Custom FJC bumper

[speedrye]

A few of you saw the beginnings to my bumper build at the Leith show and I figured I'd post up a few pictures as it goes together. There are several phases to it, but here are a few pictures of the progress:

What was at the show (before primer):

Second phase going together:

Second phase partially welded in place (again, before primer or grinding or anything):

More pictures to come as progress is made. So far everything is going together as I designed it with minimal persuasion. It's a slow process, but I'm happy with the clearance and the weight savings over the ARB that it replaces. The crappy part is starting all over with the lighting... The best part is how wonderfully the top of the light boxes hold beer while standing around and talking.

 

[jfz80]

Looking good Ryan. really like that front perspective in the last shot.

 

[96Cruiser13]

That's sweet! want an 80 to work on? Haha

 

[speedrye]

That's sweet! want an 80 to work on? Haha

If you're gonna give it to me, sure. I wouldn't turn down a free 80

This is my first experience doing any fab work like this. A learning experience to be sure, but it's much easier than I expected to design custom parts and have them cut and bent for me. While I was at it, I had them cut and bend the bracket I designed for the new fuse box I made. This could get addictive.

 

[sarca]

Looking good!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What's the name of the shop that's making these pieces for you??

Good work!!!

 

[speedrye]

I ended up going with Brisco, Inc. up near Black Mountain in NC. So far, all of the parts have been spot-on with what I've designed and sent the CAD files for. The pricing was much cheaper than anyone else I talked to and even though it takes 1-3 weeks to get a batch of parts back, it's worth it to me. Laser cutting has been within .005" tolerance and the bending is within 1/32" from end to end.

I'll definitely be making more stuff in the future, but hopefully I can get a welder in the meantime and refresh my memory. I used to do a decent amount of stick welding, but very little MIG and no TIG. I've got a decent number of welding projects coming up, so it might make sense to get a basic MIG machine.

 

[Rice]

I ended up going with Brisco, Inc. up near Black Mountain in NC. So far, all of the parts have been spot-on with what I've designed and sent the CAD files for. The pricing was much cheaper than anyone else I talked to and even though it takes 1-3 weeks to get a batch of parts back, it's worth it to me. Laser cutting has been within .005" tolerance and the bending is within 1/32" from end to end.

I'll definitely be making more stuff in the future, but hopefully I can get a welder in the meantime and refresh my memory. I used to do a decent amount of stick welding, but very little MIG and no TIG. I've got a decent number of welding projects coming up, so it might make sense to get a basic MIG machine.

Hey neighbor, you're very welcome to come use my Miller 252 when you wish. I believe we are only 5 minutes from each other.

 

[speedrye]

I might take you up on that! Standard payment of beer and replenishing of welding supplies?

 

[Rice]

I might take you up on that! Standard payment of beer and replenishing of welding supplies?

Just the . I'm certain there will be a time when I can use your expertise.

Sent a PM with contact info.

Rice

 

[kulangot]

Rice, the 252 is sweet machine. I bought a MM 250 back in 1995 and it is still going strong. I sold it to a friend a few years ago when I moved to CA and have regretted it since!

Have you played with the spot timer features and the post flow?

Good stuff for sheet metal welding and rust repair.

 

[Rice]

Rice, the 252 is sweet machine. I bought a MM 250 back in 1995 and it is still going strong. I sold it to a friend a few years ago when I moved to CA and have regretted it since!

Have you played with the spot timer features and the post flow?

Good stuff for sheet metal welding and rust repair.

I have not played with the spot timer, even though it's one of reasons I picked the Miller. I do love this machine, though. My previous welder was a Lincoln SP200 which was great for putting farm equipment back together but I couldn't get it cool enough to weld thin sheet. I was never able to put my finger on how much of it was the machine and how much was me. While I still don't really know the answer to that question it's clear the 252 is much more forgiving to the guy behind the trigger.

I do have a little pre and post-flow dialed in just so the area stays flooded and to help place the blame for mistakes squarely on the user.

