Diff-drop compatible skid plates (1 Viewer)

[linuxgod]

After beating on my factory front skid on red cone last year, I’ve decided it’s time to get something stronger. (Actually the front held up ok from that big @ss rock, but I’m leaning towards doing a Moab trip in June and given how weak the other skids are I fell like it’s time to bite the bullet).

Here’s the rub though, unlike the majority of 200 owners, I have a 1” diff drop installed.

Who out there either:

1. Has run an aftermarket skid set with a diff drop, or
2. Is familiar with their own skid mounting setup and confident it would (or wouldn’t) work?

In reality a diff drop is just a few spacers and longer bolts, dropping the two front diff mounts 1”, and the rear mount on the diff by maybe 3/8” to 1/2”. Along with those it also uses some 1” spacers and longer bolts in the diff mount bash guards, and in one spot further back in the factory skid guard. So I think many of the aftermarket skids out there will probably work just fine with my setup, so long as I source some extra spacers and longer bolts. But I’m looking to the group to speak from experience here as some vendors (like Ironman) say it should work fine but when I look at their mounting around the diff bolts I can’t see how it would work.

Incidentally I’m leaning towards Victory 4x4 or maybe ASFIR or ARB right now as I think 1/4” aluminum (or 4mm steel in the ARB case) will be sufficient for my level of abuse, has a low impact on additional vehicle weight, and all of the above won’t break the bank at around $900. (If $ and weight were no object I’d look at Slee or Budbuilt steel but I can’t justify 2x the cost). So anyone who has specific experience with these would be doubly helpful

 

[grinchy]

I had an 1/4” aluminum front skid (the angled part up to the bumper). It wasn’t reinforced well and got Toasted on the first hit it took. Prevented damage to the rig.
I’d suggest 3/16” steel front with solid reinforcement, aluminum or thin steel engine (between the wheels, doesn’t take much hits), steel transmission (after the wheels, lots of hits).
I like the idea of having a crossmember supported transfer case skid. Bud built and Asfir have this option.

@CharlieS may still have an aluminum budbuilt set for sale.

 

[linuxgod]

I had an 1/4” aluminum front skid (the angled part up to the bumper). It wasn’t reinforced well and got Toasted on the first hit it took. Prevented damage to the rig.
I’d suggest 3/16” steel front with solid reinforcement, aluminum or thin steel engine (between the wheels, doesn’t take much hits), steel transmission (after the wheels, lots of hits).
I like the idea of having a crossmember supported transfer case skid. Bud built and Asfir have this option.

@CharlieS may still have an aluminum budbuilt set for sale.

Thanks. What brand were yours?

Maybe I’ll lean towards 1/8” steel at least. I thought aluminum was roughly 2x the strength of steel, but maybe it’s just a the lack of reinforcement that did you in? The aluminum ones Turbo8 is making look stout but wont work with my DD kit. anyway i was leaning against aluminum because they’re just sooo much heavier to deal with. At least if the oil filter and drain plug are easily accessible the skids shouldn’t have to come off very often so maybe steel isn’t terrible.

The asfir ones look interesting to me. No cat protection, not that I worry about that too much as I’m garages at night. I think they’re only available in aluminum though.

Yeah I talked to CharlieS. I’d buy his, even a bit dented up, but shipping will probably add $250-300 to the cost and he’s 900 miles from me so picking them up is kind of out of the question.

 

[grinchy]

I had the Total Chaos aluminum engine and belly skid set. Still running the belly skid. Replaced the Front/Engine portion with budbuilt stainless/coated steel. I would go the 1/8" steel on the engine skid if I was to do it again, but I definitely like the 3/16" stainless front skid a lot. I got the budbuilt as the 'corner/bend/transition from slope to flat of the front skid is heavily reinforced, and that is where my aluminum front failed.

i use the Asfir Aluminum transfer skid and think it's a good piece, but if you start ordering bud built stuff, it's an integrated system and you might as well get it all.

i think Rival 4x4 has an aluminum skid set as well.

 

[grinchy]

@JetSurfer just posted this pic in a different thread. This very scraped angle/transition on the front skid is what I liked about the budbuilt product. It gets a lot of pressure and hits and having is triple thick is super nice.

 

[linuxgod]

I had the Total Chaos aluminum engine and belly skid set. Still running the belly skid. Replaced the Front/Engine portion with budbuilt stainless/coated steel. I would go the 1/8" steel on the engine skid if I was to do it again, but I definitely like the 3/16" stainless front skid a lot. I got the budbuilt as the 'corner/bend/transition from slope to flat of the front skid is heavily reinforced, and that is where my aluminum front failed.

i use the Asfir Aluminum transfer skid and think it's a good piece, but if you start ordering bud built stuff, it's an integrated system and you might as well get it all.

i think Rival 4x4 has an aluminum skid set as well.

