Door Lock Motors, additional info (2 Viewers)

[Rusty Marlin]

I'm changing my door lock motors and want to expand upon this thread.

RTH... Door lock actuator motor

I'm using the same motors, bought them as a 4 pack off amazon.
They do not have solderable connectors they are friction fit connectors.
When you unsolder the wires off the old motors you are are left with this:

Its a "snap" fit to hold the connector to the original motor while it was soldered on.

They wont fit into the new motor wire mounts and need to be altered.
New motor wire mounts. Wire goes in top slit and the spring (connector) holds it in place:

 

[Rusty Marlin]

The prongs are snipped off the original wire parallel to the crimp, keeping the rounded portion of the crimp. Then flatten slightly, with pliers, to form a blade.

Motor from end with out wire inserted:

Motor from end with wire inserted:

Should you get the polarity backward, you can simply tug the wires out and swap locations.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Switching gears slightly, Adventures in Pulling Out Door Locks.

Notes on front doors:
1) Take out the bolt holding the latch side window runner, the lock mech will slip right passed it when its loosened. The bolt on the edge of the door down near your hips, 10mm hex.
2) The Mechanism is much different than the rear, requiring significant disassembly of the entire mech to get the motor out. You've been warned.

Rear Doors:
On the LX the lift rod that goes from the handle to the opening mech is trapped by a snap collet, disconnecting the poly latch will not allow the rod to be pulled from it's keeper. You have to remove the outside door handle too. It all comes out as a package through the top hole in the inner door skin.

If you can flex the poly washer though the slot, the door latch can stay behind while you take the door lock apart, it was cool here today and the washer didn't want to cooperate.

The outer 10mm hex for the door handle is accessed via the latch opening, you have to let the lock mech hang so it will get clear of the extension.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

BE CAREFUL putting the door handle back though the outer hole and do not torque the door latch lift rod in its mount. Or you may be teaching the neighbor kids new phrases and ways to string words together better taught by their parents. luckily it was pouring rain while I executed this maneuver so no kiddies were running about the hood. HO LI F&*K I was pissed.
Here's the fix if you are channeling a ham fisted clout like I was this afternoon. Still pissed, but its a good fix so I'll get over it.

I should have taken more pics, it really was a clever bit of repair, but I was moving fast and angry and forgot to document this.

The new pivot is fabbed from a piece of .120 Al flat stock. I popped a hole the correct diameter for the pin in the end, then clamped it to the outside of the lift arm leg on the door handle using a drill shank to align the hole in the plate with the remnant of hole in the door handle. I then drilled two .087" diameter holes through the aluminum plate and the door handle so when I created the slot and wiped out the remnant of the original hole, I knew the new pivot point would be in the right place.
The .087 is meaningless, its just that I have a bunch of that size drills in a tube, I sacrificed one of the drills to make the two alignment pins. The alignment pins are only holding the assembly in place till the JB weld cures.

I cut a slot down through the center of the lift arm using a hacksaw, then a wide bladed power hack saw blade, then wrapped the blade in 80 grit to widen the slot some more, then finally a file to create a slot with a little play in the joint. Mixed up some JB Weld, buttered all the surfaces and cross pinned the new pivot hole plate into the door handle.

Everything went back together slick as can be and it works great!

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Completed the other two doors today. Yeah, new door locks. They work fantastic.
THANK YOU to everyone that got me started on this job. Probably could have done it without the forum, but not sure I would have. That little extra nugget of information is all that's needed to create the confidence to tackle a job.

Thank you IH8MUD!

 

[94txcruiser]

I'm changing my door lock motors and want to expand upon this thread.

RTH... Door lock actuator motor

I'm using the same motors, bought them as a 4 pack off amazon.
They do not have solderable connectors they are friction fit connectors.
When you unsolder the wires off the old motors you are are left with this:

Its a "snap" fit to hold the connector to the original motor while it was soldered on.

They wont fit into the new motor wire mounts and need to be altered.
New motor wire mounts. Wire goes in top slit and the spring (connector) holds it in place:

Do you have the part number / where you ordered it from?

I need new motors for my rear doors 80 series

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Amazon product ASIN B01LXS38R9

 

[94txcruiser]

Amazon product ASIN B01LXS38R9

Awesome!

No seemingly dumb question...how do I know if its my motor that is bad, or, if its the regulator in the door?

 

[94txcruiser]

Awesome!

No seemingly dumb question...how do I know if its my motor that is bad, or, if its the regulator in the door?

Ignore - i realized this was for door locks only - I apologize...i also need to swap my window motor / regulator and got confused on thread