracting it.

finally: dropping the oil pan of a lj78 2lte is not as difficult as I anticipated. First, axel on jack stands did not give sufficient room to remove it. Used my hi lift to raise the body a few inches but still in order to make it an easy re install which is the most important I needed to drop the sway bar (easy enough) and walla, oil pan out and there was that pesky little bolt (barely a bolt) that has aggregated me for the last time.
All surfaces are now clean and just awaiting a third and fourth hand to arrive so I dont have to try and juggle it all one handed whilst holding the pan so it doesnt mess anything up.
Big thanks to GTSSportcoupe for responding and the excellent photo library, very very nice job btw on that build.

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Good job!
Is the bolt stainless and so barely magnetic?
 
Nice work! I'm glad the pictures etc. helped out and you found the bolt ok!
 
Got it back together and there is a huge reduction in smoke compared to the old turbo and it’s got more gettyup. One little problem popped up upon returning from the test drive. Oil return line from the turbo split in half, fortunately it didn’t happen till I got back in my driveway. Here in Okinawa sourcing a part like that on an older vehicle is not going to happen in a timely manner, especially if it happens right at the beginning of one of the most observed of holidays here, Obon. As luck would have it though my son has a couple of car lots here and one of them is an overflow for cars to be junked. Turns out a heater hose from a Honda Serena Van cut in half makes an adequate replacement for the OEM version. Who new.
This Prado sat for about 4 or 5 years in a garage or covered parking so it has a lot of I need to be used itIs. Lastly, before I popped the grill back on I installed my new headlights with the Toyota truck conversion harness. Easy Day. They are VERY bright in a land where 90% of all vehicles on the road have really yellow looking lights so I hope I don’t “offend” anyone.

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Got it back together and there is a huge reduction in smoke compared to the old turbo and it’s got more gettyup. One little problem popped up upon returning from the test drive. Oil return line from the turbo split in half, fortunately it didn’t happen till I got back in my driveway. Here in Okinawa sourcing a part like that on an older vehicle is not going to happen in a timely manner, especially if it happens right at the beginning of one of the most observed of holidays here, Obon. As luck would have it though my son has a couple of car lots here and one of them is an overflow for cars to be junked. Turns out a heater hose from a Honda Serena Van cut in half makes an adequate replacement for the OEM version. Who new.
This Prado sat for about 4 or 5 years in a garage or covered parking so it has a lot of I need to be used itIs. Lastly, before I popped the grill back on I installed my new headlights with the Toyota truck conversion harness. Easy Day. They are VERY bright in a land where 90% of all vehicles on the road have really yellow looking lights so I hope I don’t “offend” anyone.

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Glad it all worked out ok. You work fast!

Love your truck; I'm jealous of the factory winch. How many kms on it? How does it run?
 
I am very paranoid...will heater hose stand up to hot oil long-term?
Since you have the 1/2 you cut off, maybe go to parts store and get hydraulic hose or whatever of the same diameter.
Umm, they have parts stores?
 
Glad it all worked out ok. You work fast!

Love your truck; I'm jealous of the factory winch. How many kms on it? How does it run?
It has 133K, I’m it’s 3rd owner, the kid who owned it before me bought it from his father in law who was the original owner. Unfortunately for him these type of vehicles are very expensive for locals to JCI, insure and register vehicles that he couldn’t afford it so it sat for years. It has some Oki Rust as we call it so there were a couple of the usual places that needed fixed so had bodywork done and a paint job using original color scheme except for overfenders and they were done to match the upper half.
Overall it’s not bad, the turbo seals were bad so it was making a lot of smoke from that and it needed to be addressed ASAP. I had already removed the butterfliesin the throttle body an as soon as I get my EGR plates made that mod will be done. I did a catch can butthe hoses that came with it were crap so I need to address that. I tapped my exhaust downpipe while the turbo was out for the EGTprobe and installed that portion.
This morning I discovered my floor board was wet with coolant,it’s coming from the heater return line so I will be bypassing the heater for the time being, Heaters in Okinawa are not necessary for the most part. The upgraded headlights were great improvement. Just trying to get it so that I feel comfortable making it a daily driver. It’s going to be a process. More posts to follow to be sure.

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I am very paranoid...will heater hose stand up to hot oil long-term?
Since you have the 1/2 you cut off, maybe go to parts store and get hydraulic hose or whatever of the same diameter.
Umm, they have parts stores?
Yes, but certainly not like any most are used to. It’s an Island and no competition for that service so they don’t stock stuff for most DIYers and most here do not work on them, not even fluids or air. It’s a temp fix till I get one in from MegaZip. Adapt and Overcome. Get it working then do it right when you can.
 

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