Rival does have a skid set though I’d have to source the transfer case skid from ASFIR or someone else as they don’t seem to make one. I assume they’re compatible with each other as they both start/end at the cross-member but obvious can’t really tell until installation. Not sure if the Rival skids are compatible with my DD… probably but maybe someone will chime in on strength and compatibility of them (or any other options)

 

[linuxgod]

Ok I decided to try and gather my own facts as best I can tell from the videos and website info/photos. Anyone who has additional data please let me know and I'll update this table.

Option	Material	Weight	bare Cost	painted Cost	Cat protection	TC protection	DD Compatible	Oil Filter Access Door	Link
Bud built	Aluminum 1/4"	88	1910	2305	Yes	Yes	Possible	Yes	Skid Plates and Armor Components - https://budbuilt.com/Skid-Plates-and-Armor-Components_c_537.html
Bud built	Steel 3/16"	171	1204	1599	Yes	Yes	Possible	Yes	Skid Plates and Armor Components - https://budbuilt.com/Skid-Plates-and-Armor-Components_c_537.html
Bud built	Steel 1/8"	117	1114	1509	Yes	Yes	Possible	Yes	Skid Plates and Armor Components - https://budbuilt.com/Skid-Plates-and-Armor-Components_c_537.html
Asfir (w/ gas tank)	Aluminum 1/4"	90	1387		No	Yes	Likely	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Full Underbody Armor (4 Pcs) - https://www.asfir.com/underbody-protection-kit-558071b.html
Asfir	Aluminum 1/4"	62	931		No	Yes	Likely	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Underbody Armor (3 Pcs) - https://www.asfir.com/underbody-protection-kit-558056b.html
Rival	Aluminum 1/4"	61	817		No	No	Possible?	YEs	Toyota Land Cruiser - https://www.rival4x4usa.com/collections/toyota-land-cruiser
Slee	Steel 1/8" & 3/16"	140		1794	Yes	Yes	Maybe	Yes	SLEE- Skid Plate System -High Strength Steel - '08+ Land Cruiser / LX 570 - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sok2001/
ARB	Steel 1/8"	90		870	No	Some	Possible	No	Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/accessories.html
Dissent	Aluminum 1/4"	67	1925		Some	No	Unlikely	No	LC200 Skid Plates - https://dissentoffroad.com/products/lc200-skid-plates
Victory	Aluminum 1/4"	55	814	914	Some	Yes	Likely (Vendor)	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser Off-Road Parts and Accessories | Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/category/LC.html
Victory	Steel 3/16"	110	678	778	Some	Yes	Likely (Vendor)	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser Off-Road Parts and Accessories | Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/category/LC.html
Total Chaos	Aluminum 1/4"		765		Some?	No	Likely	No	Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2021 SKID PLATE & BELLY PAN | TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION - https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2008-2021-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-200-Series-Skid-Plate-Belly-Pan-58890
Ironman	Steel 1/8"			599	No	No	Unlikely	No	Heavy Duty Skid Plate Kit Suited For 2015-2021 Toyota 200 Series Land Cruiser / Lexus LX570 - https://ironman4x4america.com/heavy-duty-skid-plate-kit-suited-for-2015-2021-toyota-200-series-land-cruiser-lexus-lx570/

One thing I noticed that I don't like, Ironman and Victory both appear to have you drop a nut into the frame in order to mount the rear part of the engine belly skid. (Or at least I think Ironman does... can someone confirm that the LC install is the same as the Tundra video?) That seems hokey, and almost guaranteed some shop down the road is going to **** it up, lose the nut inside the frame, and then just give up and leave the bolt off. Which is a pity because I found a Tundra video which showed a guy with a 1" DD who installed the Ironman without any clearance issues, so it's otherwise kind of appealing as a starting point given the cost (assuming the LC has the same clearance...) Maybe combine with an ASFIR TC skid (which is currently $262) and it's not a bad setup. Anyone think some sort of captive nut or rivnut or something might work as an alternative option, or some way to secure the nut so it doesn't move when a shop pulls the skids?

Asfir looks like a good option, though I wish they had more reinforcement in the front. (Ironman actually has a nice looking reinforcement on the inside, probably because they're only using 1/8" steel). I can't weld but I was debating if I could find some extra 1/4" aluminum and bend it and bolt it to the plate if that would help sufficiently reinforce against a solid hit, otherwise I'm afraid I'll crush the front skid with one good hit like you did with your Total Chaos skid, @grinchy.

 

[grinchy]

Here are pics and install notes for the Asfir TC skid.

I think the cost of the skids is pretty labor driven, meaning the material costs are pretty similar. Labor is cutting unique shapes, brake work, and especially reinforced welding. My opinion after trying to get the lightest least $ solution, is that you can’t cut corners on armor, you get what you pay for. All that said. In areas that won’t take much many impacts, lighter gauge or less reinforcement might be a viable path. I think the Budbuilt mix n match gauge and material will get most bomber for least weight. And you can mix in stainless too.