There are still many scenarios I wish to explore like stainless and aluminum (no spool gun yet) but with mild steel tis a blast to use.

 

[kulangot]

It may not make sense but the bigger welders work better on sheet metal as they often have a lower low end, they have a huge duty cycle, massive rectifier and all that means a super stable and smooth arc. See attached pic of my MM250 on 16g

I owned a MM 250 and a MM130 at the same time. The bigger welder was better in every way - much better on sheet metal. The little welder was well, portable

I would love to check out that timer - will have to see if the Miller Road show will pass through here one day - most likely in Charlotte. Do you know if it is like the old Miller 200 where every time you pull the trigger you get one spot or can you set it like a TIG welder so that you hold the trigger down and it pulses and flows gas until you let go? If so, I might have to buy one.

I manually pulse when I weld sheet metal, would love to have a timer. This technique is covered in a Toyota SSB from a long time ago when they switched from regular mild steel to HSS steel in about 1973. You can weld mild steel with oxy-fuel (gas welder) but not HSS - for that you need mig. Toyota put out a body work manual at the time showing how to MIG it with stacked spot welds. A friend who restores Porsche 356's taught me more or less the same technique. Obviously not good for roll cages but ideal for sheet metal

The HSS steel switch is to blame for the rust that is more a problem in later trucks than earlier ones. Thinner and more carbon therefore less stable and faster to rust - kinda like a Boy Scout Knife or a Kabar which are prone to rust. Most manufactures did not sort this out until the mid to late 80's with improved coatings before paint. Went on a rafting trip with a metallurgist who worked for the big three. He explained it in great detail.

Back to the thread, sorry for the Hi-Jack. The laser cutting is amazing. Nice to know that you get that done around here. Is that stainless? What alloy? TIG process? NICE!

-Stumbaugh

 

[Rice]

John, there are 2 timers that can be used in conjunction with each other. The "spot" timer that controls how long the trigger is hot and the "Stitch" timer that controls how long the arc is inactive while you're holding the trigger.

Any time you are in the triad area come out and take mine for a test drive. I'll arrange to have some other cruiser folks to come by, put some burgers on the grill, and you can give a mini-welding lesson. The best part about the cruiser community is I never stop learning.

Ryan, really sorry about the hijack. Back to some awesome bumper info.

 

[kulangot]

I was talking to the guys down here about a welding tech day.

Back to the thread - is there a way you could tie the bumper into that front body mount? Sandwich into it somehow if you are going to have wings that come out the sides? Looks like there is a lot of strength there. Would be an ideal reinforcement for recovery points to go all the back and tie into that and then pierce through the front of the bumper?

I know it's not finished, not a critique - just an idea!

 

[speedrye]

Heck, keep on hijacking guys, I'm learning stuff as you guys talk shop.

Stumbaugh, I'm actually bypassing the body mount with a bracket (not yet seen in pictures) that's connecting the top of the mount back to the frame to triangulate everything. I'm not too worried about recovery points since I'm using the stock ones and Toyota did them right. I've never seen or heard of a failure in the stock front recovery points. They're a little low, but I can make something work between those and the winch.
I'm keeping this thing on a tight budget and all the plate is 3/16" and 1/8" HREW. All tubing is DOM 1.75"x.125".

Rice, feel free to critique as well! I know I don't have much detail shown in the pictures, but I'll post up more pictures soon. The welding should be finished on the main body tonight and I'll start cleaning it up to prepare for paint. All welding to this point has been done with a Miller 210. Here are a few more during the process. More to come tomorrow.

 

[speedrye]

Bumper is welded up and mostly cleaned up.

A few shots during the process:

Mostly cleaned up. Final cleaning in the next day or two with primer to follow:

Here's a test shot of a new LED spot beam that's in development. I'm hoping it's got a nice long range beam, but it looks nice and tight in the close up picture. This should compliment my other LED bars and the rest of the HIDs that will go in the bumper.

 

[speedrye]

Making some progress slowly... Shown with temporary lighting, no winch provisions mounted yet and missing the outer wings, but it's progress nonetheless.