Nice! Did you make the nut and retaining ring or modify what you already had?
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Yes, I designed both pieces and had them manufactured.
tmxmotorsports
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This uses only a single spindle nut?
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tmxmotorsports
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I get the concept I have always hated Dana style inner nut with the little tits that go through the locking washer that break off that said I would me personally would prefer 2 spindle nuts not sure how you could design it that way tho with that style screw.
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Not much to update but drove to NC and back again for the ONSC Relic Run this year.. along with a convoy of all my other running LC’s driven by my employees 
62 didn’t hiccup even once, and was basically the only vehicle on the whole trip that was rock solid and didn’t have any problems, and ending being pretty much a mobile repair shop the whole time.
Everything else, lots of problems, but everything made it there and back
62 didn’t hiccup even once, and was basically the only vehicle on the whole trip that was rock solid and didn’t have any problems, and ending being pretty much a mobile repair shop the whole time.
Everything else, lots of problems, but everything made it there and back
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However, all is not perfect in Matt world. I am still having an issue up front (somehow I made it worse actually), and a new one I created inadvertently.
Prepare for ramble-dump.
when I re-did all the front end stuff last fall, I thought I corrected this but I am still getting my tires rubbing on the leaf springs at full lock. Additionally, the offset heims on the tie rod are not working. I get a small dead spot in the steering and it moves around too much, especially with the ram assist
I would also like to loose my front 1” wheels spacers so I can tuck the tires back under the fenders more. However this will make the issue even worse.
I would really really like to just cut everything off and link this thing and put it on coil-overs but I struggle to justify the work and cost for the two times a year at most I can actually wheel it.
So here is what I am thinking.
Widen axle housing 1” on driver side. Loose wheel spacers. So front WMS will get 1” narrower but knuckle pivot point will move outwards .5” on each side. This will result in slightly less tire swing (scrub) and hopefully help alleviate rubbing on springs.
This will also move the front differential .5” inboard so I can remount the leaf springs .5” inboard on each side which will involve: -re-doing my front spring hangers (easy)
-moving the left side axle spring perch 1” (pretty easy)
-and getting .5” offset shackles (easy).
Pros:
-probably can get away with reusing my
existing fancy brand new steering linkages.
-not as much work as option 2.
Con: a lot of work to only gain .5”-1” in a bunch of places. Might not make the difference I need
Alternative option:
widen axle 2” on passenger side, make same changes to leaf springs as option 1, (would have to mod both housing perches instead of just left side), and get/mod wheels with .5”-1” more backspace to get to my track width goal.
Pros:
-Will be more effective than option 1.
Con:
-probably need new tie rod
-most likely means a wheel change (can I just have front wheels with different backspacing then rears? Is this illegal?)
My overall thought is the more I can move the knuckle pivot outward and the tire centerline inboards the better things will be. Will also help turning radius.
The question is just how much. Everything clears in the shop, on the lift at static situation. It’s just offroad with weight shifting, tire and spring and bushing deflection, where it’s an issue. The blight of horse and buggy tech.
I am also over the tires rubbing the fenders here and there.
I’ve accepted this truck isn’t getting restored and they are both destroyed anyways so I am ready to really cut them.
Prepare for ramble-dump.
when I re-did all the front end stuff last fall, I thought I corrected this but I am still getting my tires rubbing on the leaf springs at full lock. Additionally, the offset heims on the tie rod are not working. I get a small dead spot in the steering and it moves around too much, especially with the ram assist
I would also like to loose my front 1” wheels spacers so I can tuck the tires back under the fenders more. However this will make the issue even worse.
I would really really like to just cut everything off and link this thing and put it on coil-overs but I struggle to justify the work and cost for the two times a year at most I can actually wheel it.
So here is what I am thinking.
Widen axle housing 1” on driver side. Loose wheel spacers. So front WMS will get 1” narrower but knuckle pivot point will move outwards .5” on each side. This will result in slightly less tire swing (scrub) and hopefully help alleviate rubbing on springs.
This will also move the front differential .5” inboard so I can remount the leaf springs .5” inboard on each side which will involve: -re-doing my front spring hangers (easy)
-moving the left side axle spring perch 1” (pretty easy)
-and getting .5” offset shackles (easy).
Pros:
-probably can get away with reusing my
existing fancy brand new steering linkages.
-not as much work as option 2.
Con: a lot of work to only gain .5”-1” in a bunch of places. Might not make the difference I need
Alternative option:
widen axle 2” on passenger side, make same changes to leaf springs as option 1, (would have to mod both housing perches instead of just left side), and get/mod wheels with .5”-1” more backspace to get to my track width goal.
Pros:
-Will be more effective than option 1.
Con:
-probably need new tie rod
-most likely means a wheel change (can I just have front wheels with different backspacing then rears? Is this illegal?)
My overall thought is the more I can move the knuckle pivot outward and the tire centerline inboards the better things will be. Will also help turning radius.
The question is just how much. Everything clears in the shop, on the lift at static situation. It’s just offroad with weight shifting, tire and spring and bushing deflection, where it’s an issue. The blight of horse and buggy tech.
I am also over the tires rubbing the fenders here and there.
I’ve accepted this truck isn’t getting restored and they are both destroyed anyways so I am ready to really cut them.
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Thinking about (from my couch, not looking at the wheels directly in front of me) the FJC steelies I have, I don’t see why I can’t cut the wheel centers out and remount them further out to deepen the backspace of the wheels a bit?
On the other hand. Those new Nomad 17x8.5’s in 6.13” backspace are pretty sweet looking.
Wonder how well they hold up to direct rock impacts
On the other hand. Those new Nomad 17x8.5’s in 6.13” backspace are pretty sweet looking.
Wonder how well they hold up to direct rock impacts
Last edited:
Or divert the funds to your 45?
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Definitely want to loose the spacers,
and I’m pretty sure I want to widen the housing, it’s just a question of I can widen it 2” AND narrow my track width 2” (by loosing spacers and changing wheel dimensions), and still have full steering with leaf springs.
I can move the springs inboard about .5” each, after that they are past the frame rail (no benefit)
Pinion alignment is a non-issue. Have tons of room and driveshaft is super long. Also when I switch to HF2a it will get 2” closer to center at the transfer case (different offset then splitcase) so it will fix itself later
IMO don't narrow your track width after widening the housing. Widening the housing to lose the spacers will help tremendously with your scrub radius, then if anything, change wheels to stick the tires outboard (increasing track width) just enough to get your steering back with leaf springs.
Wasted effort moving the leaf springs inboard that little IMHO.
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Yeah but I WANT to narrow the track width 
Yeah but I WANT to narrow the track width
Why? Make your spring interference problem worse?
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Because I want to tuck the tires back under the fenders. That was my reasoning for making the leaf spring width narrower
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I'm a Land Cruiser purist bro
LOL