 

[grinchy]

Ok I decided to try and gather my own facts as best I can tell from the videos and website info/photos. Anyone who has additional data please let me know and I'll update this table.

Option	Material	Weight	bare Cost	painted Cost	Cat protection	TC protection	DD Compatible	Oil Filter Access Door	Link
Bud built	Aluminum 1/4"	88	1910	2305	Yes	Yes	Possible	Yes	Skid Plates and Armor Components - https://budbuilt.com/Skid-Plates-and-Armor-Components_c_537.html
Bud built	Steel 3/16"	171	1204	1599	Yes	Yes	Possible	Yes	Skid Plates and Armor Components - https://budbuilt.com/Skid-Plates-and-Armor-Components_c_537.html
Bud built	Steel 1/8"	117	1114	1509	Yes	Yes	Possible	Yes	Skid Plates and Armor Components - https://budbuilt.com/Skid-Plates-and-Armor-Components_c_537.html
Asfir (w/ gas tank)	Aluminum 1/4"	90	1387		No	Yes	Likely	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Full Underbody Armor (4 Pcs) - https://www.asfir.com/underbody-protection-kit-558071b.html
Asfir	Aluminum 1/4"	62	931		No	Yes	Likely	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Underbody Armor (3 Pcs) - https://www.asfir.com/underbody-protection-kit-558056b.html
Rival	Aluminum 1/4"	61	817		No	No	Possible?	YEs	Toyota Land Cruiser - https://www.rival4x4usa.com/collections/toyota-land-cruiser
Slee	Steel 1/8" & 3/16"	140		1794	Yes	Yes	Maybe	Yes	SLEE- Skid Plate System -High Strength Steel - '08+ Land Cruiser / LX 570 - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sok2001/
ARB	Steel 1/8"	90		870	No	Some	Possible	No	Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/accessories.html
Dissent	Aluminum 1/4"	67	1925		No	No	Unlikely	No	LC200 Skid Plates - https://dissentoffroad.com/products/lc200-skid-plates
Victory	Aluminum 1/4"	55	814	914	Some	Yes	Likely (Vendor)	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser Off-Road Parts and Accessories | Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/category/LC.html
Victory	Steel 3/16"	110	678	778	Some	Yes	Likely (Vendor)	Yes	Toyota Land Cruiser Off-Road Parts and Accessories | Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/category/LC.html
Total Chaos	Aluminum 1/4"		765		Some?	No	Likely	No	Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2021 SKID PLATE & BELLY PAN | TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION - https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2008-2021-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-200-Series-Skid-Plate-Belly-Pan-58890
Ironman	Steel 1/8"			599	No	No	Unlikely	No	Heavy Duty Skid Plate Kit Suited For 2015-2021 Toyota 200 Series Land Cruiser / Lexus LX570 - https://ironman4x4america.com/heavy-duty-skid-plate-kit-suited-for-2015-2021-toyota-200-series-land-cruiser-lexus-lx570/

One thing I noticed that I don't like, Ironman and Victory both appear to have you drop a nut into the frame in order to mount the rear part of the engine belly skid. (Or at least I think Ironman does... can someone confirm that the LC install is the same as the Tundra video?) That seems hokey, and almost guaranteed some shop down the road is going to **** it up, lose the nut inside the frame, and then just give up and leave the bolt off. Which is a pity because I found a Tundra video which showed a guy with a 1" DD who installed the Ironman without any clearance issues, so it's otherwise kind of appealing as a starting point given the cost (assuming the LC has the same clearance...) Maybe combine with an ASFIR TC skid (which is currently $262) and it's not a bad setup. Anyone think some sort of captive nut or rivnut or something might work as an alternative option, or some way to secure the nut so it doesn't move when a shop pulls the skids?

Asfir looks like a good option, though I wish they had more reinforcement in the front. (Ironman actually has a nice looking reinforcement on the inside, probably because they're only using 1/8" steel). I can't weld but I was debating if I could find some extra 1/4" aluminum and bend it and bolt it to the plate if that would help sufficiently reinforce against a solid hit, otherwise I'm afraid I'll crush the front skid with one good hit like you did with your Total Chaos skid, @grinchy.

You should add this chart to the skid thread. Great research resource!

 

[CharlieS]

I thought the Budbuit aluminum was 3/16", but it measures out to 0.2495" as you said: 1/4".

Also, I'd note that Budbuilt has three kinds of steel offerings lite steel, steel and stainless steel. Steel and lite steel need finishing to avoid corrosion, wheres the stainless and aluminum offerings can be run bare.

The stainless 3/16 I have is like tank armor.

 

[CO18Cruiser]

@linuxgod Need to update of your info.

