Door Control Receiver - Do I need to reprogram? (1 Viewer)

[hysteria357]

Hello, 2001 LC here. Hunting down some more electrical gremlins related to the locking. My lock works with the remote but unlocking doesn't. I had a local independent Toyota shop diagnose and they suggested replacing the door controller module (89741-60061). I was able to source one to test out. When I plug the new one in I get zero response from the key. Does the remote need to be reprogrammed?

Edit: potential solution in thread

 

[kevgentile]

Yes, it does programming. I fit worked by just connecting then any remote key would have access.

There are a few methods of the song and dance to program, you'll have to look into it and try.

 

[hysteria357]

Yes, it does programming. I fit worked by just connecting then any remote key would have access.

There are a few methods of the song and dance to program, you'll have to look into it and try.

Thanks. Just tried reprogramming it and no luck. Same behavior as before. Back to the drawing board.

 

[kevgentile]

Assuming multiple remote keys have the same error and you're certain and have verified that the replacement module is good then the next step is to pin the instrument ecu for the proper voltages. There is a cheat sheet in one of the manuals to assist. I'll locate and post.
It's advisable to download the free workshop manuals and use them to help properly diagnose.

Early 100's (98-020 have the instrument ecu located in the center of the dash up behind the head unit. All the wires leading into the connector are of the same light blue color so you'll need the electrical wiring diagram to know the pinouts.

 

[kevgentile]

SERVICE HINTS

W3 WIRELESS DOOR LOCK ECU:

1−GROUND : Always continuity

8−GROUND : Always approx. 12 volts

13−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with ignition SW at ON or ST position

D21, D22, D23, D24 DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW FRONT LH, RH, REAR LH, RH 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at lock operation

3−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at unlock operation

B4 BACK DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND BACK DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at lock operation 3−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at unlock operation

I19 (A), I20 (B), I21 (C) INSTRUMENT ECU

(A) 3−GROUND : Continuity with front passenger door open (A)14−GROUND : Continuity with driver door open

(B) 1−GROUND : Continuity with rear RH door open

(C) 7−GROUND : Continuity with rear LH door or back door open (C) 1−GROUND : Always approx. 12 volts

(C) 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with ignition SW at ON or ST position (C) 4−GROUND : Always continuity

D14, D15, D16, D17 DOOR COURTESY SW FRONT LH, RH, REAR LH, RH

1−GROUND : Closed with door open

B2 BACK DOOR COURTESY SW

1−2 : Closed with back door open

 

[hysteria357]

Assuming multiple remote keys have the same error and you're certain and have verified that the replacement module is good then the next step is to pin the instrument ecu for the proper voltages. There is a cheat sheet in one of the manuals to assist. I'll locate and post.
It's advisable to download the free workshop manuals and use them to help properly diagnose.

Early 100's (98-020 have the instrument ecu located in the center of the dash up behind the head unit. All the wires leading into the connector are of the same light blue color so you'll need the electrical wiring diagram to know the pinouts.

If you could that would be fantastic. I have another instrument ECU to test with

 

[kevgentile]

MY2000 should be nearly identical. I didn't see '01 listed but I may have missed it, MY02 is also available if needed.
Everything is listed up to in "resources". Have fun!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2000-land-cruiser-ewd-ewd381u.200/

FSM - 2000 Land Cruiser Repair Manual (RM722U)

2000 Land Cruiser Repair Manual (RM722U), 2157 pages, 21.8MB contents: Introduction Maintenance General Maintenance (MA-1 to MA-11) Equipment (PP-1 to PP-82) Service Specifications (SS-1 to SS-53) Diagnostics DI-1 to DI-684 )...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[hysteria357]

SERVICE HINTS

W3 WIRELESS DOOR LOCK ECU:

1−GROUND : Always continuity

8−GROUND : Always approx. 12 volts

13−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with ignition SW at ON or ST position

D21, D22, D23, D24 DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW FRONT LH, RH, REAR LH, RH 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at lock operation

3−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at unlock operation

B4 BACK DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND BACK DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at lock operation 3−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at unlock operation

