Cuttin' up an 80...

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Well, normally I wouldnt, but I can see the person wanting to tackle this wants reasonable simplicity, and is on a budget, and I think you would agree, the 40" is probably nearly double the work of the 38" to fit correctly on a full wagon.

[and my HUGE 285's on the long distance trip vehicle speak volumes.... ::)]
 
Gumby-

THANK YOU.

Shed-

Aren't we ALL on a budget? Seriously... I'm trying to stay away from a body lift if at all possible, and Christo and I have spoken at length about suspension possiblities. Looks like I'm cutting up some sheetmetal this winter and then praying to the Arctic Truck gods. I just REALLY don't like the idea of fiberglass anything on a truck that regularly see's rocks. (not mud...ugh) Maybe I can get our fiberglass guy to copy them in carbon kevlar or carbon fiber... hmm. That might be worthwhile.

Anybody have any ideas other than Swampers for tires this large? Maybe Michelin XML's?

J
 
I agree on the budget thing, thats why I bought it up, I would be cutting and welding before I fitted arctic stuff, would get torn off first trip.

Where as enlarging the original openings and welding sections in, along with a slight tweak of the front axle forward and the rear axle backward should see 38"s go on easily.

And Im a big fan of TSL's.....
 
[quote author=WolfpackTLC link=board=12;threadid=6241;start=msg51390#msg51390 date=1066269838]
Aren't we ALL on a budget? Seriously... Maybe I can get our fiberglass guy to copy them in carbon kevlar or carbon fiber... hmm. That might be worthwhile.
[/quote]

Man that's the epitome of an oxy moran...

As far as the tires go I think the XML's are sik but uber heavy.
Why not go with an mtr ? it can be had in a 37 or a 40. Then you could go to discount and get them with a lifetime road hazard warranty ;)

The Iroks are also sure to be light weight , though I'm not sure on sizing.

If your looking for all around tough it's hard to beat a bias TSL...
 
I hear that the IROK's wear fast... those won't fit into the budget... And I though owning a home would be cheaper than renting... hah. Maybe in the long run. I have to reseed my lawn before winter. I had no idea grass cost so much... or fertilizer.

Man that's the epitome of an oxy moran...
Click to expand...

Moralien-

I co-own/race w/ some guys on a team, so we all pool our resources and specialites together. I regularly turn wrenches on the road and drag car, and work on the engine management and tuning. Other guys setup suspension, and such. We've got two guys from Titusville, who did molding work for (believe it or not ) NASA and are AWESOME w/ fiberglass... I'm ok, but these guys are phenomenal. Plus, CF and CK aren't much more expensive than fiberglass if you're doing it yourself. It's all just mat and resin.

As for the MT/R's, they just don't cut it in the goo we have out east... I need something w/ more void. Plus, I can get the XML's cheap from some connections in the military. :D

The only problem w/ bias ply is that they SUCK on the road... hmph.

Where as enlarging the original openings and welding sections in, along with a slight tweak of the front axle forward and the rear axle backward should see 38"s go on easily.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that as well, (FA forward and RA back) but the MAN (C. Slee ) says no go... I've already got his arms up front.. no farther forward for me...
 
Might have to send Mr Slee a diagram, :slap: it simple really, and will save chopping the rear doors, and the floor area at the back of the front arch, but if you have his arms already, them you could always move the mount on the chassis easy enough. 1" movement allows a 2" bigger dia tyre, but does not effect spring or shock mounts.If you used Arctic truck flares, they move the rear axle back 6" and the front forward 2".

Now, let me understand this, you want 38" plus tyres, but you dont like bias ply because they dont drive nice on the road?? ::) :P
 
Darren-

Yeah, guess I want the best of both worlds, huh? I hear XML's ride nice...

J
 
[quote author=the shed guy link=board=12;threadid=6241;start=msg51752#msg51752 date=1066349857]
Might have to send Mr Slee a diagram, [/quote]

Get on the plane and come show me :-) Wolf's truck already has our arms and the front axle is about 2" forward. He could move the rear, but that will make it worse. From looking at the articulation on the short bus with 40's you would have to cut a hell of a lot to get max travel. Not that it can not be done.

Look at the back tire position in this picture http://www.sleeoffroad.com/trails/Cruise_Moab_2003/pritchett/P1010207.jpg

That is completely stuffed and the bumpstop is already dropped 3"
 
Look at the back tire position in this picture
Click to expand...

Showoff... ;)

Nah, I'm just jealous.

Those are 40's though, right Christo?
 
[quote author=sleeoffroad link=board=12;threadid=6241;start=msg52011#msg52011 date=1066408598]
Get on the plane and come show me :-) Wolf's truck already has our arms and the front axle is about 2" forward. He could move the rear, but that will make it worse. From looking at the articulation on the short bus with 40's you would have to cut a hell of a lot to get max travel. Not that it can not be done.

Look at the back tire position in this picture http://www.sleeoffroad.com/trails/Cruise_Moab_2003/pritchett/P1010207.jpg

That is completely stuffed and the bumpstop is already dropped 3"

[/quote]

I didnt know your arms moved the front axle already Christo, tht will help the front.

We know a 36" fits inside the door, and a 37 does too, so moving the rear axle back another inch or so will fit the 38.5 maybe even a 40", then mainly the inner and top and rear of the fender needs extending, which by cutting whats required out, then getting some sheetmetal fabbed to suit the new hole, will fit.

A car with standard arms and a 4" lify would have the axle swing forward an inch or more anyway, so really you would be re aligning the axle to the correct position. :D

Not unlike tubs in a drag car,
 
Longer rear arms will also help with the rear steer issue. And shed is right, it will allow you not to cut the door. Cutting the rear quarter might not be so bad. You might have to loose the wheelwells as well and put new ones in. Also, you will have to go with less backspacing on the wheels, otherwise you will hit the frame on compression.
 
Longer rear arms will also help with the rear steer issue
Click to expand...

So Christo, do you know of any speciality Land Cruiser shops in the US, particularly in Colorado, that may have or be planning to make some longer rear arms? I heard about this one place... Slee Offroad, but I hear that the owner is a crazy South African. Do you know anything about their work? Quality?

You might have to loose the wheelwells as well and put new ones in
Click to expand...

That wouldn't be so bad... Like Shed said, tubs. We can do that...
 
[intentionally staying away from the "crazy SA" line ] :D

We use 50mm x 25mm x 5mm [2"x1"x1/4] RHS scollop the ends with holesaw, and cut off the original eyes and weld them to the RHS, at the length we require.

Ive had trouble with bending the original rear arms, and stretching the eyes, and I made 2mm thicker eyes for my 80 arms.

Though a set of arms that swivel may help the bushes, unless a johhny joiny or similar will fit one end..
 
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