does a 3l non turbo need a pyro?

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jmika

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Hi just bought a hilux, and picking it up on wed from the port in new westminister and driving back to ontario. Since I am driving through the largest population of jdm's in canada, I thought I would ask to see if a pyro is suggested in a non turbo diesel? if so is there anyone who instals them? and cost? thanks
mika
 
Not a bad idea. Naturally aspirated diesel can have quite high EGT's actually. Under load, i.e., foot to the floor situation, the N/A diesel cannot get enough air to properly burn the fuel it's being fed and this can result in very high combustion temps.
 
I've toasted a natuarally aspirated 3B due to a dropped pre-cup (I presume due to overheating as it was shortly after some mountain passes). I've also seen the temps on my truck rise instantly by 300 - 400 F when the crossover pipe from the turbo popped off (making a turbo engine instantly non-turbo, and the fuel was NOT turned up when the turbo was installed). From now on ALL my diesels will have pyro's. I've already got the one for the FJ45LV 3B and that truck is still at least a year from completion!!
 
i there anyone who can instal one next wed evening in bc will be heading east towards ontario from abbotford wed eveningish.
What tools are needed?
I don't want to cook this engine.
 
If your going to do it yourself, you need a drill and drill bits, like 1/4 inch. The probe just clamps on to the side of the exhaust down pipe. For NA guys.

It takes power and ground for the probe, and the same for the lights.Except for the lights it gets instrument power so you can dim it. But that can be done later.

For probe power just go of a source that is only live with ignition. Maybe off the cig lighter wire.

Bring basic tools and a small cordless drill. Or buy a cordless drill at crappy tire when you get there.

Also you could post in the Coastal cruiser section on here for help if needed.

I bet you could loosely install in about 30mins or max an hour in a parking lot.

Later you can deal with pods or dash mounting. Just duct tape it on somewhere to get home.

I would also bring some supplies before you hit the highway. OIl, Coolant etc... If you overheat, pull off and idle till cool. Fill up coolant etc. If there is problem with the coolant system, its better to find out and have some supplies so you don't have to drive till damaged.

G-luck
 
I know this is basic but I think it should be mentioned, when you are going over large mountains (or anything that is uphill) and notice your temp guage go up, turn the heater to Hot and turn the heater blower to full. This will help with the temps and because you are using the Heater core you manage to get more circulation throught the cooling system and helping the engine to cool down. Have a safe trip.
 
Fantom said:
I know this is basic but I think it should be mentioned, when you are going over large mountains (or anything that is uphill) and notice your temp guage go up, turn the heater to Hot and turn the heater blower to full. This will help with the temps and because you are using the Heater core you manage to get more circulation throught the cooling system and helping the engine to cool down. Have a safe trip.
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That doesn't help with combustion temperatures though and THAT'S what kills the engine (at least it killed mine)! You need to take your foot off the skinny pedal to drop combustion temperatures. There is NO other way.
 
Fantom said:
I know this is basic but I think it should be mentioned, when you are going over large mountains (or anything that is uphill) and notice your temp guage go up, turn the heater to Hot and turn the heater blower to full. This will help with the temps and because you are using the Heater core you manage to get more circulation throught the cooling system and helping the engine to cool down. Have a safe trip.
Click to expand...

I agree with cruiser_guy. Coolant temp takes awhile to show high EGT's if at all.

Don't go by coolant temp or you will fawk your engine.

If you don't have a pyro keep the rev's high going over the hill and do not mat the gas pedal. Always down shift on slopes. Try to keep at or above 3000 rpms or more.

If you lug the engine and floor the pedal you will create super high egt's and could screw the head. Higher rpm gets more air in to keep it cooler.

That doesn't mean redlining the engine either. You will not be able to keep 100 on the hills. My BJ60 would easily drop to 60 climbing most hill. Sometime I had to go to 2nd and 40 or so.
 
just a suggestion.. get some new washer fluid in there immediatly....a friend was driving his back through the mountains and the water in the washer fluid container froze on him.. also when I got mine it only had water in it too.. all the best..
 
Well there is one other way (sort of). A larger diameter exhaust, which is probably my next big change, once mine dies. Perhaps another possibility also is to slightly turn the fuel down. Made a HUGE diff in my 1HDT - about 200F across the board. Factor in about that much again for exhaust and I should have a very happy 1HDT. But on the pyro, it was one of the best things I've done for my truck, because as I was told, pyros tell you a great deal about how your engine is running.
 
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