D4S HID connector burnt out

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WTITW

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I must not have fully seated the bulb when I changed it because the connector in one is fried. Anyone know if I can replace just that connector? I have AFS…

Pulling the headlight out looks like some work.
 
Bundling as one unit would be typical of Toyota/Lexus, which usually = $$$.
 
It was only $40 on ebay but the real payment will be pulling my headlight out to replace it. I haven’t checked the fsm yet but I understand these endeavors usually require removing the transmission and rear pinion gear first.
I thought you also had to turn your vehicle on it's side for easier access too! Sometimes laying it on drivers side, sometimes, passenger side.
 



"Replacing a ballast on a car with AFS requires pulling or loosening the lateral position motor to fish the cable connecting the ballast to the bulb. When I initially put things back together with the new ballast and bulb, I failed to notice that the projector's framework was not engaged with the position motor. The projector had fallen forward so that the focus was way too high. I pulled the housings again and paid careful attention to aligning the projector axis and engage the position motor before tightening everything up."
 
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"Replacing a ballast on a car with AFS requires pulling or loosening the lateral position motor to fish the cable connecting the ballast to the bulb. When I initially put things back together with the new ballast and bulb, I failed to notice that the projector's framework was not engaged with the position motor. The projector had fallen forward so that the focus was way too high. I pulled the housings again and paid careful attention to aligning the projector axis and engage the position motor before tightening everything up."
All done now? If so, how long did it take you?
... EDIT. Thought I was responding to Jake's thread.
 
I swapped a headlight after getting side swiped in may. Its not bad.

I already already had my top valance cover off to make the radiator more accessible and keep a good eye on my overflow.

My bumper cover is also jacked, so I only had about a half dozen fasteners to remove from the bumper and grille.
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@r2m This weekend. You want to come over and help? Do you happen to have a transmission jack and “lateral position motor” puller?
Give me a minute, I need to check if I have those in my recovery gear bag on my rig.
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Nope. no can do. Nothing like that in my bag.
 
It wasn't that bad. Here's a quick write up for fixing a GX460 HID Ballast.

Step one, remove bumper. After all the screws come out, there is a wiper fluid hose connector on the R side that you disconnect by squeezing it at a junction with tabs. Have a 1gallon bucket ready as the wiper fluid will drain completely out once detached. The is a single electrical connector on the L side for the fogs.
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Headlight removal: FSM Says to remove the Bumper Bar Reinforcement but I left it in place. The headlight has 3 bolts. One through the fender side support thing, and two on top. There's also a clip holding the little plastic shield that separates the headlight from the grill area. There is a foot clip/claw as well.
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HID Ballast removal and repalcement:

With the light fixture out, weather cover removed and HID bulb removed, place the light face down and removed four screws holding ballast to fixture. Note, mine had a different part number than the one I got on eBay ($37 shipped), but worked fine
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With the Ballast lose. Use a long screw driver the gently disengage the ballast power connector.
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Will finish later, gotta run to a birthday party!
 
I'm always concerned about excessive bumper cover removals. It seems this is more or less naturally occurring but can occur with bumps and repeated removals too.

 
HID Ballast removal and repalcement:

With the light fixture out, weather cover removed and HID bulb removed, place the light face down and removed four screws holding ballast to fixture. Note, mine had a different part number than the one I got on eBay ($37 shipped), but worked fineView attachment 3958190


With the Ballast lose. Use a long screw driver the gently disengage the ballast power connector.View attachment 3958198
Will finish later, gotta run to a birthday party!
Great write-up so far!
 
After disconnecting the ballast you need to fish out the connector from around the projector.
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To do that all you have to do is disconnect and remove the leveling motor. To do that you rotate it 90 degrees, pull it out about a half inch and then tilt the motor up away from the ballast so that the ball connector is pushed down and pops out of the claw it's connected to inside the housing. Be careful when you rotate, it has a small nub that rest in the valley between the two plastic tabs, one of the tabs broke on mine, but was in good enough shape I didn't even glue it. Probably should have glued it : )

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The FSM calls for disassembling the the black thing inside the projector housing, but I was able to easily fish the connector out around it, once the leveling motor was removed.
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Don't forget to look for and replace the Ballast gasket before you reassemble. Make sure it's not stuck to the old ballast.
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Reassemble in reverse order.

Close out strong by drinking two beers and telling your wife how smart and strong you are for changing a part you probably broke in the first place… at least that’s how it goes down at my house.
 
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Between changing out my heater hoses, flushing the coolant and fixing the headlight I got to have a little fun. I've had this 4 camera RV / Truck carplay system for a while which makes an amazing BU camera with my trailer. While I had the grill off, I took a couple hours to route another camera to the front and figure out how to mount it. It's not a off-road birds-eye view like the 550, but should help quite a bit.

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Obstacles seem to align pretty well to the bottom L/R corners of screen. Might try to turn on BU lines and see if that helps.
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I can also carplay Gaia and OnX and switch to the 4 camera view super easy. Most useful vanity gadget I've put on this thing and it was only $150 plus a few extension cables for the cameras and odds/end for wiring and mounting cams.
 
Between changing out my heater hoses, flushing the coolant and fixing the headlight I got to have a little fun. I've had this 4 camera RV / Truck carplay system for a while which makes an amazing BU camera with my trailer. While I had the grill off, I took a couple hours to route another camera to the front and figure out how to mount it. It's not a off-road birds-eye view like the 550, but should help quite a bit.

View attachment 3958749View attachment 3958751
View attachment 3958750View attachment 3958748
Obstacles seem to align pretty well to the bottom L/R corners of screen. Might try to turn on BU lines and see if that helps.
View attachment 3958747View attachment 3958752
I can also carplay Gaia and OnX and switch to the 4 camera view super easy. Most useful vanity gadget I've put on this thing and it was only $150 plus a few extension cables for the cameras and odds/end for wiring and mounting cams.
Since you're so deep into this project with the whole front end off, have you considered swapping out to LED's? You already have one light off...
 
have you considered swapping out to LED's?
Yeah. Did all that a while back. Auxbeam sent me high beam and fog light upgrades. Have the video shot. Need to edit.

LED’s swapped in from halogen bulbs are a HUGE upgrade. Ive been heading up the hill at night a lot this summer and they’re so bright Ive stopped using my light bar which I used to put on when I knew Id be wheeling at night.
 

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