Drive line hum, diff flange angle and caster LC 76 2007 Hz (1 Viewer)

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I have been struggling with a mild hum /vibration “somewhere near the back” since buying the bus a few years back. I have checked everything, and I mean everything including the front end, except for the diff and transfer case flange angles.

Now, I came from a Land Rover series 2, so the ride and comfort (and noises) were
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perfectly acceptable, bordering on luxury.

Let’s rewind a bit shall we. She came with a modified suspension, which looks like OME, but I am not sure of the amount of lift. The vehicle does not look madly lifted, but yes I think a bit more than standard.

The rear leaves carry the number LCR 76.50.350 along with the pics, could someone identify these for me please.

Looking at the flange angles, the TX case is almost flat, possible a degree or two down (pointing towards the diff). The diff is at about 8 or more degrees, (Pointing towards the TX case.). Google tells me that this is too much and that the flange angles should be as close to vertical as possible, and at least the flanges should be parallel to each other (same angle). This for a single prop with UJ either ends.

So, at the very least I need a wedge to bring the diff flange angle to more or less the same as the TX case flange angle??? Right??.

Now, if the back was not done properly, what about the front end regarding caster angle? The front flange angle is about the same as the back. Surprise surprise, So again it will mismatch to the TX case. Probably less noticeable because it is only engaged on rough surfaces.

The ride has seemed OK, but then remember my LR background, no unsolicited lane changes or tram lineing, but, thinking about it, she does not self -correct very well, but still safely. She did, however, get a little loose on a steepish downhill corner on tar at about 110km with a roof top tent fitted. So, all may not be well.

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Questions:

Is the wedgie the way to go on the rear springs?


What leaves are these and where can a get a data sheet.

If the rear needs correction, then the front should as well???? Ja

Are offset bushes the way to go on the front end?

What make of offset bushes have fared best??

The vehicle is not “wheeled or pulled through my naught” and spends a lot of time on tar and long heavy holidays are done in far off Safari Parks which have soft sand and rough rocky roads but in the right conditions, a diff locked 2x4 could do them.




Regards

George.
 
Wedge goes between U bolts at springs and diff. Fatter part towards driveshaft. IIRC The thing to watch for is you're going to lose the alignment bolt head protrudment. Hope this helps.
 
Cheers Ivanhoe
Turns out that the PO had fitted aftermarket springs and polypushes, but used the standard toyota front bolt which is way to thin for polybushes, and poly bush do not have an internal metal tube, it allowed him to overtighten the bolts causeing the shackel plates on the chassis to bend in and touch the springs. Also my bad for not picking this up sooner and blaming the poor old diff. All sorted now. The actual supplier of the springs was horrified to see the workmanship ( or lack thereof) and repaired the whole thing at cost price.
 

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