Just picked up a 1987 FJ60 with 174,000 miles over the weekend (not that I needed it ) What should the compression be when performing a dry compression check? It came up at 160.
thanks
That number sounds good, but more importantly, are all six within 10lbs? That's more important than the actual compression, down to a point, of course.
GL
Ed
10% would give you a little more lattitude. I think you're right.
So if your highest is 160 then the lowest could be 144 and every other cylider should fall between.
Ed...I stand corrected...Long
minimum compression spec on the '60's 2F is 114 if memory serves me correctly, with a 10% discrepancy between cylinders O.K. -- sounds like you've got compression for days
To raise compression on my FJ40 2F during the rebuild I decked the block and Shaved the head as well as a new cam shaft RV grind.
With our doing a complete rebuild you could do a valve job, have the head shave and replace the cam shaft with on with a RV grind.
I stand ready to be corrected, but...If you check compression and get whatever reading then you squirt oil in that same cylinder and the number goes up, you have a ring/cylinder wall problem that will NOT be corrected with a valve job. If the number does not change, you MIGHT help compression with a renewed head, ie valve job., surfacing, head gasket. However, renewing the head with a weak lower end is asking for trouble, IMHO. Lower compression will affect your performance, but if all your #'s are within tolerable limits and you don't have any other glaring problems, do the whole thing at the same time. In other words, all things remaining equal, most parts wear out at the same pace, doing a valve job will only put more strain on other worn parts.
Hope this makes sense. If you don't have a steady miss, don't obsess on the compression #'s.
Ed Lonh
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.