DIY front end alignment

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Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Threads
45
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2,099
Location
Texas
I bought a new tie rod assembly from JT outfitters that I found on ebay. They claimed it to be OEM quality or better and upon receipt I would concur with there claim, at least from an appearance standpoint. The parts were made in Japan which I find encouraging.

Old tie rod end.
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Old assembly.
Tierod002.jpg



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This is my alignment tool.
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I took off the old assembly (I knew that toe was too far out) and then lined up the new assembly so it matched length. I then applied anti-seize to the threads. I did this in order to avoid the problem that was the watershed cause for necessitating this repair in the first place (the tie rod was frozen, limiting adjustment. Then trying to force and heating caused play in one of the tired tie rod ends).

Next, I put the new assembly on the cleaned steering arms.

The alignment tool was a piece of quarter round I had sitting in the garage. I measured the distance from the inside of fronts of both wheels and then cut the quarter round to be a slightly longer. I used a wood rasp to fine tune the length so it sat perfectly between the fronts of the two rims.

Now I moved the tool to the rear of the front wheels. It was more difficult to get it into position here because the tie rod and panhard rod were in the way. But the quarter round is flexible which made it easy to squeeze it into where it needed to be.

Once the piece of wood was between the inside rear of both rims I could see that it was about the same distance. I adjusted the tie rod so that I had about 1/8" toe in measured at the rim and went for a cruise. Better, but I knew it has felt much better so I gave it another 1/8". Excellent with 1/4" total.

I never had a good alignment after I started running 35's (my tie rod was frozen). It makes a big difference when you don't have enough toe. I also adjusted the drag link so that my wheel is straight and adjusted the LSPV. The truck feels better then when I was on 33's. :clap:

I learned during the process that larger tires require more toe. If it seems like you lost straight line stability when you put on bigger tires you may want to give more toe a try.
 
Good job my friend. I need to check my tie rod ends. Were yours totally shot?
No sir. One seemed ok and the other seemed to have about 1/16" of play. Though the one wasn't too bad I am sure it was enough play to contribute to squirmy behavior.

The biggest issue for me was the inability to turn the tie rod (and hence the tie rod ends) to push the rear of the wheels out far enough to give a needed amount of toe in. Heating the rod in my previous attempts to unfreeze the tie rod ends damaged the seals and grease was leaking out of both. I am not totally sure that I caused the play, but the morals of the story are:

Use anti-seize on your new tie rod and tie rod ends.

If your front end is squirmy when driving straight you likely need more toe in.

If your front end is squirmy when braking you also may need to adjust your LSPV.

Bigger tires need more toe in than stock sized tires and what factory specs call for.

Don't trust the mechanics who want you to spend money on their "services" (They tried to tell me my bearings were shot when they are in fact fine).
 
Was it a fairly easy job to replace the TRE's?
Not bad at all. If you use your existing tie rod you should make sure that the new ends will turn on their threads easily inside of the old rod. I am able to turn my new rod with my hands, but before... well you know.

You will need a tie rod press tool if you don't have one. I happen to have one available. If you are able to wait until after the holidays I will be able to help out. I don't think I will be available unitl then, but there is a remote possiblity.

Check out prices. You may want to go ahead and spring for a new tie rod since they are relatively cheap. After shipping I spent $140 on the entire assembly. I didn't want crap. The seller on Ebay (JT Outfitters) convinced me that I was buying quality and it turned out to be. I entertained the idea of buying a Slee or MAF HD tie rod, but decided that stock has been stout enough and it is quite a bit less expensive.

I held off on the drag link. It is a little bent, but it still adjusts and the drag link ends are fine.
 
Looks like Kelly wants to play. Lemme know when you do your TRE's so I can watch....
I might learn a new trick or two. especially on the alignment......
 
Speaking of trail bikes, Brett, do you know how to adjust the carbs on Honda 3 wheelers?
 
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