Coolant vanishing

[jgranthevagrant]

Original head was going to require about $400 worth of work, with planing, new guides, and then the whole deck height problem. For that cost, it made more sense to get one from ENGBLDR and stick with stock head thickness. I got a metal guide from ENGNBLDR but when I installed it, the boltheads made me nervous, so I went back to the plastic guide, which will get chewed, but not break the chain. The last time I did this, I used a metal guide, and my timing chain broke a few months after that. Not necessarily because of the guide, but I never saw the engine again to look inside.

 

[jynx]

With the metal guides you have to source new hardware. The OE hardware is shouldered to keep you from crushing the plastic guides, that same shoulder keeps the bolt from seating on the metal guide rail.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

That sounds about right. I was in the middle of putting it back together,, so I did not want to wait 2 weeks for more parts. Maybe next time.

 

[jynx]

For future reference, I think any M8x1.25 x 15+/-mm will work, might be M6. I think I used an couple of oil pan bolts when I did mine.

How do you like the new head? Always heard good things about Ted's parts and I have used a bunch of his stuff in various builds, but never seen one of his heads.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

head seems fine. Everything bolted up perfectly. The metal seems a bit softer than the Toyota head, but I might be imagining this. I worked in a machine shop for three years, mostly with aluminum parts. If this top end lasts more than 30 000 ks, I will be quite happy. Probably the clutch will be the next engine issue.

Engnbldr was very good in terms of organization and service. Shipping to Canada was a bit expensive. Next time I will drive down to Portland and pick stuff up.