I just bought a '99 4Runner on Monday and I'm trying to work out all of the little kinks. The front passenger door's door ajar switch seems to be wired in reverse. When the door is open, the "Door Ajar" light goes off. When the door is closed, the light comes on. It's not a huge deal, but it affects the lights inside from being able to turn on/off automatically. It also prevents me from using the keyfob (which I programmed today!...the Konami Code of Toyota) from locking the doors. So it's just a little annoying, but it seems easy to fix. I just wanted to get some insight on where the problem might be exactly. I'm thinking it's either in the passenger door/frame or under the steering wheel somewhere where those switches connect (I think). Seems like I just need to twist some connection 180 degrees and then it will be fixed, but I'm not sure if there might be something else involved. I don't want to start tearing apart the door when it's just a connection that's easily accessible. TIA
Door Ajar Switch Backward (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter vmboy84
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #2
I found this forum. It's about Ford trucks, so I'm not sure if it would still be similar to the 4Runner. It sounds like the Fords have a Vehicle Security Module (VSM) that can be reset. I guess you close all of the doors and that tells the computer that that state is "closed" for each door. Is there something like that on these 4Runners?
- Thread starter
- #3
Well. I figured out the problem was the door ajar switch in the front passenger door. It was completely busted to pieces inside and just happened to be twisted so that it made the connection when it wasn't being pressed. I used this thread to figure out how to replace it. Neither Autozone nor O'Reilly's had it in stock so I'll have to order it. They charge about $30 after tax, etc. Toyota had it in stock but were going to charge ~$70 for it 
On Monday I should be able to get it installed and hopefully all will work. I ended up pulling off the metal connector from the wire. I squeezed it back on and taped it back on. I hope that's enough to do the trick.
On Monday I should be able to get it installed and hopefully all will work. I ended up pulling off the metal connector from the wire. I squeezed it back on and taped it back on. I hope that's enough to do the trick.
Glad you got it sorted out. I wish I could get mine figured out. I have about decided that mine is the Body ECU. I have tested all the door switches and have pulled my dome light, checked the rear hatch connection and what grounds I can get to and I still got nothing.
I priced a new ECU and even the MUD price was nearly $400, so I can live with the light for now. I hope I can eventually replace the ECU and get this issue sorted out.
And Welcome to MUD.
I priced a new ECU and even the MUD price was nearly $400, so I can live with the light for now. I hope I can eventually replace the ECU and get this issue sorted out.
And Welcome to MUD.
- Thread starter
- #5
Well, I'm ALMOST done with this problem. My door jamb switch came in at Autozone. So I go to pick it up, but it has a completely different connection and it doesn't have the additional wire. So I go pull the wire out of the car and find that the connector that connects to the wiring in the car is the same type of connector that fits in this new door jamb switch. I had noticed as they were finding the part on the computer that there was a "Door Jamb Switch Connector". So we pull that up on the screen and it has some odd code. He then pulls out a book looking for this connector. He doesn't find it and tells me I should look elsewhere.
So now I need some more advice. If this additional wire is cheap enough, I'll just do that and be done with it. Does anyone know how I would identify the type of connection: name, type, part number? I also looked at O'Reilly's and the images for their switches show the wire, so I might just do that. The only issue is they don't carry them in the stores so I could end up being in the same boat. Also, it would have to be a special order and it could end up being slightly more expensive. O'Reilly's website also had an error when I looked up the "door jamb switch connector"
Any suggestions?
So now I need some more advice. If this additional wire is cheap enough, I'll just do that and be done with it. Does anyone know how I would identify the type of connection: name, type, part number? I also looked at O'Reilly's and the images for their switches show the wire, so I might just do that. The only issue is they don't carry them in the stores so I could end up being in the same boat. Also, it would have to be a special order and it could end up being slightly more expensive. O'Reilly's website also had an error when I looked up the "door jamb switch connector"
Any suggestions?
If you can return the switch, then do so and get your $30 d@m dollars back. Then call Sam at Toyota South.
Sam Stewart
678-783-2654
sstewart@toyotasouthatlanta.com
Tell him that you are on MUD and then tell him what you need and he will get you a price for a new OEM switch that should bolt right in. I asked him once and they aren't that expensive, maybe $10 -$15 or so. It is just a plunger with a dust cover.
Edit: P/N 84231-12080, shouldn't be more than $15 +/- from one of the MUD vendors like Sam or Onur. I am not sure who wanted 70 freaking dollars for one, but they have lost their ever-lovin minds!!
I don't remember much about exactly how the switch came apart, but I was thinking that it was one bolt and then just un-hooking one wire. Toyota wires things backwards of the domestic guys in that they switch the ground instead of the power, so a generic switch may have to have some kind of crazy wiring to make it work correctly.
If you can't get a hold of Sam I have another option, but I will have to find Beno's (Onur) contact info.
Also, see here as to how to change it out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyota-trucks/448340-96-4runner-door-switch-replacement.html
Sam Stewart
678-783-2654
sstewart@toyotasouthatlanta.com
Tell him that you are on MUD and then tell him what you need and he will get you a price for a new OEM switch that should bolt right in. I asked him once and they aren't that expensive, maybe $10 -$15 or so. It is just a plunger with a dust cover.
Edit: P/N 84231-12080, shouldn't be more than $15 +/- from one of the MUD vendors like Sam or Onur. I am not sure who wanted 70 freaking dollars for one, but they have lost their ever-lovin minds!!
I don't remember much about exactly how the switch came apart, but I was thinking that it was one bolt and then just un-hooking one wire. Toyota wires things backwards of the domestic guys in that they switch the ground instead of the power, so a generic switch may have to have some kind of crazy wiring to make it work correctly.
If you can't get a hold of Sam I have another option, but I will have to find Beno's (Onur) contact info.
Also, see here as to how to change it out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyota-trucks/448340-96-4runner-door-switch-replacement.html
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #7
Yeah, that's the thread I used. I ended up ordering the part from rockauto.com for about $15 shipped. It should come in on Saturday. Assuming it works, I'll take the other one back to Autozone. If I'm still having issues, I'll contact Sam.
I think the problem is that there is some sort of overlap for '99 models in the parts databases. So, depending on which database you use, it pulls up different part numbers.
This is what I ended up getting from Autozone. I think it would work if I just had the right connecting wire...which actually looks like a better connection than the other "metal prong" method.
I think the problem is that there is some sort of overlap for '99 models in the parts databases. So, depending on which database you use, it pulls up different part numbers.
This is what I ended up getting from Autozone. I think it would work if I just had the right connecting wire...which actually looks like a better connection than the other "metal prong" method.