FYI Dissent does offer some cat protection (see pic). First 2 covered and back 2 are about 1/2-2/3 covered. Pretty tough to get in there with a sawzall. BB gas tank skid is on the right btw.

With the BB skids, the tcase skid closes the loop on rearmost cat protection, otherwise they’re exposed too.

Iirc Slee doesn’t protect back cats or the tcase unless they’ve changed it up since I last looked at them.

I do wish Dissent offered a tcase skid.

 

[grinchy]

I was curious what a front to transfer case solution cost at BB. Stainless, lite coated, aluminum, aluminum was $1790.

I am skeptical it’ll work with the diff drop though.

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod Need to update of your info.

FYI Dissent does offer some cat protection (see pic). First 2 covered and back 2 are about 1/2-2/3 covered. Pretty tough to get in there with a sawzall. BB gas tank skid is on the right btw.

With the BB skids, the tcase skid closes the loop on rearmost cat protection, otherwise they’re exposed too.

Iirc Slee doesn’t protect back cats or the tcase unless they’ve changed it up since I last looked at them.

I do wish Dissent offered a tcase skid.

View attachment 3252908

Updated

BB offers a cat protection option now for the second set.

Slee hangs over the crossmember and provides some TC protection, though it doesn’t have an additional crossmember support like BB or ASFIR

 

[CO18Cruiser]

Updated

BB offers a cat protection option now for the second set.

Slee hangs over the crossmember and provides some TC protection, though it doesn’t have an additional crossmember support like BB or ASFIR

Iirc the BB cat specific protectors are for folks that use the OE skids, Otherwise the BB tranny skid has similar coverage as the dissent skid (See pic).

 

[CharlieS]

The budbuikt transmission skid plus transfer skid covers all cats.

 

[CharlieS]

I thought the Budbuit aluminum was 3/16", but it measures out to 0.2495" as you said: 1/4".

Also, I'd note that Budbuilt has three kinds of steel offerings lite steel, steel and stainless steel. Steel and lite steel need finishing to avoid corrosion, wheres the stainless and aluminum offerings can be run bare.

The stainless 3/16 I have is like tank armor.

Oh, and the stainless steel is more expensive, so that's another reason to have a separate table row, since you include price.

 

[sleepintheback]

Bud built doesn't work with dif drops. I took my diff drop off to use the BB aluminum set. The guy I talked to on the phone convinced me that the drop isn't necessary.

 

[linuxgod]

Oh, and the stainless steel is more expensive, so that's another reason to have a separate table row, since you include price.

Yeah the price was really just for my reference, as I'm sure it will change over time. I didn't include SS because given the price I wasn't going to spend the $ on it, I'm either going aluminum or regular steel painted with POR15 in my garage for about $50, but maybe I'll go back and update for those interested. I didn't include Turbo8's skids or a few other hard-to-come-by options (like Kaon) because of timing or cost (or just no discernible advantage for a similar cost to something already available).

At the moment I'm on the fence between ASFIR and Ironman (with an ASFIR TC skid). The ASFIR front seems OK for my purposes, though like many of you guys I'll probably hit it hard once and then regret it, and I feel like one decent hit will shred the bolts holding the protruding oil filter door off. Ironman semes about the same strength as ARB, so not great for heavy rock bashing, but I try to avoid those lines so 1/8" steel with some reinforcement is probably OK for me. Downside is I can't confirm how much diff bolt clearance there actually is and their support was worthless when I asked.

I do like BB but Taco2cruiser noted a while back that I might be able to make it work with a DD and extra spacers but it's not really designed for that setup. I've toyed with 3/16" steel for the engine skid, 1/8" steel for the transmission, and then using the ASFIR aluminum option for the TC. With shipping it puts me around $1150, plus whatever it costs me to etch and POR15 them. It also adds 100# which isn't the end of the world but lighter weight aluminum that would save another 60-70# is appealing. Man I wish I lived closer to Vermont...

 

[TLC2013]

Here's an option from Kaon which is compatible with diff drops. Disclaimer states spacers must be used with diff drops. It's offered for the diesel 200 so not sure how plug and play it will be with the US spec 5.7.

Bash Plate Toyota LC200 V8 Diesel Front and Sump Underbody Guards

Protect your engine with our Front Sump Underbody Guards to suit Toyota Landcruiser.

www.kaon.com.au

 

[linuxgod]

Bud built doesn't work with dif drops. I took my diff drop off to use the BB aluminum set. The guy I talked to on the phone convinced me that the drop isn't necessary.

Yeah it probably isn't necessary, but I have it installed already. I find when towing that the front end lifts up a bunch, which puts my CVs at a pretty steep angle (as if I have a 3" lift, which I don't). I'm not worried about the binding, but it puts a lot of stress on them at those angles and I'd rather avoid the wear associated since solidly half my driving involves a trailer.