Coolbox issue

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Joined
Jan 11, 2022
Threads
16
Messages
361
Location
Houston, TX
So the cool box fan doesn’t work….unless it’s 100deg on the outside thermostat, then it blows like normal.

Is this a sensor issue? I don’t know what the actuator is for the fan, but I can feel the “condenser” is always cold in there, just no circulation.

Now it’s nice that it works when it’s hot af down here in Houston, but I’d love to have it function all the time, but not enough to disassemble the interior.

Where can I find the diagram and electrical for this?

Thanks in advance
 
Forgot to add, if below 100F, I’m the fan goes back off…. So I’m leaning toward sensor
 
Forgot to add, if below 100F, I’m the fan goes back off…. So I’m leaning toward sensor
The fan should always be running if the cool-box is powered. I replaced the fan on mine, but it was a nightmare…
The fan itself can be had for around $35… But that is not a job I want to ever do again.
 
The fan should always be running if the cool-box is powered. I replaced the fan on mine, but it was a nightmare…
The fan itself can be had for around $35… But that is not a job I want to ever do again.
I hear ya, thats my issue. The fan only turns on at 100F, like clockwork. I’m absolutely not pulling the interior apart for this, but I’m convinced its something simple
 

Alright, I’ve now earned my ‘Coolbox Fan Swap’ Badge and here is my synopsis. Like many others, I apologize for tackling this job and not doing a proper write up with pictures.

1. Read this thread a few times for encouragement, it’s the best place to start.
2. Go ahead and get a 2A fuse (I’ll explain later.)
3. Order the fan and also the Neiko screwdriver set to get the illusive screw that’s upside down and impossible to reach. I think we need to name this screw. Illusive Screw?
4. I would slot yourself 3-6 hours to tackle this job. I think it took me about 5 hours start to finish. If I did the job again I could likely be done In 1.5. Is it a pain in the ass? Kind-of. You spend most of your time trying to decipher the next step. That is the main issue. If there was a proper video or write up on how to do the job, it would be much faster.
5. Watch a video on how to remove the center console on an LX570 or Land Cruiser. The good news is, that will get you started. The bad news, most of them are for swapping head units. So they will start going up the dash instead of down to the console box.
6. This is random but just something to note. When you open the console and are looking at the cool box, there is a rubber type gasket that runs around the box on the top. There are two screws hidden in that gasket on the side closest to the front of the car. They are about 2” in on either side. Simply just pull the gasket back and you’ll get access. This took me 30 minutes to figure out.
7. The Illusive Screw. Now when you get to this screw it’s under the two condenser lines towards the bottom of the cool box. You’ve got to really get all that protective foam out of the way to find it. I recommend rolling the driver seat all the way forward, lean it all the way forward, and make it go as high towards the ceiling as possible. Bend your nemco screwdriver just like the other user did in the previous posting. Now here is my added advices. Climb in the rear passenger side door. Lay on your back with your head towards the drivers side. Slide your left shoulder into the floorboard and you’ll have the perfect angle to attack this screw. It wasn’t only challenging to get the driver on it, but to also see it. Once I got upside down and was able to see under it; I was good to go. I feel like I’ve maybe earned a badge or gotten bonus points, because I put the screw back in. Yes, I actually got it back in and tightened it up. And yes, I dropped it 3 times and had to fish it out with a magnet all 3 times.

B. Here are where things get interesting and I have some potentially great news for you. I spent the better part of 3.5 hours pulling this entire assembly apart. Got my new fan installed and simply had to try it before putting everything back together. So I get everything plugged back up, fire up the truck, press the power button, and I’m sure you all see where this is going. Yep, fan did not kick on. At this point I cut the plug off my old fan, strip the casting off the wire, and press the wires on my battery terminal. Fan spins like an absolute champ. Now I know I have an issue other than the actual fan motor.

Here is where step 2 comes into play. On the drivers side bottom left corner of the cool box, there is a large amplifier that helps power the fan/cool box. Attached to that amplifier is a 2A fuse. I just so happened to stumble across this after about 3 minutes of trying to diagnose what my problem was. Popped the fuse out and sure enough it was blown. Went and grabbed a .99 cent fuse and bada bing, fan fired right up.

Im fairly certain you can reach this fuse by just pulling the 2nd row seating AC controller panel out. Pull it straight to you and it pops right off.

If not, you’ll have to get that drivers side plastic panel off that runs down the side of the drivers seat to the floor.

God speed to anyone tackling this job and don’t be the guy that spends countless hours and money to fix a problem that could’ve costed 99 cents and 10 minutes.

RIP My Sunday. Now excuse me while I go grab a cold beer out of my cool box.



will update quote later, just stumbled on this and saving
 
I hear ya, thats my issue. The fan only turns on at 100F, like clockwork. I’m absolutely not pulling the interior apart for this, but I’m convinced its something simple

Good news is that if that fan works…at all…its not likely needing replacement.

Trick is figuring out what’s fsiled. Coolant runs directly tubes within the console from the AC system, so if no fan is blowing, I’m curious what’s happening to that coolant and its components.
 
Good news is that if that fan works…at all…its not likely needing replacement.

Trick is figuring out what’s fsiled. Coolant runs directly tubes within the console from the AC system, so if no fan is blowing, I’m curious what’s happening to that coolant and its components.
Agreed. Inner wall toward dash is very cold to the touch, so there is actually some ambient cooling that goes on in there. Not sure that would have any adverse effect if its just an inline coil with a fan, but I'm no HVAC tech.

Temp should be over 100 I'd guess this afternoon, I expect the fan to be kicked on once I start her up. Not convinced the fuse replacement would help me, what I really want is access to the dash diagram. Is this available online or...?
 
found one and now I’ve changed my mind on the 2A fuse…going to try this tomorrow, I’d appreciate cold beverages in this heat
image.jpeg
 
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