Drive shaft retube...wall thickness??

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$230 later its done with two new joints. A little more than I planned for because of the U-joints but no biggie. we'll see how it fares at the Black Hills.

Thanks for the input.



Should have had a spare made while you were at it....
 
...or buy a spare off the net from someone....I carry a spare stock rear for my 80 and have a .120 wall installed....

had a .250 wall in the rear of my 40 for a while...woah....that was one HEAVY shaft, but never dented...

course, top speed of 30ish....downhill....on 4psi bias tires....so who cares.... ;)
 
Will the heavier driveshaft cause a powerloss? How will it affect a DD?
 
I've had a bunch of shafts re-tubed at the local driveline place. They have always recommended 0.120 tube and that's what I've used. No problems with balance or vibration. Visually, even the 0.120 is much heavier than stock Toyota tubing. The 0.25 tube would make for a very heavy shaft.

It does seem like the stock stuff dents easily, where the heavier stuff can survive a nasty barber pole and still run true.

I agree with the always carry a spare rear drive shaft advice! It's saved me a long walk twice.
 
not sure the heavier wall will cause power loss, but it IS pretty far down the drivetrain....IMO, you can increase the loads on pinions and other shafts with it's rotating mass...

something always gives....shafts ain't cheap, but t-case outputs aren't either...

minitrucks have a heavier flywheel avail...but that's pretty early in the powertrain, and is supposed to help with torque...

IMO, a .250 wall shaft is overkill when your rig is daily driven....if it DOES go bad, that's a lotta rotating mass to cause damage under there should it let go....
 
So .120 shaft is the way to go?
 
It does seem like the stock stuff dents easily...



Oh it does, and compared to .120, it will...Pretty sure it is < .080" wall...pretty close to the junk tube used on the stock roll bar...

:rolleyes:

Jeeps have/had drive shafts with thicker tubing...


:rolleyes:
 
In spite of the fact that I have built a couple sets of extremely heavy duty and extremely heavy driveshafts, I am not a big fan of them. .120 os a good tube thickness. Enlarging the diameter of the tube helps too.

A very heavy shaft puts stress on the beqrings at each end and on the ujoints. We had one that was about .020 out of true. Vibration wasn't too bad, but due to the weight it hammered the ujoints in under 150 miles. The needle bearings were still good, but the caps were loose and sloppy (end thrust).

If you come down hard on a rock with a stock shaft it dents or bends. If you come down hard on an extreme heavy duty one it passes all of the impact on to the output shaft of the T/C and to the pinion of the diff. They may take it. They'll take more than the stock shaft would anyway. But will they take anything that a heavy shaft could pass on to them? doubtful. :(

A bit heavier than stock is a good thing. Getting carried away may not be.


Mark...
 
Should have had a spare made while you were at it....

The plan is to find a spare online like Woody mentioned and have it re-tubed over the off season. Not going to have it for BHCC but the .137 should help. I've been talking with Oleg but he currently doesn't have any and other folks treat them like gold.

...or buy a spare off the net from someone....I carry a spare stock rear for my 80 and have a .120 wall installed...

That's the plan. There are other spares I want to carry as well but that's another thread.
 

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