Cyclical squeak noise while driving

[VoltaGX]

Hi everyone

I'm chasing a noise my GX is making. 2004, 201k miles, unknown driveline maintenance aside from fluid changes in diffs and tcase about 30k ago. I noticed recently while driving with the windows up and the radio off, there's a cyclical squeak coming from somewhere. It sort of sounds like it's coming from the passenger side. This squeak increases in frequency with wheel speed. It's most noticable around 30-70mph. Confirmed it's not the engine as it's quiet as a mouse while at a stop light or in park. It doesn't go away or get louder with brakes applied, either.

My first guess would be wheel bearing, but it's not humming and there's no "gritty" feeling(at least that I can tell, the truck is still pretty new to me). I'm just making this thread to pick some brains and see if there's maybe something else that could be causing this.

Thanks!

 

[sshevela]

Im hearing the same thing but its coming from the interior. Like one of the seat mounts is loose or something.

 

[aztoytec]

Try lubing your U joints and slip yokes. May have a dry U joint.

 

[VoltaGX]

Try lubing your U joints and slip yokes. May have a dry U joint.

This could be a good holiday weekend project for me. I know the slip yokes need done for sure as I get that "thud" when coming to a stop or accelerating from a stop. I seem to remember reading about different grease types being needed for u-joints vs slip yokes... is that still a thing?

 

[aztoytec]

I’ve always used the red heavy duty bearing grease. Never had any issues. There maybe a heavier grease too help with the slip yoke(?)

 

[VoltaGX]

I’ve always used the red heavy duty bearing grease. Never had any issues. There maybe a heavier grease too help with the slip yoke(?)

I'll just get some of the red. I'm sure it'll be fine if thats what you use. Thanks for the tip, I didn't even consider u-joint.

 

[NudeLobster]

I'll just get some of the red. I'm sure it'll be fine if thats what you use. Thanks for the tip, I didn't even consider u-joint.

it may be too late to fix the slip yoke clunk with grease. it's worth a try but with 200k miles you may be better off just buying a brand new assembled driveshaft with the updated yoke. This would replace your u-joints as well. I replaced my rear shaft at 115k and had my front driveshaft u-joints fail at 170k miles.

Bell lexus in Scottsdale has a GXOR/iH8mud discount. They are trying to make a position in the 4x4 market as a supportive dealer.

at 200k with a cyclic wheel speed sound, I'd check your front wheel bearings as well. Mine were toast at 130k.

Good luck and report back!

 

[HomersCanyonero]

it may be too late to fix the slip yoke clunk with grease. it's worth a try but with 200k miles you may be better off just buying a brand new assembled driveshaft with the updated yoke. This would replace your u-joints as well. I replaced my rear shaft at 115k and had my front driveshaft u-joints fail at 170k miles.

Bell lexus in Scottsdale has a GXOR/iH8mud discount. They are trying to make a position in the 4x4 market as a supportive dealer.

at 200k with a cyclic wheel speed sound, I'd check your front wheel bearings as well. Mine were toast at 130k.

Good luck and report back!

I never thought of the drive shaft as a wear item that needs replacing. I always thought of it a repair as needed item.

Unfortunately, I have the driveshaft clunk and it’s on my list of things to repair

 

[VoltaGX]

it may be too late to fix the slip yoke clunk with grease. it's worth a try but with 200k miles you may be better off just buying a brand new assembled driveshaft with the updated yoke. This would replace your u-joints as well. I replaced my rear shaft at 115k and had my front driveshaft u-joints fail at 170k miles.

Bell lexus in Scottsdale has a GXOR/iH8mud discount. They are trying to make a position in the 4x4 market as a supportive dealer.

at 200k with a cyclic wheel speed sound, I'd check your front wheel bearings as well. Mine were toast at 130k.

Good luck and report back!

I've considered the updated driveshaft, if a good grease doesn't fix it I'll replace it.

Thanks for the information on Bell, I work close by so I will make sure to utilize them!

And lastly I'm going to check the front hubs out this weekend while greasing the ujoints and the yokes.. Hoping that the issue will be fairly obvious.. Just hoping and praying the issue doesn't lie in the diff or tcase

 

[NudeLobster]

I've considered the updated driveshaft, if a good grease doesn't fix it I'll replace it.

Thanks for the information on Bell, I work close by so I will make sure to utilize them!

And lastly I'm going to check the front hubs out this weekend while greasing the ujoints and the yokes.. Hoping that the issue will be fairly obvious.. Just hoping and praying the issue doesn't lie in the diff or tcase

That reminds me, check your front diff bushings too. The diff should be just fine, but my mounts had worn by 150k to a point that allowed the Diff to move under power to the point that my outer CV end moved almost 2 inches.

 

[VoltaGX]

That reminds me, check your front diff bushings too. The diff should be just fine, but my mounts had worn by 150k to a point that allowed the Diff to move under power to the point that my outer CV end moved almost 2 inches.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but which bushings are these? I only know of the front diff mount that needs to be changed out on early models. Never looked further into it.

 

[NudeLobster]

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but which bushings are these? I only know of the front diff mount that needs to be changed out on early models. Never looked further into it.

The rubber bushings are located in those front mount arms. There’s a 3rd bushing near the input shaft that has a big Allen key nut holding it to the subframe. That rear bushing is integrated into the rear mount, they call it mount #3