I19 (A), I20 (B), I21 (C) INSTRUMENT ECU

(A) 3−GROUND : Continuity with front passenger door open (A)14−GROUND : Continuity with driver door open

(B) 1−GROUND : Continuity with rear RH door open

(C) 7−GROUND : Continuity with rear LH door or back door open (C) 1−GROUND : Always approx. 12 volts

(C) 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with ignition SW at ON or ST position (C) 4−GROUND : Always continuity

D14, D15, D16, D17 DOOR COURTESY SW FRONT LH, RH, REAR LH, RH

1−GROUND : Closed with door open

B2 BACK DOOR COURTESY SW

1−2 : Closed with back door open

Silly question but in this case is "ground" any grounding surface or are we talking the ground pin

 

[kevgentile]

Silly question but in this case is "ground" any grounding surface or are we talking the ground pin

It can be both but in some cases Toyota will request to ground at a specific ground/pin at the ecu/ecm.
I'd go through the wsm to be certain, or just check both situations and see if there are any discrepancies.

 

[hysteria357]

SERVICE HINTS

W3 WIRELESS DOOR LOCK ECU:

1−GROUND : Always continuity

8−GROUND : Always approx. 12 volts

13−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with ignition SW at ON or ST position

D21, D22, D23, D24 DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW FRONT LH, RH, REAR LH, RH 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at lock operation

3−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at unlock operation

B4 BACK DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND BACK DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at lock operation 3−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with door lock motor at unlock operation

I19 (A), I20 (B), I21 (C) INSTRUMENT ECU

(A) 3−GROUND : Continuity with front passenger door open (A)14−GROUND : Continuity with driver door open

(B) 1−GROUND : Continuity with rear RH door open

(C) 7−GROUND : Continuity with rear LH door or back door open (C) 1−GROUND : Always approx. 12 volts

(C) 2−GROUND : Approx. 12 volts with ignition SW at ON or ST position (C) 4−GROUND : Always continuity

D14, D15, D16, D17 DOOR COURTESY SW FRONT LH, RH, REAR LH, RH

1−GROUND : Closed with door open

B2 BACK DOOR COURTESY SW

1−2 : Closed with back door open

Looks like I'm getting no voltage on 13. Gonna work on the rest

 

[hysteria357]

Now another weird question. When I was probing the door locks, I checked the door pocket light since it was out. I was getting 24v to that one where on the assembly it says 12v. Could that be indicative of something else?

Disregard I had the multimeter set wrong

 

[hysteria357]

Just for fun when I had the body ecu out I threw in a new one just to rule out that part and still no luck. I can't even get it back into key programming mode

 

[hysteria357]

Update: still hunting this all down. I'm trying to follow the wire that leads to the wireless door lock ECU thats not sending it voltage. I'm thinking I might need to just pull the junction box. I also still need to find the incoming leak. I thought I already cleared the sunroof drains but ill double check those. it seems to be coming in behind the firewall so maybe its the gromet? Perhaps I should remove that black vented plastic thing at the bottom of the windshield

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Little off topic, but what were your symptoms?

 

[hysteria357]

Little off topic, but what were your symptoms?

Remote locks but does not unlock. When doing the remote programming it's supposed to do a final lock/unlock sequence. It only does the lock. Pressing unlock with the doors closed does nothing. With the doors open pressing unlock flashes the lights. In both scenarios I hear a relay trying to activate. There is a yet to be found leak on the driver's side.

Might be related but my alarm will go off when trying to unlock the drivers door after it rains

 

[hysteria357]

All my electrical issues seem to lead back to the junction box. I want to pull it and test the relays. I removed all the t taps from the previous owner and soldered the wires back together to rule out a short from their custom wiring. Looks like they had a brake controller and some other unknown accessories at one point. There was also an unknown t tap on the way to the ECU.

Is there a guide on how to remove the junction box behind the driver's side kick plate?

 

[hysteria357]

UPDATE: it works now. Only thing that changed was I replaced the damaged wheel speed sensors. No clue if this was related. I will update accordingly