Ive got a 75 fj55. I am looking into getting into the disc brake conversion. SOR is near 20 mins. away. Anybody used their conversion? I have taken the front apart and put back together to the burfield, but I am no mechanic. My last project I bled only a little. Amongst the million questions, I get a little intimidate when people talk about porportioning valves. Do I need to get a different master cylinder? I have heard something about simply shortening the plunger and using the one I have.
disc conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter xtiaan2000
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I also have a 75 FJ55. I also am by no means a mechanic, but I was able to do the disc brake conversion all by myself. Hardest part for me was separating one of the axles from a birfield. It did take me a lot longer to complete the whole job than I heard it would. I guess I'm a lot slower than most. I used the kit and prop valve from CC in Colorado and didn't have any problems with their stuff. Probably similar to SOR's kit, but I don't know. There are lots of other people on here that have done the conversion that will probably be happy to help you out. Good luck.
I did it myself too with limited knowledge. There's always a first time for everything. I have no prop valve and never did anything to the master cylinder. Course I've only taken it on short trips around my house since then. BUT, doing the conversion was easy.
Its not to bad really. I agree with John. if I were you I would find toyota parts. FJ60 or Minitruck parts. The reason to use toyota parts is it is fairly simple and upgrades your birfields to a 30 spline, someone back me up on that... Anyway I used the master from a minitruck and all the parts from knuckle out so I got the aisin hubs as well. Best upgrade I have done so far. It will lock up all four if I really want it to. Good luck.
Check out guppies thread, it was really helpful to me.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...t-axle-disc-brake-conversion-dummies-faq.html
Check out guppies thread, it was really helpful to me.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...t-axle-disc-brake-conversion-dummies-faq.html
i'll also say go with used toyota parts from a 60 or mini. first off, you get a stronger belled birf than yours, a wide pattern knuckle (also stronger), easy to source parts later on, quality asian hubs, and nothing is better than oem.
three hints...first, you'll have to grind a little top and bottom on the flat portions of the knuckle ball of your axle housing to get the birf to fit. don't feel intimidated. just do a little bit at a time on both top and bottom, see if the birf will fit, if not, go again.
also, you'll have to look at the taper of your tie rod end at the steering arms (on the knuckles). those will need to match on the new setup so you can bolt up your tie rod.
last, get the proportioning valve off whatever rig you're getting the front end parts from...it's a funky looking assy bolted usually on the bottom stud holding the master cylinder. if you use the master off whatever vehicle you're robbing, then no more needed...if you're using your stock master, find the front brake line at the master. where the brake line screws into the master, is a giant "nut" shaped piece. unscrew that and you'll see the residual valve inside. that valve is there to keep fluid from flowing all the way back to the master...drums need to have a little bit of fluid holding the cylinders, discs do not. remove it and screw the big "nut" looking piece back on. reassemble the brake line.
three hints...first, you'll have to grind a little top and bottom on the flat portions of the knuckle ball of your axle housing to get the birf to fit. don't feel intimidated. just do a little bit at a time on both top and bottom, see if the birf will fit, if not, go again.
also, you'll have to look at the taper of your tie rod end at the steering arms (on the knuckles). those will need to match on the new setup so you can bolt up your tie rod.
last, get the proportioning valve off whatever rig you're getting the front end parts from...it's a funky looking assy bolted usually on the bottom stud holding the master cylinder. if you use the master off whatever vehicle you're robbing, then no more needed...if you're using your stock master, find the front brake line at the master. where the brake line screws into the master, is a giant "nut" shaped piece. unscrew that and you'll see the residual valve inside. that valve is there to keep fluid from flowing all the way back to the master...drums need to have a little bit of fluid holding the cylinders, discs do not. remove it and screw the big "nut" looking piece back on. reassemble the brake line.
if you look, you'll see i said to get fj60 or mini truck. 4wd minis didn't happen until 79 and 60 series was 81 and up
